how do you start a diesel with no glow plugs???

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 03 Jan 2005, 14:09

3 Litre could be cranked as well! - used to start it that way when we needed to charge the spare battery while camping!
Also seemed to have more power from the starter than the engine! 1 carb for 6 cylinders - presumably end cylinders didn't do a lot!
jeremy

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 03 Jan 2005, 15:26

If I remember rightly it was a big SU carb. It used to do a ton without struggling. Never tried taking it further. Too much petrol wasted.

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 03 Jan 2005, 20:45

Mine did 15MPG thrashed or nursed. Used to eat Cavaliers on the old A20. Fond memories of a big heavy car that was a joy to drive.

IanR · Post by **IanR** » 03 Jan 2005, 20:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by paranoid

Easy start is only really safe on huge engines<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I'd dispute that, having been told by HGV guys that once you begin using the stuff, you find thereafter that the engine won't start without it. I's as if the engine becomes addicted to it.
Never let that stuff near ANY engine. [}:)]

bikeboyz · Post by **bikeboyz** » 04 Jan 2005, 00:10

Having the 504 which refused to start due to a combination of duff glow plugs and a dodgy glow plug relay, a quick wiff of easystart pushed the old girl in to life. The XD2 is a much more agriculturial lump than the XUD. All fixed now with new relay and plugs.
Having various vintage lorries and tractors in the family's growing collection does pose some interesting cold morning starts. The tractors prefer easystart, but a trick with a 4 cyclinder Standard diesel MF35 was simply squirting derv down the air intake with a spray bottle whilst cranking.

Doc · Post by **Doc** » 06 Jan 2005, 16:07

Last week I changed the glowplugs on my 2.1 XM TD. I agree it is a pig of a job changing the plug nearest the pump but as a tip keep one of those magnetic pick up probes to hand just in case the small nut on the end of the plug drops. Also, only use an angled ring spanner as a flat one will not fit. The best spanner to use is a ratchet type with a wobble head.
I'm not sure about the Xantia engine but on the 2.1 TD lump, there is a coolant pipe and elbow casting bolted to the head with two Hex head bolts. This obstructs the last plug, so carefully loosen off both hex bolts and with magnetic pick up holding on to upper bolt (highest bolt)remove it. You can then pivot the assembly away from the plug on the remaining bolt. (Don't remove this bolt-only loosen it) You will lose a small amount of coolant but it will improve greatly access to the glowplug.
When I first got the car I went to change all 4 plugs only to find all four had been rounded off by previous ham fisted attempts by previous owners/garage mechanics. Had to use all manner of tools to remove them and on one plug I had to mig weld a big nut to it just to get leverage. Must have been a gorilla with a Stillson who originally fitted them![}:)]
Another tip is to use copper based grease on the threads and observe the torque figures when tightening. As glowplugs are a tapered seat they only need an eighth of a turn to seal. Any tighter and the internal elements can be damaged.
Doc

Doc · Post by **Doc** » 06 Jan 2005, 16:09

My 1993 Transit diesel doesn't have glowplugs either. It uses Stanadyne slimtip injectors and a preheating coil. It always starts 'on the button' even in the coldest weather!
Just been reading in Car Mechanics about the next generation of diesel injectors that combine fuel injector with mini-pump AND inlet valve! Very compact and efficient...and very expensive.
Doc