Replacing Alternator belt on ZX 1.9D

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 16 Nov 2004, 19:27

Hi everyone, I'm stuck trying to replace the alternator belt which broke. All the allen bolts appear to be rounded off so I can't loosen the adjuster to fit a new one. I've tried removing the power steering pump and alternator to get access to the tensioner assembly, but the same story there. I'm out of ideas. Anyone got a solution?

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 16 Nov 2004, 19:41

Rounded nut heads- an absolute horror!!!
Can you get a mole wrench clamped tightly on to the bolt-heads?
If so, some heat or penetrating fluid first may help: dont use WD40, its a lubricant, not an easing fluid. Plus-Gas works well.
The other alternative, if you have accsess to a Mig, is to weld a nut onto the rounded head, and this normally works in these situations- the heat helps loosen everything and you have something to grip on.
Failing all this, its down to hard work with a file putting a couple of flats on the bolt-head to accept a small spanner or grip.
Your final option is to grind off the bolt-heads, which would at least release the alternator, then get the adjuster assembly out and replace the remains everything with a nut and bolt.
Whatever, its going to be fun, and I'm glad its not me!!!![}:)]

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 16 Nov 2004, 19:48

I've tried my favourite solution of plus-gas, going to try my butane blow torch later. One question, these aren't torx heads on the ZX are they ???

Post by **RichardW** » 16 Nov 2004, 20:42

AFAIK they will be allen. The adjuster on the bottom should not be too much drama as it should be fairly easy to cut away. The two mounting studs are bad news. The one outside the tensioner wheel is bad, but the one inside has got to be v.bad.... I have just this fear about tackling the cambelt on our ZX TD. The only thing I can think is you will need to cut the tensioner wheel away to get access to the central bolt and then try and get them out with stilsons or one of those gorilla grip things that is supposed to get hold of anything. Why PSA decided to fit these with allen screws and not proper hex heads I have no idea! If you really can't get them out, then I can see the heads having to be cut off, the engine dropped a bit at the RH end and the old studs drilled out. 'mare.
I suppose you might be able to cut the tensioner away so that you are left with just a bit of plate behind the bolt head, and then drive that bit of plate out with a big hammer, which should release the tension on the bolts making them removeable with little or no tools.
Either way there's going to be lots of cutting and swearing

((
Let us know if you think of anything better / less drastic....
Bad luck!

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 16 Nov 2004, 21:25

It is a nightmare isn't it???? I had one thought, use Plus-Gas and blow torch a couple of times, get a slightly oversized torx bit on the end of an impact driver, give it a few whacks, use Plus-gas and heat again, few more whacks with impact driver, repeat until it works.
Any thoughts on that solution?
If that doesn't work, drive car to remote spot, light butane blow torch and leave in car. Run away. Fast. Express complete surprise when Police visit house. "last time I saw it, it was in my drive"

Post by **RichardW** » 16 Nov 2004, 21:43

Percussion, heat, release fluid, and patience will help. A torx bit hammered in is probably a good idea, as the splines may well bite in the rounded socket cap. Isn't going to be easy what ever....
Insurance co's rightly very suspicious of car fires - especially ones that start in passenger compartment. And there's your NCD to think off - taking the engine out will probably be cheaper! Still, plenty of satisfaction going down that route!

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 16 Nov 2004, 23:04

Looks like I'll have to be patient, not loose the rag etc. I'll go and buy a new set of torx and allen bits and using plus gas and heat and some hammering, maybe I'll beat the bastard into submission. Then sell it. And then buy another one LOL.

David W · Post by **David W** » 17 Nov 2004, 01:06

Stuart,
What a pig, if these don't turn first time they are always a stress. Like you are thinking my no.1 route when this happens is to sacrifice whatever bit is just oversize and will hammer in with a lump hammer...you usually only get one chance, if this attempt spins it's drills or the grinder.
I think the Torx bit is favourite. However what I have also had success with is to get the next size up hex bit and grind a slight taper on the end flats, wack this in blooming hard and go for it.
A tip for anytime you go to undo one of these hex socket headed bolts (before it gets rounded) is to put a bar end against the top of the bolt head and wack that very hard with the lump hammer. The "flattening" effect of the blow acts to slightly close up the hex recess as well as jarring the whole bolt. You may now need to hammer in your correct hex bit but at least you have given it every chance with a tight well fitting recess.
Good luck.
David

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 17 Nov 2004, 01:58

Good idea that, I managed to get the bottom locknut out, the one inside the tensioner is the pig now. Mebbe I can take the one I got out up to the tool shop and measure up the next best size to use on the one left in. Whacking the front to tighten it up is an idea, as is the idea of interference fitting the next size up allen key.

Stuart205d · Post by **Stuart205d** » 17 Nov 2004, 19:44

Hurray !! Got the lock nut out of the centre of the tensioner wheel. Impact driver with allen key did it. Tried freeing the adjuster nut which sheered off. New belt is on with just the two locknuts holding it, which will be adequate, had to tension the belt the old fashioned way but it works and I have my sanity back !!!!