Duff glow plugs??
Moderator: RichardW
Duff glow plugs??
How do you know when you need to change your glow plugs? My Xantia (126K) TD starts from cold only if I push the accelerator at the same time as turning the key. The car starts with a coud of white smoke and is then fine. If I don't use the accelerator then it takes 3 or 4 tries before starting.
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At that mileage the chances are that the glowplugs do require replacement. What you can do temporarily is to turn the ignition on and allow the glowplug light to illuminate, then 'time out' switch off without starting. Do this twice, then on the third go start the engine after the glowplug light has gone out. If this cures your starting difficulties then replace the glowplugs.
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Ideally you'd want to test the plugs somehow, but to test them requires almost as much dismantling as it takes to replace them[:(!]
Did all mine yesterday as I was experiencing the same symptoms as you describe.
Access looks horrible but when you get down to it, it just requires lots of patience, and it goes back together easier than it comes apart.
Beware the small coolant pipe above the glowplug behind the injection pump, I've heard it mentioned on this forum that the pipe can get broken if your spanner slips.
I removed the air ducting from intercooler to inlet manifold, the 1" breather hose between the dipstick and the air filter hose, 3 metal brackets, disconnected the fuel line from the injection pump, removed the fragile coolant pipe mentioned above. After doing all that, access is much better.
I'd definately recommend one of those telescopic magnet-on-a-stick tools for retrieving everything that you drop, and a 6mm *ball ended* allen key about 150mm long would have been perfect for removing the coolant pipe but I didn't have one and fianlly managed it with a standard one plus some cursing.
Andy
Did all mine yesterday as I was experiencing the same symptoms as you describe.
Access looks horrible but when you get down to it, it just requires lots of patience, and it goes back together easier than it comes apart.
Beware the small coolant pipe above the glowplug behind the injection pump, I've heard it mentioned on this forum that the pipe can get broken if your spanner slips.
I removed the air ducting from intercooler to inlet manifold, the 1" breather hose between the dipstick and the air filter hose, 3 metal brackets, disconnected the fuel line from the injection pump, removed the fragile coolant pipe mentioned above. After doing all that, access is much better.
I'd definately recommend one of those telescopic magnet-on-a-stick tools for retrieving everything that you drop, and a 6mm *ball ended* allen key about 150mm long would have been perfect for removing the coolant pipe but I didn't have one and fianlly managed it with a standard one plus some cursing.
Andy
I had glowplug problems at the begining of this year so i replaced them with some from my local spares shop at a very good price!!MISTAKE.I still had poblems starting so thought it was something else.I was then advised to change the plugs again for BERU which i was advised were the best.I did this and now the car starts first time every time.I took the cheap plugs back to where i had bought them and had them tested.Three duff out of four,money back.BERU are available from GSF.Moral is try and save pennies create extra work.
Xantia 1993 1.9td sx 131000 miles.
hope this is of some help.
Brian
Xantia 1993 1.9td sx 131000 miles.
hope this is of some help.
Brian
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Totally and absolutely agree with the above.
If you can remove all the wiring to your plugs (insulate the free end), you can test them in situ by connecting each plug in turn to battery + with an old car type ammeter in series. A good plug will draw about 25A, quickly dropping (about 2 secs) to about 7A. Change any that fail this test, use coppaslip on the threads but not the taper, preferably torque but don't overtighten them.
rotodiesel.
If you can remove all the wiring to your plugs (insulate the free end), you can test them in situ by connecting each plug in turn to battery + with an old car type ammeter in series. A good plug will draw about 25A, quickly dropping (about 2 secs) to about 7A. Change any that fail this test, use coppaslip on the threads but not the taper, preferably torque but don't overtighten them.
rotodiesel.
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1982 GSA Pallas - on road April - September.
1997 ZX 1.9D Dimension. - x 1
Clean all the tags on the wiring and smear with Vaseline
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jshodgson</i>
Have just ordered 4 new Beru plugs from GSF. Will get "busy" shortly. Thanks.
Ps
Any more handy tips or advice on fitting my new plugs is most welcome!
James
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jshodgson</i>
Have just ordered 4 new Beru plugs from GSF. Will get "busy" shortly. Thanks.
Ps
Any more handy tips or advice on fitting my new plugs is most welcome!
James
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
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As someone said above it's that time of year. I have a set to replace tomorrow on a Xantia which will make the 4th 1.9TD glowplug set in the past week!
If you are DIYing and want to do the minimum here's some ideas...
If the car has been starting well and just now started to chug you are likely to have one u/s plug, if it has been chugging for a while and just got near impossible to start it is likely you will have two plugs gone.
To test take off the electrical connection from the right hand plug as you face the engine. Test the plug terminal resistance to earth of about 1.1. Then do the same with the next two plugs along in turn. Finally test the 4th plug (hidden one) by leaving the supply wire connected and testing through that (making sure none of the exposed terminals touch anything to mess up the reading).
This way you stand the greatest chance of getting to the faulty plug before struggling behind the pump.
Ideally of course replace all the plugs anyway.
The specially bent 12mm ring spanner is the way to go for that 4th plug, it happens between the half dozen I have one usually has the right angle.
Oh and a small tip for not losing the 8mm terminal nuts. WD40 spray the terminals first so the nuts spin freely once loosened. Then get a long very thin screwdriver, or length of stiff wire, and press it against the head of the glowplug terminal thread as you finally turn the nut off. Then as the nut comes loose pull it up the screwdriver shaft or wire with your finger and lift away.
This is hard to describe but works really well, just reverse the procedure to replace them.
HTH
David
If you are DIYing and want to do the minimum here's some ideas...
If the car has been starting well and just now started to chug you are likely to have one u/s plug, if it has been chugging for a while and just got near impossible to start it is likely you will have two plugs gone.
To test take off the electrical connection from the right hand plug as you face the engine. Test the plug terminal resistance to earth of about 1.1. Then do the same with the next two plugs along in turn. Finally test the 4th plug (hidden one) by leaving the supply wire connected and testing through that (making sure none of the exposed terminals touch anything to mess up the reading).
This way you stand the greatest chance of getting to the faulty plug before struggling behind the pump.
Ideally of course replace all the plugs anyway.
The specially bent 12mm ring spanner is the way to go for that 4th plug, it happens between the half dozen I have one usually has the right angle.
Oh and a small tip for not losing the 8mm terminal nuts. WD40 spray the terminals first so the nuts spin freely once loosened. Then get a long very thin screwdriver, or length of stiff wire, and press it against the head of the glowplug terminal thread as you finally turn the nut off. Then as the nut comes loose pull it up the screwdriver shaft or wire with your finger and lift away.
This is hard to describe but works really well, just reverse the procedure to replace them.
HTH
David
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BTW I noticed Dave Bamber said on another thread about a plug that was glowing but not all the way down its length....and that it was best to take the plugs out to check properly.
He's right, my method above is quick and most likely to get the right result. However if all plugs seem to have the correct resistance and you know it is chugging on start then out with them all and visually test with a battery and jump lead.
Put them somewhere safe to cool though!
David
He's right, my method above is quick and most likely to get the right result. However if all plugs seem to have the correct resistance and you know it is chugging on start then out with them all and visually test with a battery and jump lead.
Put them somewhere safe to cool though!
David