Xantia key
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia key
Does anyone know if its possible to repair a Xantia key? The one on the Xantia I just bought (it has ONE button, not two) is missing the rubber covering, exposing the circuit inside - perhaps someone has a bit of DIY in this regard. Spare keys of the remote type aren't available in my country. I don't know if the remote facility on mine works, although someone told me it might if I change the battery - but oh, that exposed circuit...
Hi jemboyd
I've repaired my old single button case, a few times in the past. I used to have a 1993 Xantia LX 8v. When I bought the car the key fob was in a terrible stste, only worked sometimes, and the rubber covering the button was very worn. I repaired the circuit board with a very fine soldering iron ( dry joints ), which cured the fault. I used a bicycle patch, cut to fit, glued in place with a thin layer of normal Araldite. Leave to set for at least 24 hours. You will find a small lip that the rubber cover sits in, which helps you to mould the rubber to size. This usually lasted around 6 to 9 months depending on use. A few tips - 1. Observe the battery polarities and remove the batteries before soldering. Take care not to bridge any connections. Check and check again with a magnifying glass. DO NOT overheat the board. 2. Insert a small piece of sponge under the rubber cover before you glue the cover in place. This keeps the button 'unpressed', as it were, and pushes the rubber back up after use. Trial and error will guide you to the correct size. 3. The case takes kindly to Super glue, but you have to be confident you have got it right, since it sets so quick. 4. The best bicycle patches are the ones with the 'feathered' edges if you can get them. Hope this helps. Have fun.
I've repaired my old single button case, a few times in the past. I used to have a 1993 Xantia LX 8v. When I bought the car the key fob was in a terrible stste, only worked sometimes, and the rubber covering the button was very worn. I repaired the circuit board with a very fine soldering iron ( dry joints ), which cured the fault. I used a bicycle patch, cut to fit, glued in place with a thin layer of normal Araldite. Leave to set for at least 24 hours. You will find a small lip that the rubber cover sits in, which helps you to mould the rubber to size. This usually lasted around 6 to 9 months depending on use. A few tips - 1. Observe the battery polarities and remove the batteries before soldering. Take care not to bridge any connections. Check and check again with a magnifying glass. DO NOT overheat the board. 2. Insert a small piece of sponge under the rubber cover before you glue the cover in place. This keeps the button 'unpressed', as it were, and pushes the rubber back up after use. Trial and error will guide you to the correct size. 3. The case takes kindly to Super glue, but you have to be confident you have got it right, since it sets so quick. 4. The best bicycle patches are the ones with the 'feathered' edges if you can get them. Hope this helps. Have fun.
Thank you, Lozian and Spanners, for your advice. A few questions - my batteries have already been removed - how do I know the correct polarity, and how does one get at the circuit board - I was looking at it the other day and got out the panel that the little screw holds, but no access to circuit board...
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I would agree with jemboyd as regards battery polarity. Positive (+) side up, that is with the spring pushing down on the + side, and the negative side (-) down. Both batteries are orientated the same way, one on top of the other, if you have two. Circuit board just pulls out after you get the end off and after removal of small screw. Take care that LED lines up with hole, when you then push circuit board back in.
Edited by - lozian on 10 Sep 2002 18:45:11
Edited by - lozian on 10 Sep 2002 18:45:11