Well it appears my clutch has started to slip at 108K miles (I got the car slightly cheaper than advertised as I suspected it was on its way out on the test drive).
Can anyone offer advice regards changing ?
Many thanks
James
Clutch replacement Xantia 1.9 TD
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David W
- Posts: 439
- Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
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Jeffers_S13
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 24 Feb 2003, 16:27
Hello David,
Sorry, yes I intend to do it myself, Im working from a Haynes manual and was wondering if anyone has and tips they could offer to make the job go more smoothly ? Can you tell me how long it took you ? sounds like you have a lot of experience. I'll be starting on a Friday afternoon, and working at a steady pace...as usual ![:)]
Is there a workshop manual available from anyone on the forum ? quite new to this one as I only bought the car recently. I have a workshop manual for my 200SX I downloaded from the 200 forum and its very useful for the more involved jobs.
Thanks
James
Sorry, yes I intend to do it myself, Im working from a Haynes manual and was wondering if anyone has and tips they could offer to make the job go more smoothly ? Can you tell me how long it took you ? sounds like you have a lot of experience. I'll be starting on a Friday afternoon, and working at a steady pace...as usual ![:)]
Is there a workshop manual available from anyone on the forum ? quite new to this one as I only bought the car recently. I have a workshop manual for my 200SX I downloaded from the 200 forum and its very useful for the more involved jobs.
Thanks
James
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David W
- Posts: 439
- Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
James,
OK first if possible get an OE clutch kit from Andyspares...you'll know this will fit and it even has the clutch setting tool included. Also buy new driveshaft-transmision oil seals, clutch pivot bushes transmision oil, LHM...plus glycol & soft water if you're taking the rad out.
Follow the Haynes procedure and if I were you I'd write down everything you do and everything you remove on a lined pad then when you re-assemble you can follow the list back up to ensure nothing is missed.
Misc comments...
Removal:
First support the car safely far enough off the ground for there to be space for the gearbox on the floor. Remember to drain the transmission oil to save a mess when the first driveshaft is removed.
Consider removing the radiator to give more room. Also to inspect because the radiator may well be needed at the same time as the clutch.
The gearchange rod balljoints often feel like they will snap before they pop off, they will come (small pivot ends).
Take care to understand the clutch pivot marking procedure and follow it, particularly the second mark after the transmission is puled from the engine.
I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.
You'll need a large stud remover tool to get the engine mount stud out.
Refitting:
Clean up the transmission splines and use appropriate grease sparingly.
Take care to line up the clutch with the supplied tool when fitting to flywheel. Make sure the clutch plate is the right way round.
Take immense care as you bring the transmission to the engine. If the clutch isn't aligned or doesn't want to go on easily it is all too easy to burr the spline ends.
Also at this fitting stage ensure the clutch pivot was set in the correct position and engages correctly with the release bearing (which also has to be set in a certain position).
Those are the main points that come to mind just now.
It is about an 8hr job in the trade with experience and all the tools to hand. You should be OK over a weekend with some help.
David
OK first if possible get an OE clutch kit from Andyspares...you'll know this will fit and it even has the clutch setting tool included. Also buy new driveshaft-transmision oil seals, clutch pivot bushes transmision oil, LHM...plus glycol & soft water if you're taking the rad out.
Follow the Haynes procedure and if I were you I'd write down everything you do and everything you remove on a lined pad then when you re-assemble you can follow the list back up to ensure nothing is missed.
Misc comments...
Removal:
First support the car safely far enough off the ground for there to be space for the gearbox on the floor. Remember to drain the transmission oil to save a mess when the first driveshaft is removed.
Consider removing the radiator to give more room. Also to inspect because the radiator may well be needed at the same time as the clutch.
The gearchange rod balljoints often feel like they will snap before they pop off, they will come (small pivot ends).
Take care to understand the clutch pivot marking procedure and follow it, particularly the second mark after the transmission is puled from the engine.
I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.
You'll need a large stud remover tool to get the engine mount stud out.
Refitting:
Clean up the transmission splines and use appropriate grease sparingly.
Take care to line up the clutch with the supplied tool when fitting to flywheel. Make sure the clutch plate is the right way round.
Take immense care as you bring the transmission to the engine. If the clutch isn't aligned or doesn't want to go on easily it is all too easy to burr the spline ends.
Also at this fitting stage ensure the clutch pivot was set in the correct position and engages correctly with the release bearing (which also has to be set in a certain position).
Those are the main points that come to mind just now.
It is about an 8hr job in the trade with experience and all the tools to hand. You should be OK over a weekend with some help.
David
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Jeffers_S13
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 24 Feb 2003, 16:27
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mipster
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 09 Jan 2003, 00:10
James,
Did you get your clutch changed OK? My xantia needs one and I'm planning to do it myself either this weekend or Easter. Any (more) tips?
David,
Thanks form me for hte tips as well.
<i>I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.</i>
How does this translate to somebody who doesn't have a beam or engine crane?
Mark.
Did you get your clutch changed OK? My xantia needs one and I'm planning to do it myself either this weekend or Easter. Any (more) tips?
David,
Thanks form me for hte tips as well.
<i>I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.</i>
How does this translate to somebody who doesn't have a beam or engine crane?
Mark.
-
mipster
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 09 Jan 2003, 00:10
James,
Did you get your clutch changed OK? My xantia needs one and I'm planning to do it myself either this weekend or Easter. Any (more) tips?
David,
Thanks form me for hte tips as well.
<i>I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.</i>
How does this translate to somebody who doesn't have a beam or engine crane?
Mark.
Did you get your clutch changed OK? My xantia needs one and I'm planning to do it myself either this weekend or Easter. Any (more) tips?
David,
Thanks form me for hte tips as well.
<i>I find it easiest to support the engine with a trolley jack and sling/lower/lift the gearbox from a beam or engine crane.</i>
How does this translate to somebody who doesn't have a beam or engine crane?
Mark.
-
mipster
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 09 Jan 2003, 00:10
Well I've changed the clutch after 190,000 miles, not an easy job and took more like 40 man-hours than 8!
A few notes for others who happen across this thread.
I didn't remove the rad since it's fairly recent.The space wasn't really missed.
Removing the gearbox using a jack is not really possible. a hoist/sling really is needed. I used a beam of wood supported at 1 end by a brick wall and at the other by another piece of wood.
The mounting stud in the gearbox wouldn't come out, even with a large stud remover. Instead you can lower the gearbox a tad to access 2 bolts under the stud and remove the whole mounting.
The pin through the clutch release lever/pivot is a b***h to get out. Remove it before you loosen the gearbox mountings.
I'll reinforce the warnings about the clutch release lever\bearing. The lever needs to be rotated to the right position BEFORE you bring the transmission to the engine.
you'll need hex bits to fit on your torque wrench for tightening gearbox-engine bolts and for fitting the clutch (6 and 8mm perhaps)
Parts List:
Clutch Kit.
Gearbox-driveshaft oil seals
Gearbox oil. Get 3 litres.
clutch pivot bushes (dealer part)
2* lower balljoint nuts.
I also put hydraflush into the hydraulics
I would also get new washers for the gearbox filler and drain plugs. My filler plug washer was welded to the plug.
mipster
A few notes for others who happen across this thread.
I didn't remove the rad since it's fairly recent.The space wasn't really missed.
Removing the gearbox using a jack is not really possible. a hoist/sling really is needed. I used a beam of wood supported at 1 end by a brick wall and at the other by another piece of wood.
The mounting stud in the gearbox wouldn't come out, even with a large stud remover. Instead you can lower the gearbox a tad to access 2 bolts under the stud and remove the whole mounting.
The pin through the clutch release lever/pivot is a b***h to get out. Remove it before you loosen the gearbox mountings.
I'll reinforce the warnings about the clutch release lever\bearing. The lever needs to be rotated to the right position BEFORE you bring the transmission to the engine.
you'll need hex bits to fit on your torque wrench for tightening gearbox-engine bolts and for fitting the clutch (6 and 8mm perhaps)
Parts List:
Clutch Kit.
Gearbox-driveshaft oil seals
Gearbox oil. Get 3 litres.
clutch pivot bushes (dealer part)
2* lower balljoint nuts.
I also put hydraflush into the hydraulics
I would also get new washers for the gearbox filler and drain plugs. My filler plug washer was welded to the plug.
mipster