HOT BX

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lara
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HOT BX

Post by lara »

The orange temp warning light comes on after about 5 miles, red light after about 15, steam, breakdown etc. The radiater is cold except slight heat where pipes go in, which seems to suggest a blockage. I have fitted new thermostat, flushed radiater thoroughly (hosepipe 20 minutes both ways).
Could it be water pump?
Funny thing is you can sit in traffic jams for ages, sit the car on your drive for ages, no orange light, no overheating, only when you drive it overheats.
lara stowers
rustytoba
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Post by rustytoba »

What engine does the car have.
Some of the XU engines had water pump problems and in some cases so can the TU engines .
Let me know
Machra
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Post by Machra »

I have a TZD Turbo and am experiensing the same problem. I have flushed the radiator to no avail. What I would like to know is how can it be the waterpump as water is obviously circulating round as the hoses into the radiator and radiator downpipe are getting hot.<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
What engine does the car have.
Some of the XU engines had water pump problems and in some cases so can the TU engines .
Let me know

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alan s
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Post by alan s »

lara,
Go to page 2 on the "Common problems and fixes" and look at "Motor overheating and losing coolant" as I think you will find the answer there. Added to that you will see I mention intake hose collapsing and to test for this, keep a close eye on the intake hose to the pump and accelerate the motor observing this one particular hose whilst doing so. If the hose is losing its strngth, it will start to suck in under sharp hard acceleration.
Personally I think it will probably turn out to be air which is the plague of every Citroen.
Alan S
David Goddard
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Post by David Goddard »

I assume that the air has been bled from the system. There are three bleed points. Start with the lowest (near the thermostat), then the one at the back of the engine, finally the plastic cap on the right of the radiator. Unless properly bled, there will be a massive pocket of air which will cause serious cooling problems.
lara
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Post by lara »

Hi
Lara again, it certainly sounds like it is air in the system as suggested, it happens when you accelerate sharply.What do I do if the intake hose does collapse, Just fit a new one? Can someone tell me more about the water pump problem, it is a TZD Turbo 1.7 diesel G reg estate with an XU engine?
Can someone also tell me more about where the bleed valves are? I have found the thermostat one ( allen key) the plastic plug on the radiater, but cannot find any more?
How do I then go about filling and bleeding?
Thanks Lara
lara stowers
David Goddard
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Post by David Goddard »

Hi Lara,
Bleeding -
Wait until the engine is cool.
Remove radiator cap and fill to the top.
Leave the cap off.
Unscrew the alen screw a bit until coolant runs out. Retighten.
Find the next allen screw which is on a metal pipe running transversly across the back of the engine (on the level with the cylinder head to block joint).
Unscrew and let coolant flow out. Retighten
Give the plastic plug on the RH of the radiator a 1/4 turn. If cooalnt doesn't flow out, top up via the radiator cap.
Replace radiator cap.
Job done - 5 minutes total!!
alan s
RIP 2010
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Post by alan s »

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>What do I do if the intake hose does collapse, Just fit a new one?
lara stowers
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That's about the safest bet. The other way is to wind up a thin brazing rod like a spring inside the hose although a lot of intake hoses these days already have that fitted.
Alan S
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