Bx16v cam belt

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stevo
Posts: 10
Joined: 19 May 2002, 15:09
Location: United Kingdom
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Bx16v cam belt

Post by stevo »

Hi Im about to change the cam belt on my 16v. Having consulted the haynes bible,Im concerned about the bit that says "have tension checked by main dealer".
Is this really needed?
I have a tool in work called a clavis meter that measures the tension on ford timing belts. It measures in hertz.very basically you place a u shaped sensor over the belt then tap the belt with a small rod,it then measures the vibration.
I am unable to get the hertz readings for the 16v belt. any ideas where i might get this data?
Thanks steve.
stevo
alan s
RIP 2010
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Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
Location: Australia
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x 6

Post by alan s »

Stevo,
Over the years, I've just about driven everyone to dispair with the questions I've asked and the answers I've found on this subject.
I did mine a little while ago and the only reason I can see for taking it to a main dealer is so that he can collect some money; almost like a game of Monopoly - "Pay a two hundred pounds and go to Jail" <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> There are a couple of tricks associated with it that need to be observed.
Firstly the right hand tensioner must be tightened first. Set to maximum position; the official Citroen manual states words to the effect that it is often the case that this tensioner, when set at its maximum will not read a loading of 19 Seems (a proprietry measurement they use) but just ignore that as it obviously isn't important. (That mystifies me too)Then set the left hand tensioner.
The sentence below is an important point that most don't mention and explains why some owners who have DIY this job have had problems getting the tensions right;
The tensioners MUST be adjusted in an ANTI - CLOCKWISE direction!!! The reason being that this controls the position the tensioner makes contact with the belt and can increase/decrease the distance between the LH tensioner and the water pump at one end and the LH cam pulley at the other.
For safety and space, remove the radiator, disconnect the accelerator cable at the engine end and move out the road. Jack up the car & place on axle stands and try to use a gantry to raise the motor as opposed to a jack to lift it.
New water pump is a MUST. Check the tensioner centres (bearings) and if any sign of roughness or wear, replace them. Use only Dayco brand belt as it has a proven track record.
Tools required to do the job are:
2 locating pins for cam sockets & one for crank.
3-6-7 mm Allen keys.
6mm Allen Key socket with 1/2" drive
22mm Hexagonal socket (Impact type)
8mm square steel about 9" long with last 25mm bent at right angles.
10mm socket & ratchet
Tension wrench.
When installed, the longest run of the belt (right hand side) will turn through 45 degrees if turned with the thumb & forefinger. It should take a Saturday afternoon to do the first one and about 2 hours whenever you do it in the future due to the experience factor.
As regards the ability to test the belt with a tension checker, I would suggest that whoever came up with that one was either a comedian or a contortionist - I can't see that there's enough room to do it. If the engine was out of the car, then it "may" be something I'd do just out of academic interest. Apart from that, I'd suggest that most dealers would no longer have a tension checker, most probably wouldn't know how to use it and those left probably wouldn't bother. That may not dter some from charging you for doing the job though <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Using what is referred to as "good workshop practices" is the accepted way of fitting and adjusting I've found through friends and contacts I have within the trade.
Trust that answers your questions on this.
Alan S
stevo
Posts: 10
Joined: 19 May 2002, 15:09
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars:

Post by stevo »

Alan,
Thanks very much you highlited some points that never occured to me.
The mighty god "Haynes" couldnt have explained it better.
Alas I do not have access to a hoist so its gonna have to be a trolley jack.
Many thanks
Steve <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
stevo
alan s
RIP 2010
Posts: 2542
Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
Location: Australia
My Cars:
x 6

Post by alan s »

Stevo,
The jack doesn't make it impossible, it's just soooo much more convenient with the hoist/gantry. Nothing like being able to push & pull at a motor without the worry of it dropping with a big thud!!!
Alan S
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