Renault 21 Savanna Head Gasket
Moderator: RichardW
Renault 21 Savanna Head Gasket
What parts do i need to replace a damaged head gasket on my renault 21 savanna (1995cc non-turbo)? Where can i get them from?
Advice welcomed!
Simon Ruff
Advice welcomed!
Simon Ruff
From GSF on-line shop.
R11103 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 1.7 15.50 Add
R11110 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 1.9D 17.75 Add
R11118 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 19D; 3 NOTCH 19.00 Add
R11116 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 2.0 12V 17.50 Add
R11119 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 2.1D/TD 15.75 Add
R11121 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 D/TD 3 NOTCH 16.00 Add
R11404 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 1.7 30.50 Add
R11412 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.0 (INC HEAD GASKET) 44.00 Add
R11416 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.1D/TD 24.90 Add
R11414 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.2 12V (INC GSKT) 49.50 Add
I'd suggest the "CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET" as being the best option as this will include all other gaskets, seal and/or "O" rings likely to be needed for the job and normally works out much cheaper than buying them as individual items.
Alan S
R11103 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 1.7 15.50 Add
R11110 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 1.9D 17.75 Add
R11118 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 19D; 3 NOTCH 19.00 Add
R11116 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 2.0 12V 17.50 Add
R11119 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 2.1D/TD 15.75 Add
R11121 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET R21 D/TD 3 NOTCH 16.00 Add
R11404 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 1.7 30.50 Add
R11412 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.0 (INC HEAD GASKET) 44.00 Add
R11416 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.1D/TD 24.90 Add
R11414 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET R21 2.2 12V (INC GSKT) 49.50 Add
I'd suggest the "CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SET" as being the best option as this will include all other gaskets, seal and/or "O" rings likely to be needed for the job and normally works out much cheaper than buying them as individual items.
Alan S
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Simon17</i>
i've been told that it's necessary to replace the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets when renewing the head gasket. Are these likely to be included in the Cylinder Head Gasket Set?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The terminology on GSF could leave a bit to be desired although unfortunately these days it would seem "in" sayings take precedence over accurate descriptions.[:D] These sets used to be called "VRS" which was for "Valve regrind Sets." and yes they did include all gaskets required for the job such as intake & exhaust manifolds plus a heap more.
As arry_b has suggested, get the head checked for flatness and skimmed if necessary. I usually just send the head to a decent mechine shop with instructions to "cut seats, face valves & test head for level & eveness." Ask which seals/"O" rings they require & take them from the VRS set & send in with the head. These should include valve stem seals, gally ends plate gaskets etc.
As regards the sleeves; to retain into position, cut pieces of pipe that will fit over the headbolts and sit washers ot big nuts at the bottom so as to hold the sleeves into position. Tighten to just beyond finger tightness. <b>Don't</b> turn the engine over after the head as been removed so as to reduce the risk of the sleeves moving & unseating the sleeve liners. Also, check to see if the head bolts are the "stretchy" type & if so, they <b>must be replaced to remove any risk of inaccurate tensioning and/or failure.</b>
Hope that is some help to you; not a hard job, just needs to be done systematically.
Alan S
i've been told that it's necessary to replace the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets when renewing the head gasket. Are these likely to be included in the Cylinder Head Gasket Set?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The terminology on GSF could leave a bit to be desired although unfortunately these days it would seem "in" sayings take precedence over accurate descriptions.[:D] These sets used to be called "VRS" which was for "Valve regrind Sets." and yes they did include all gaskets required for the job such as intake & exhaust manifolds plus a heap more.
As arry_b has suggested, get the head checked for flatness and skimmed if necessary. I usually just send the head to a decent mechine shop with instructions to "cut seats, face valves & test head for level & eveness." Ask which seals/"O" rings they require & take them from the VRS set & send in with the head. These should include valve stem seals, gally ends plate gaskets etc.
As regards the sleeves; to retain into position, cut pieces of pipe that will fit over the headbolts and sit washers ot big nuts at the bottom so as to hold the sleeves into position. Tighten to just beyond finger tightness. <b>Don't</b> turn the engine over after the head as been removed so as to reduce the risk of the sleeves moving & unseating the sleeve liners. Also, check to see if the head bolts are the "stretchy" type & if so, they <b>must be replaced to remove any risk of inaccurate tensioning and/or failure.</b>
Hope that is some help to you; not a hard job, just needs to be done systematically.
Alan S
The engine has removable wet cylinder liners, says Haynes. However, these are sealed in the crankcase by a flange and o-ring.
Would i be correct in saying that the essence of the procedure is:
1) remove cylinder head
2) replace cylinder head gasket + inlet and exhaust valve gaskets
3) replace cylinder head ?
Now i'm wondering if the cylinder head bolts need to be replaced as well. It doesn't mention it in Haynes, anyone know?
Would i be correct in saying that the essence of the procedure is:
1) remove cylinder head
2) replace cylinder head gasket + inlet and exhaust valve gaskets
3) replace cylinder head ?
Now i'm wondering if the cylinder head bolts need to be replaced as well. It doesn't mention it in Haynes, anyone know?
If the head tightning procedure is along the lines of "tighten headbolts to **** psi, then a further 120 degrees" or something along that line, then they are stretch bolts which should be replaced.
This is the procedure used with stretch bolts & as the name implied, they are stretched and hence the reason to replace them. They are usually a fairly inexpensive item.
Alan S
This is the procedure used with stretch bolts & as the name implied, they are stretched and hence the reason to replace them. They are usually a fairly inexpensive item.
Alan S
Try www.screwfix.com for a torque wrench.
They do a reasonable one (TUV approved)for about £11.
Yes that IS cheap!
They do a reasonable one (TUV approved)for about £11.
Yes that IS cheap!
I take it you've got the gadget to measure the degrees of stretch on the headbolts after they've been tensioned?
Also, have you got a decent light (lead light & spotlight) to give illumination where you're working as well as to poke a bit of light into those hard to get at places.
Apart from that; I've got a tool kit that would sink a battleship and there's always <b>something</b> I always have to get partway through.
I'd say at this stage, you're ready to go.[;)]
Alan S [:)]
Also, have you got a decent light (lead light & spotlight) to give illumination where you're working as well as to poke a bit of light into those hard to get at places.
Apart from that; I've got a tool kit that would sink a battleship and there's always <b>something</b> I always have to get partway through.
I'd say at this stage, you're ready to go.[;)]
Alan S [:)]
well , I don't know what a savanna is [ I live in france so I wouldn't ]
I have a renault trafic 1987 based eriba motor home . EXACTLY right for what I want and nobody now makes anything to replace it ; at 90K Km it's not exactly worn out .
there is only one problem for me : it has a low compression [8.0]
1995 engine which only gives 80 bhp with carb & electronic ignition.
so the best answer seems to be bolt on a higher compression cylinder head .question is , which one ? what about the savanna , for example , what output does it give , and would it fit .if it is injection , can it be modified easily /
well , you get the idea .all contributions gratefully accepted
lebesset
I have a renault trafic 1987 based eriba motor home . EXACTLY right for what I want and nobody now makes anything to replace it ; at 90K Km it's not exactly worn out .
there is only one problem for me : it has a low compression [8.0]
1995 engine which only gives 80 bhp with carb & electronic ignition.
so the best answer seems to be bolt on a higher compression cylinder head .question is , which one ? what about the savanna , for example , what output does it give , and would it fit .if it is injection , can it be modified easily /
well , you get the idea .all contributions gratefully accepted
lebesset