Scenic 1.5 dCi Engine Rebuild.

[lexi]

Any bore wear or ridge at top?

[steelcityuk]

Nothing significant. I've ordered a honing tool to give the bores a freshen up before fitting the new rings and pistons.

Steve.

[steelcityuk]

The parts I've ordered have arrived. I've shopped around for the best price on crank seals despite which the pair will cost around £30. I've still to order a sump gasket.

These bits cost just under £200.


The valve seats needed a bit of grinding to bring them back up to snuff.


More cleaning up is needed around the exhaust ports to remove excess paint and surface corrosion then a thorough cleaning is needed.


Over the weekend I've been cleaning up the sump then painting it and finished polishing the piston tops and combustion bowls, 30 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner removed the last traces of polishing compound. I haven't yet found any signs of black sludge, maybe that's why the engine has lasted to such a good mileage. At some stage I need to strip and rebuild the turbo. This rebuild looks like costing £400 in parts alone.

Steve.

[lexi]

The bits always mount up in price as you go. I find it is usually where to stop!.
You will get money back on diesel savings

[steelcityuk]

At last the crank seals arrived so I could start on the rebuild. First thing to be tackled was the cylinder head, a thorough degrease, new valve seals and put it all together. It didn't take too long, I found a spacer from a hard drive platter that was just the right size to fit the spring top seat and just fit into the bucket recess - this centralised the spring and made assembly much easier.

The block was degreased and bores re-honed. Crank degreased and checked. Main bearing caps ultrasonically cleaned, new main bearings fitted and coated with assembly lube, crank lubed and fitted. . The crank was checked for rotation smoothness before torquing down the main caps and afterward, it was nice and smooth so the bearings are the right size... Then the new Piston rings fitted along with the big end shells, plenty of lube used and these where inserted into the block and bolted onto the crank


I'm not happy with the sump gasket and will be changing it before continuing with the rebuild. It's a genuine part but it seems more suited to a flanged sump than one with a flat joint.


The next item for rebuilding will be the turbo. As usual it's scruffy and rusty in places subjected to the most heat. The variable mechanism feels free moving which is a good sign but the amount of oil that came out of the turbine inlet and compressor outlet aren't.


Steve.

[lexi]

Good to see your progress.

[steelcityuk]

I cut up the sump gasket and used the semi circular parts with instant gasket.


Multi layered head gasket made by FAI


Reference shot of the KKK BV 39 turbo showing the VNT actuator rod


Ready for the rebuild


The seals could be leaking a bit more than is normal. The carbon is soft and sticky not hard an brittle


A little bit cleaner


The turbine definately needs a clean up


Steve.

[lexi]

I wondered who's turbo was on the Clio. Was the Genuine hg silly money? FAI and Payen are usually good of course.
Do you have a Clip clone Steve?

[steelcityuk]

Hi Lexi,

Sorry but I don't understand about the Clio.

I didn't look at Renault head gaskets, I bought a 'head set' and just went for a quality brand. Same with the head bolts.

Here's my Clip clone in bits. I wouldn't even dream of running a Renault without one of these, it's had extensive use repair the previous 2 Scenics.


The LuK clutch that I bought didn't fit and had to be returned. The cover plate wasn't 'domed' enough to allow the fixing bolts to reach the flywheel.


So here's the replacement next to the old clutch.


And here it is fitted along with the cylinder head.


Turbo rebuild next.

Steve.

[bxzx16v]

Great update, it's going to be a healthy scenic when your done.

Mark

[steelcityuk]

A few hours was spent cleaning and painting the Alternator, Air Con Compressor and mounting bracket then bolting the bits into place. That meant that I could fit the timing belt, tightening the crank bolt is difficult due to the force needed, 120NM then 95 degrees. After doing all this it struck me I should have checked the valve clearances whilst the head was on the bench.


I've finally managed to remove the variable nozzle assembly using a blowtorch, lump hammer and chisel... More spares needed.

[steelcityuk]

I think I've tracked down a supplier for the part needed to rebuild the turbo so until they get the part in stock I decided to clean up some other bits ready for refitting.

Driveshafts and hub carriers media blasted and painted ready for refitting.


The front calipers and frames where covered in rust as per usual. I tried grit blasting them but progress was very slow, so I tried a descaling tool. This removed the lumpy bits but I still wasn't happy with the finish. Grit blasting them afterwards was still too slow (maybe my grit is worn out) so I'm trying electrolysis.


One of the lower ball joints had a tear to the rubber gaiter so I'd planned on replacing both, luckily I picked up a pair of Febi Bilsteins for a great price on eBay. Removing the old ones was easy but the new ones were a very tight fit. I think next time I'll pop them in the freezer for a couple of days first to shrink them.

[evilally]

Great work chap, interested to see how the electrolysis goes. What do you have it hooked up to? Have you tried soaking in a bucket of Smart Price Vinegar?

[Northern_Mike]

My brother used electrolysis to clean up loads of GS and 2cv parts last year. It worked really well. I'll get some pics and details from him.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[steelcityuk]

The electrolysis works very well, it's not a quick process but works very well and requires no effort or produces no noise. I haven't tried the vinegar process or the molasses one but I think for larger parts it would be a bit expensive. I've scaled up the electrolysis 'tank' to a dust bin. I'm using captured rainwater and washing soda from the pound shop.

The larger 'tank'. There's a trailer wheel rim in the bottom and the four rods hung over the sides nearly touch the bottom. The amount of washing soda added alters the current drawn, more soda=higher current draw. My setup was drawing around 7amps and was powered by a car battery backed up by a decent charger. At this current level the amount of gassing is significant and care must be taken because of the hydrogen (and oxygen?) produced.


Caliper bracket after 24 hours.


Caliper after 24 hours. This caliper is the one shown below and to the right, it was left for 24 hours just to see if if makes any difference to the finish of the metal compared to 12 hours.


Before and after. Cleaned with a wire brush, descaled with a air tool, 12 hours in a electrolytic bath using washing soda and finally another rub with the wire brush.


Whilst the Scenic's in bits I thought it a good idea to remove the subrame to deal with any corrosion and give it a lick of paint. I also MIG welded the threaded inserts into place and ground them down.

Before


After a coat of Hammerite No.1 Rust Beater, I'm just starting the first coat of Silver Hammerite.


The rear part of the front subframe will also be removed and delt with. As will the various brackets that tie them to the car.
More to follow.