New to the forum and actually run a BX but a friend has asked for help with his Clio cambelt and as we live in Portugal, (expats) information that we can fully understand is hard to come by.
Can any body point me in the right direction for info on the job, it is fairly urgent as I realised when he told me that the car has 200+ kms on, he has put 130 of those on the clock and the belt has apparently never been changed. It isn't a record breaking mileage, but it could be engine breaking pretty soon.
Thanks all
Duncan
Clio 1.2 RT Cam Belt
Moderator: RichardW
Hiya,,, Its not a terribly difficult job but a bit fiddly.
You have to jack up the engine off its mounting ( cam belt side ) front wheel, belts, Centre crank bolt, t belt covers ( obviously!)-- time it up to TDC - mark on bottom toothed sprocket aligns in 6 0'clock position with mark.. cam mark aligns at 12 0'clock with casting line on engine.. * NOTE : cam sprocket has multiple markings - Use the line mark adjacent to lettering E1-E3 *
You should fabricate a tool to lock the crank at TDC - (idealy) , loosen tensioner nut...remove belt and fit new one.. obviously ensuring nothing moves meantime!! The fiddly bit is tensioning the belt - stupid idea - but you just need to persist, probably doing it half a dozen times to get it right!!!! Dont forget to remove any locking pins -- and your done!
Hope thats enough info....should take you about 2 hrs -ish.
All the best then
Mike
Let us know how you go.
btw : Bottom crank nut/bolt - apart from tightening it "tight" -- its proper settings are : 20Nm - then turn it a further 90 degrees..and thats that.
Edited by - mg46783 on 31 Oct 2002 01:10:25
You have to jack up the engine off its mounting ( cam belt side ) front wheel, belts, Centre crank bolt, t belt covers ( obviously!)-- time it up to TDC - mark on bottom toothed sprocket aligns in 6 0'clock position with mark.. cam mark aligns at 12 0'clock with casting line on engine.. * NOTE : cam sprocket has multiple markings - Use the line mark adjacent to lettering E1-E3 *
You should fabricate a tool to lock the crank at TDC - (idealy) , loosen tensioner nut...remove belt and fit new one.. obviously ensuring nothing moves meantime!! The fiddly bit is tensioning the belt - stupid idea - but you just need to persist, probably doing it half a dozen times to get it right!!!! Dont forget to remove any locking pins -- and your done!
Hope thats enough info....should take you about 2 hrs -ish.
All the best then
Mike
Let us know how you go.
btw : Bottom crank nut/bolt - apart from tightening it "tight" -- its proper settings are : 20Nm - then turn it a further 90 degrees..and thats that.
Edited by - mg46783 on 31 Oct 2002 01:10:25
Thanks for the info Mike.
It sounds and looks much easier than on the BX.
I haven't seen the "innards" yet so any clues on type of tool needed to lock the crank and how tight should the belt be eventually, and is it like the BX where you partial assemble and then run the motor up to full temp. and then readjust the belt.
While I am in that bit of the engine are there any other parts that would benefit from attention when it is all exposed.
Many thanks
Duncan
It sounds and looks much easier than on the BX.
I haven't seen the "innards" yet so any clues on type of tool needed to lock the crank and how tight should the belt be eventually, and is it like the BX where you partial assemble and then run the motor up to full temp. and then readjust the belt.
While I am in that bit of the engine are there any other parts that would benefit from attention when it is all exposed.
Many thanks
Duncan
Hello Mike and All
Sorry this has taken a long time to post, the Renault repairs worked much better than my computer repair, (BIG power surges knocked out graphics card and one hard drive !!!!)
Thanks for the help with the cambelt, as you said it is just fiddly, much easier than on the BX as long as you jack the engine up enough.
The car is running sweet as a nut and has made a trip to the UK from here since the work so it must be OK.
Again thanks for your help.
Cheers
Duncan
Sorry this has taken a long time to post, the Renault repairs worked much better than my computer repair, (BIG power surges knocked out graphics card and one hard drive !!!!)
Thanks for the help with the cambelt, as you said it is just fiddly, much easier than on the BX as long as you jack the engine up enough.
The car is running sweet as a nut and has made a trip to the UK from here since the work so it must be OK.
Again thanks for your help.
Cheers
Duncan