309 AntiRoll Bar

burns · Post by **burns** » 03 Nov 2004, 21:30

I'm replacing my anti roll bar at the moment after one of the suspension arm bushes got rusted to it. To cut a long story short it needs doing before I can get my car back on the road.
However I'm struggling to get the old one off. I've got bothe suspension arms off, but I can't get the ARB clamps off. They are both undone, but there doesn't seem to be clearence to lift them off.
Does anyone know if you need to lower the sub frame to get the clearence above the bolts, or is there an altogether more cunning way to do it? Cheers for any help:).

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 03 Nov 2004, 22:40

Looks like the only way is dropping the subframe. If the engine wasn't in the way you might be able to take it up inside. Subframe is easier!

ralph · Post by **ralph** » 04 Nov 2004, 01:14

I agree, the 309 set-up is like the 205, and I can't see how you can get an anti-roll bar out of a 205 without dropping the sub-frame, even though Haynes says it's possible.

burns · Post by **burns** » 04 Nov 2004, 04:39

Alright, cheers for the help. Sounds like I'm going to have to drop the subframe. Anyone got some tips on how to do this? At the moment I've got axle stands under the subframe so they're going to have to move, I assume they'll be okay under the jacking points or somthing?
The other thing I'm worried about is supporting the engine. I should be able to find someone with an engine hoist, otherwise I guess it's a case of sticking a trolley jack under the sump with a block of wood.

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 04 Nov 2004, 14:26

Get the jack under the subframe and place the axle stands elsewhere (big wooden batten between is an idea). The engine is supported by the top and gearbox mountings as well as lower so no danger there. As far as I remember you need to undo some of the subframe bolts from inside the car. You only need to drop the frame enough to get the ARB out. Lining the subframe back up can be fun.

burns · Post by **burns** » 13 Nov 2004, 15:23

Right, ARB's done. I had to remove the four rear mounting bolts then lower the ones on either side by the wheels arches right to the end's of their threads. Also undid the steering column pinch bolt and one of the gear linkage ball joints to take the presure off of them. The ARB then just squeezed out the gap at the back.
Now just the suspension arms to go back on which should be easy(touch wood). I'll be using lots of grease this time though. Looking at the receipts for the car, the rusted up one was changed 2 years ago. The one thats been on there for 130K miles is nice and greased and in good working order though. I'd love to meet who changed that last one[:(!]

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 13 Nov 2004, 20:09

I have had new suspension arms last very little time. Some of them are just naff to start off with. Looks like you have done a good job!

burns · Post by **burns** » 16 Nov 2004, 00:11

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by beezer</i>

I have had new suspension arms last very little time. Some of them are just naff to start off with. Looks like you have done a good job!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thanks, it's all back on now and the knockings gone. Whatever was causing them to mve hasn't stopped though:(. The current suspect is the CV joint or drive shaft as the CV gaitor has gone and was noticed after a 1.5k trip to scotland so it may have been like that a while.
The cars booked into a garage for thursday though, then it's off for a road rally that evening:D.
Anyone know what they'll do at the garage though? I mean is the CV joint part of the drive shaft or will it be replcaed seperately? Any other likely culprits? I realise this has gone a bit OT...

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 16 Nov 2004, 02:15

There is a machine that can renew gaiters on integral cv/drive shafts. If the joint has to be replaced it will be shaft as well.