406 LX 2.0 cooling system

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jay.c.ely
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406 LX 2.0 cooling system

Post by jay.c.ely »

I am about to change coolant on a 97 16v 2.0 (XU10) petrol 406.
Would appreciate advice on following.
1) Peugeot handbook says 'imperative' to use Procor 3000 ... I was proposing to use Halfords branded antifreeze (the 'hi-tec' one that is supposed to last 5 years)...is it likely to do any harm?
2) Bleed points....Haynes lists 3 possible locations but only one I can find is on heater outlet union.
3) Header tank filling....is a filler bottle available from accessory or is it necessary to cobble one together?
4) Haven't yet crawled underneath to find the engine block drain which is described as being at 'back of engine'....any advice on location and tool needed to remove?
Yesterday replaced radiator on 89 405GLx4 which proved remarkably straightforward...used JCB antifreeze in that!
P 2501
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Post by P 2501 »

Hello
1) Not imperative to use procor 3000.Any reputable branded antifreeze of the right kind should be fine.
2)Heater is one, right hand side of the rad at the top is another and on my 306 there is one on a slim piece of piping to the right of the fuel filter housing.
3)Filler bottle can be cobbled together by one of the large robinsons squash bottles with the base cut out.may need some form of seal around the neck.
4)Engine block drain is on the back of the block but about half way up i think (could be wrong!) usually not much coolant comes out of here.
Hope this helps!
Stuart McB
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Post by Stuart McB »

There may be a bleed on the thermostat housing. If there is an allen key headed bolt or a regular hex head bolt remove the latter. As for the header tank, Ha***ds 1/2ltr bottle of anti freeze fits the rad tank neck with only a small amount of tape.
bikeboyz
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Post by bikeboyz »

Don't under estimate the importance of the header bottle, you need it to get a good presure up. This will cause more gravity and push out any trapped air in the engine, especially the head. Many of the older pre-80's french cars show pictures of this procedure in the driver's handbook. They also suggest jacking up the front of the car too, I use a couple of create block and put under the two front tyres.
The "Green" coloured 5 year coolant is ideal, although I expect your local Unipart shop will be cheaper than Halfords. Its not mixable with the old blue or red stuff so make sure you flush the system through well with the hose pipe.
jay.c.ely
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Post by jay.c.ely »

Thanks for the helpful replies...job done!
The bleed points were heater outlet pipe and thermostat housing (a brass screw with Allen key), there is no rad bleed screw (it is self-venting back into the header tank).
The engine block drain is on the centre line of the chassis...not difficult but a bit awkwark since the A/C pipes are in the way unless you have small hands.
Used the 5-year Halfords anti-freeze (had it on the shelf) which turned out to be bright pink!
Cobbled together a header bottle from a half-litre plastic meths bottle plus the rubber compression washer from a 32mm plastic waste diy plumbing connector (Great Mills)it was a perfect fit.
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