CV Boots .... split universal .. good/bad?

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StuartR
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CV Boots .... split universal .. good/bad?

Post by StuartR »

I've got one of the split cv boots that you can get to replace a damaged one. I've been told that there useless and come off straight away/or within a year/or last just as long as usual if glued cleanly, from various people.
I'm going to try it anyway but has anyone got any experiance of these easy fit boots just so I now what to expect, not sure who to believe at the moment.
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JohnD
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Post by JohnD »

Hi Stuart - Yes, I've used split gaiters more than once. With four family cars to look after, there's been times in winter when I've needed to. But they are really only a temporary measure. I've found that within months the grease has started to appear along the joint. If you have the tools, it's worth using one made for the joint.
StuartR
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Post by StuartR »

Damn I knew someone was going to say someting like that!
I'll give it a try. When you say the right tools I'm not sure if I have got them. First of all am I going to get that hub nut off it's such a high torque 250nm, and to put it back is tricky as my torque wrench stops at 210nm (thought about doing 210 then giving it say half turn more?)
then to get the boot over the cv joint Haynes mentions a sort of long cone shape tool. I'm sure that would stretch it out off shape is easy enough to dismantle the joint properly.
It's on a 205 diesel 92J by the way
Thanks if anyone gets back to me on this.
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JohnD
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Post by JohnD »

Hi Stuart - The hub nut will be very tight. Fortunately I have a suitable bar with enough leverage to undo them. Perhaps a tyre depot would use their air tool on it for you. Draper Tools do the cone for replacing bellows, and I have seen them in Halfords, but I don't know if they work. It's possible to dismantle the inner joint and put the new outer on from there.
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Post by Dave Burns »

Hi Stuart, me again, on my 88 GLD it had Triax joint's both inboard and outboard, the outboard joint could'nt be dismantled.
If you are lucky Peugeot might have replaced them with the normal six ball cv joint on later models, if they have the job is a doddle.
Look under the boot, if the outboard joint has three large rollers like the inner one, its a Triax.
In either case don't remove the hub nut, remove the pinch bolt (it has to come out) that holds the bottom ball join to the hub carrier, put the apropriate allen key into the slot and turn it so it spreads the forging slightly, then tap the suspension arm down to get it out.
Don't swing the suspension leg out yet, if it's a Triax joint clean around the inner joint and remove the clip's holding the boot, you may want to reuse the special grease in there so catch it and keep it free of muck, now swing the leg out and seperate the inner joint.
Don't let the rollers fall off, each one has thirty odd needle bearing's in them, remove the circlip from the end of the shaft and pull the yoke and roller's off, boot it now easey to replace.
If you are lucky though and it is a six ball joint like most car's have, disconnect the suspension arm as above, remove the clip's and slide the boot from the outer joint down the shaft out of the way, using a brass drift or other suitable punch, strike the innermost part (the bit the shaft goes through) of the cv joint while preventing the shaft being pulled from the diff, if the shaft is pulled from the diff the gearbox oil will escape.
A good sharp tap is required to seperate the shaft from the joint because there is a circlip that has to be forced into a groove on the end of the shaft, when you wallop it hard enough the shaft will come out, genuine replacement boot's will have a new circlip with them as it often gets sheared in half in the process.
Doing thing's this way you don't have to meddle with the hub nut or get gear oil everywhere.
The awkward bit's might be, getting the suspension arm to move down, against anti roll bar pressure, and sometimes the inboard yoke is a tight fit on the splines.
I had to replace the left hand boot regular on the car I had, untill I got wise and ignored the groove around the shaft where the boot was supposed to sit, I slid the small end of the boot closer to the joint and fastened it there so it did'nt have to stretch as much, I did'nt have to change it again after that.
I always had to reverse out of my driveway on full lefthand lock, it was this that used to bugger them up.
Good luck
Dave
paul141
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Post by paul141 »

it will most likely cost about £30 to get a garage to do this job for you including the rubber, if you drop the bearings on the inner its a nightmare, if the outer (knock off type will not come off) plays up it will mean undoing the drive shaft nut. i put a stretch boot on mine (SB001) borrowed the cone, got the garage to loosen the nut a bit.
mg46783
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Post by mg46783 »

Hi,
this is probably miles to late - been doing a bot o reading , but it may help someone else...
Ive used both...with success.....
The secret with the cut and shut type ( as I call them ) is that you have to have mounds of patience... in that, the tip is, get your boot cut to size and all set up etc.. fit it round the shaft , and here comes the "patience" bit... put the glue IN the Groove... only about ONE CENTIMETER at a time... Be SURE to give it time to set.. 30 secs or so ... and carry on till your finoshed - fit your straps.. ensuring the grease is in and the excess air is out... and your done.
Patience here is the key!!!! Be sure to - that everything is noce and clean AND that you use the gloves... or glue your fingers together!! You have bbeenn warned! ;-)
The "cone" method... this is a relativley new method and works fine.. you need the right size cone - I think theres 2 that covers all.. but note,,, the boots are not the ordinary ones... they are a speacial boots - in that they are "stretchy" ones.,, designed to be used with the cones.... immerse them in warm water for a few mins.. coat the cone woth a silicone grease.... wap it on - job done... just make sure you put it on the right way and not back to front !! ;))
The cone type method is preferred I spose in that its a boot without a seem.... and they are ideal for them triax things.
ok,,,,,,,,,
good lukck all
cheers
Mike
spanners
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Post by spanners »

the cone method is the best i use rhino boots the smaller cone tool works they supply an extra sleeve for bigger joints(just use lots of silicone based spray on cone invert boot and slip over c v joint. (they have a new pneumatic tool for expanding boots its WIKED but £60) not for a diy'er.) when boot is on just cut of excess ant tighten straps) ask a garage to loosten hub nut.
what a waste i have just read the date of initial question you have probably done job or shaft is now noisy sorry i am a new member.
Edited by - spanners on 20 Sep 2002 23:03:24
oilundernails
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Post by oilundernails »

Dave Burns(superguru)re:Drive shaft boots: My wife says, why not try reversing into your drive on alternate days? She has been known to hit the nail on the head now and then (is it the wheels?) so I pay attention.
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Had this problem a long time back with the old 205, Zx's and Xantia's don't give me this grief so I reckon it was something of a design cock up.
Your wife missed the nail all together this time, it would still have meant using full left hand lock wether reversing out or driving out forwards<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave
MARKBLACK
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Post by MARKBLACK »

StuartR
Hi, I have used the cones and stretch boots they are much easy - all you do is undo the drive shaft nut and take off the bottom joint.
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