Bleeding-well snapped off bleed screw..cont.

StuartR · Post by **StuartR** » 19 May 2004, 18:22

Dave Burns
This is really a continuation of my
"Bleeding-well snapped off bleed screw" post
back then you said you had a pair of bendix calipers suitable
for my - J reg 92, 205D style
If you've still got them, how much did you want for them
I think I could do with them.

2ndtonunn · Post by **2ndtonunn** » 19 May 2004, 21:00

Hi Stuart
All is not lost when a caliper bleed screw shears - there is a safe 'work around' which will keep you rolling - and stopping!!
If you want to know how let me know
Glyn

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 20 May 2004, 00:04

You can bleed them at the flexible pipe connection if you are desperate, as long as its the high point, pushing the piston back with the union open should expel any air from the caliper, again as long as its at the high point.
£15 plus postage for the pair if you are interested, I haven't clapped eyes on'em for a while so might take some finding, but they weren't very old when taken from the car, they are for solid discs, not vented.
Dave

StuartR · Post by **StuartR** » 21 May 2004, 22:31

Cheers for replying Dave, and much appreciate the offer but just wondered what there history is.
Are they off one of your old 205's, and are all the seals ok.
Also "2ndtonunn" or Glyn what do you mean by the "work around" is it what Dave's described.
(by the way it's still working ok its just I'm tring to cover all bases so to speak, or at least this one, probably time to swap the old pug for a newer one really)

2ndtonunn · Post by **2ndtonunn** » 22 May 2004, 00:40

Hi Stuart
Yes Dave is spot on, I have had this problem with a ZX and a Renault!!
- silly small bleed nipples...
The easiest way is to remove one pad and gently operate the brake pedal to move the piston over and ensure a good amount of fluid in the caliper, then just crack open the flexible where it screws into the top of the caliper.
Now the tricky bit - it may call for a third hand....
While keeping the pipe loose slowly push the piston back in until it is flush with the seal - beware the fuid escaping from the joint, when the piston is right home temporarily retighten the pipe, replace the pad adding if possible a packing piece between it an the disk or piston to hold the piston in as far as possible.
Now with someone pushing the brake pedal for you on the 'down' command re-open the pipe joint and let the fluid out, when the pedal reaches the floor, tighten the joint again while the pedal is released, repeat the procedure until the fluid just exits in a steady stream with no spitting of air.
Ensure that the pipe is tightend before the pedal is released for the final time. And don't forget to remove the packing piece and check the pad fitting before replacing the wheel, Pump the pedal to re adust the pads before driving off...
Hope this helps - certainly cheaper than a new caliper.
Regards
Glyn

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 24 May 2004, 01:11

Found'em Stuart, they're ok, nipples and pistons are nice and free, thay had'nt been on long and done about 8k miles between one August and the following February, can take a pic of them if you like.
Dave