205 Diesel cuts out while ticking over!
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205 Diesel cuts out while ticking over!
My 205 Diesel 1.8 1990 has started to cut out while ticking over.
It seems not enough diesel is getting up to the engine, if you hand prime it, it runs fine.
It doesn't happen all the time which is why i can't beleive the pump is broke as I'd have thought no diesel would get round!
If you can give me any help or advice it would be much appreciated as i don't want to spend out.
It seems not enough diesel is getting up to the engine, if you hand prime it, it runs fine.
It doesn't happen all the time which is why i can't beleive the pump is broke as I'd have thought no diesel would get round!
If you can give me any help or advice it would be much appreciated as i don't want to spend out.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by kevin</i>
What type of pump do you have, it will be either Bosch or Lucas DPC AKA CAV Rotodiesel
Are the fuel and air filter's ok and the stop solenoid has a good connection?
Kevin
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It has the original fuel pump as factory fitted for the 1990 1.8 205 Diesel. Not sure what that would be.
The fuel filter was replaced when this problem was first seen.
I don't fit an air filter as the engine tends to blow as the piston rings appear to be worn.
Can you explain more about the stop solenoid??
Cheers
What type of pump do you have, it will be either Bosch or Lucas DPC AKA CAV Rotodiesel
Are the fuel and air filter's ok and the stop solenoid has a good connection?
Kevin
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It has the original fuel pump as factory fitted for the 1990 1.8 205 Diesel. Not sure what that would be.
The fuel filter was replaced when this problem was first seen.
I don't fit an air filter as the engine tends to blow as the piston rings appear to be worn.
Can you explain more about the stop solenoid??
Cheers
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The stop solenoid is located towards the rear of the pump. It is an electromagnetic switch that cuts off the fuel supply when no current is applied to it, when you switch off the engine.
It should have the manufacturers stamp somewhere on the pump as well as the fuel filter housing as they will be supplied by the same company.
One trick I was told to do when looking for air leaks was to go round all the unions in the system and coat with oil, 3 in 1, WD40 or light hydraulic oil. The oil will provide an air tight seal.
If the filter has been changed, then change the all washers in that area first. If you touch the other joints in the system, you could be increasing the chance of air entering into the system at other points. If yours is fitted with a lift pump on top of the filter housing, air could be leaking from that as well.
Good luck
Kevin
It should have the manufacturers stamp somewhere on the pump as well as the fuel filter housing as they will be supplied by the same company.
One trick I was told to do when looking for air leaks was to go round all the unions in the system and coat with oil, 3 in 1, WD40 or light hydraulic oil. The oil will provide an air tight seal.
If the filter has been changed, then change the all washers in that area first. If you touch the other joints in the system, you could be increasing the chance of air entering into the system at other points. If yours is fitted with a lift pump on top of the filter housing, air could be leaking from that as well.
Good luck
Kevin
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by woodhead722</i>
Does it just cut out on tickover or does it run rough?
Is it cured once the engine is hot?
I'll wait for your answer, I'm no expert but my recent 205 D problems may assist.
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It does cut out on occasions at tickover.
It is far worse when cold but can be kept running by increasing the revs.
But even after a run of 25 miles and an hours driving it can still cut-out and idles irratically.
The car drives fine on the open road and has as much power as you'd expect so really doubt there is too much of a problem. I do tend to think that maybe air is getting into the fuel system. We did loosen off the 4 injector nuts and one sprayed up one the others didn't show a lot of pressure.
Does it just cut out on tickover or does it run rough?
Is it cured once the engine is hot?
I'll wait for your answer, I'm no expert but my recent 205 D problems may assist.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It does cut out on occasions at tickover.
It is far worse when cold but can be kept running by increasing the revs.
But even after a run of 25 miles and an hours driving it can still cut-out and idles irratically.
The car drives fine on the open road and has as much power as you'd expect so really doubt there is too much of a problem. I do tend to think that maybe air is getting into the fuel system. We did loosen off the 4 injector nuts and one sprayed up one the others didn't show a lot of pressure.
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Not quite the same pattern of problems I had, but I also suspect an air leak.
Our air leak only showed up as a fuel leak (eventually by luck) on a full tank AND parked facing down drive (wife always parks uphill). Our leak was rubber tube on tank side of fuel filter.
We could also assist starting by hand priming.
Our pattern was: -
a)poor cold morning starts
b)(a)+ rough tick over & occasional stall
c)(a+b) followed by rough running & surges until warm.
d)Starts needing lots of cranks + eventual jump leads, presumably to finally get rid of air.
a,b,c+d had probably week or two between each progression.
Finally I have never removed injectors. Could your ONE spraying when loosed merely be that cylinder under compression?
Are leak-off rubbers splitting, or does this return independantly to fuel tank and not matter?
Hope this helps!
Our air leak only showed up as a fuel leak (eventually by luck) on a full tank AND parked facing down drive (wife always parks uphill). Our leak was rubber tube on tank side of fuel filter.
We could also assist starting by hand priming.
Our pattern was: -
a)poor cold morning starts
b)(a)+ rough tick over & occasional stall
c)(a+b) followed by rough running & surges until warm.
d)Starts needing lots of cranks + eventual jump leads, presumably to finally get rid of air.
a,b,c+d had probably week or two between each progression.
Finally I have never removed injectors. Could your ONE spraying when loosed merely be that cylinder under compression?
Are leak-off rubbers splitting, or does this return independantly to fuel tank and not matter?
Hope this helps!
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Have a good look for this wet. The rubber has to go at right angles and may split as it passes over metal fuel tube.
My rubber pipes split from the tank to the metal pipes near the back.
Now if you have one splitting on the supply side to the filter you may have found your problem!!
Fuel route is as follows: -
Tank to preheater (or similar at bottom/back of engine)......to filter LHS (in)... filter RHS (out)assuming same make of filter as me....pump RHS.... to injectors...excess to pump LHS....back to tank.
Hope you have a split rubber on supply side and it cures your problem!
It's cheap and relatively easy!
My rubber pipes split from the tank to the metal pipes near the back.
Now if you have one splitting on the supply side to the filter you may have found your problem!!
Fuel route is as follows: -
Tank to preheater (or similar at bottom/back of engine)......to filter LHS (in)... filter RHS (out)assuming same make of filter as me....pump RHS.... to injectors...excess to pump LHS....back to tank.
Hope you have a split rubber on supply side and it cures your problem!
It's cheap and relatively easy!
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- Posts: 13
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- Posts: 161
- Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
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- Posts: 161
- Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
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