205 Diesel cuts out while ticking over!

This is the Forum for all your Peugeot Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

Moderator: RichardW

Post Reply
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

205 Diesel cuts out while ticking over!

Post by chas smash »

My 205 Diesel 1.8 1990 has started to cut out while ticking over.
It seems not enough diesel is getting up to the engine, if you hand prime it, it runs fine.
It doesn't happen all the time which is why i can't beleive the pump is broke as I'd have thought no diesel would get round!
If you can give me any help or advice it would be much appreciated as i don't want to spend out.
kevin
Posts: 129
Joined: 13 Aug 2002, 18:06
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars:

Post by kevin »

What type of pump do you have, it will be either Bosch or Lucas DPC AKA CAV Rotodiesel
Are the fuel and air filter's ok and the stop solenoid has a good connection?
Kevin
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by kevin</i>

What type of pump do you have, it will be either Bosch or Lucas DPC AKA CAV Rotodiesel
Are the fuel and air filter's ok and the stop solenoid has a good connection?
Kevin
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It has the original fuel pump as factory fitted for the 1990 1.8 205 Diesel. Not sure what that would be.
The fuel filter was replaced when this problem was first seen.
I don't fit an air filter as the engine tends to blow as the piston rings appear to be worn.
Can you explain more about the stop solenoid??
Cheers
woodhead722
Posts: 161
Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
Location:
My Cars:

Post by woodhead722 »

Does it just cut out on tickover or does it run rough?
Is it cured once the engine is hot?
I'll wait for your answer, I'm no expert but my recent 205 D problems may assist.
JohnD
(Donor 2022)
Posts: 2632
Joined: 14 Mar 2001, 23:41
Location: Epsom, Surrey
My Cars: 2010 Citroen C5-X7 tourer
1998 Citroen Saxo 1.5D
2018 Citroen C4-B7
1998 Peugeot 306. 1.9D
2011 Citroen C1
x 72
Contact:

Post by JohnD »

If the engine continues to run when you hand prime it, but cuts out when you don´t, your problem sounds as though air is leaking into the fuel lines. I would start by putting some new copper washers in the banjo joints.
kevin
Posts: 129
Joined: 13 Aug 2002, 18:06
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars:

Post by kevin »

The stop solenoid is located towards the rear of the pump. It is an electromagnetic switch that cuts off the fuel supply when no current is applied to it, when you switch off the engine.
It should have the manufacturers stamp somewhere on the pump as well as the fuel filter housing as they will be supplied by the same company.
One trick I was told to do when looking for air leaks was to go round all the unions in the system and coat with oil, 3 in 1, WD40 or light hydraulic oil. The oil will provide an air tight seal.
If the filter has been changed, then change the all washers in that area first. If you touch the other joints in the system, you could be increasing the chance of air entering into the system at other points. If yours is fitted with a lift pump on top of the filter housing, air could be leaking from that as well.
Good luck
Kevin
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by woodhead722</i>

Does it just cut out on tickover or does it run rough?
Is it cured once the engine is hot?
I'll wait for your answer, I'm no expert but my recent 205 D problems may assist.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It does cut out on occasions at tickover.
It is far worse when cold but can be kept running by increasing the revs.
But even after a run of 25 miles and an hours driving it can still cut-out and idles irratically.
The car drives fine on the open road and has as much power as you'd expect so really doubt there is too much of a problem. I do tend to think that maybe air is getting into the fuel system. We did loosen off the 4 injector nuts and one sprayed up one the others didn't show a lot of pressure.
woodhead722
Posts: 161
Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
Location:
My Cars:

Post by woodhead722 »

Not quite the same pattern of problems I had, but I also suspect an air leak.
Our air leak only showed up as a fuel leak (eventually by luck) on a full tank AND parked facing down drive (wife always parks uphill). Our leak was rubber tube on tank side of fuel filter.
We could also assist starting by hand priming.
Our pattern was: -
a)poor cold morning starts
b)(a)+ rough tick over & occasional stall
c)(a+b) followed by rough running & surges until warm.
d)Starts needing lots of cranks + eventual jump leads, presumably to finally get rid of air.
a,b,c+d had probably week or two between each progression.
Finally I have never removed injectors. Could your ONE spraying when loosed merely be that cylinder under compression?
Are leak-off rubbers splitting, or does this return independantly to fuel tank and not matter?
Hope this helps!
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

Interestingly enough at the last MOT in January the VOSA states:
Advise Fuel pipes near Tank wet.
Is this the leak that could be causing air to be getting into the fuel system.?
woodhead722
Posts: 161
Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
Location:
My Cars:

Post by woodhead722 »

Have a good look for this wet. The rubber has to go at right angles and may split as it passes over metal fuel tube.
My rubber pipes split from the tank to the metal pipes near the back.
Now if you have one splitting on the supply side to the filter you may have found your problem!!
Fuel route is as follows: -
Tank to preheater (or similar at bottom/back of engine)......to filter LHS (in)... filter RHS (out)assuming same make of filter as me....pump RHS.... to injectors...excess to pump LHS....back to tank.
Hope you have a split rubber on supply side and it cures your problem!
It's cheap and relatively easy!
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

I will look over the fuel pipes this week-end and let you know the results. It does seem to be far worse in cold weather like today. Presumably this could be because there is no sealing effect from the heat of the engine as the air temperature is too cold.
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

The car is now not drivable as it cuts out all the time now.
I can't really convince my diesel engine experts that the fuel pipe split would cause the problem they think the pump is not pumping correctly and only works under pressure.
woodhead722
Posts: 161
Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
Location:
My Cars:

Post by woodhead722 »

Sorry chas, but I cannot argue with an 'expert'. I merely gave you my own experiences which I thought may assist.
Did you locate the source of the 'wet fuel pipes', and on each engine start attempt did you allow the heater plugs a chance? (Get the jump leads ready!!)
chas smash
Posts: 13
Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 04:09
Location:
My Cars:

Post by chas smash »

Well i have priced up the bosch diesel pumps 2nd hand.
The car is in the garage and i would still like to change the fuel pipe first as i think it sounds so like your problem.
woodhead722
Posts: 161
Joined: 30 Oct 2001, 03:57
Location:
My Cars:

Post by woodhead722 »

Chas, just one final thought to frighten you with.
You earlier mention possible poor piston rings. Do you think that there is a chance poor compression, giving no 'explosion'of diesel could cause your problem?
I would hate you to replace the pump and not cure. Can you still hand prime and start?
Post Reply