106 Clunks

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Pug106Dave
Posts: 27
Joined: 25 Feb 2004, 16:05
Location: Nottingham
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106 Clunks

Post by Pug106Dave »

Hey all, I've got a 106 1.5D (86k) and have a few clunks I'd like your advise on...
1) When turning the steering wheel at I get a big clunk felt through the wheel, occurs more when at slow speeds, such as parking. I've had a wiggle, and when i turn the steering wheel the front driverside suspension strut feels like it kicks-out and i get the clunk. I'm guessing its a problem with the top strut mount, bearing? Do i have to remove the strut, or can i just compress the spring and replace the bearing with it still on the car?
2) When going up and down bumps or pot-holes I have a metallic sounding clunk from the driverside roadwheel area, this is more noticeable when cornering. I have recently replaced the wishbone bushes and the driveshaft on this side, however the wishbone itself has only been on the car 2.5 years (according to the history i recieved) so it that a bit premature for the ball-joint to have gone? If it is the ball joint can i replace it myself? Mr Haynes says no, but he said that for the bushes aswell![:D]
Any suggestions gratefully recieved?
Dave
red161
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Post by red161 »

Sounds like a dodgy driveshaft CV joint to me.
mgoodlad
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Joined: 19 Sep 2002, 22:17
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Post by mgoodlad »

My 106 1.5d at 84k miles had a clunk from front wheel on cornering - to figure it out I jacked up the car and grasped top and bottom of the wheel and wiggled it while watching carefully what was loose (at the back of the wheel) On that occasion it was a wheel bearing - I could see the whole hub assembly move, but could see the bottom ball joint did not. I got a garage to change the bearing. (about £20 part and £45 labour).
I had another identical car a few years back and at one point the bottom ball joint did go - when doing the above test you could see some give in the joint. I changed the whole wishbone myself (I don't think you can replace the balljoint separately) and not too difficult - hardest bit is getting the ball joint dislodged from the hub assembly. I have found putting a normal claw hammers head down close to the joint and whacking its end with a heavy club hammer works well, as its just the right length, (but probably not recommended and you should use proper balljoint separators). Then just a big bolt for the front mounting point and lift the carpet to get at the two nuts holding the rear mounting point.
You can get varying quality in parts so a cheap wishbone might only last a few years - or of course the rubber cover can get damaged and it would quickly wear.
One other possiblity which I thought I had, was that on replacement of the driveshaft there is some dirt or something in the hub and it is not fully pulled through, although the nut is tight. Compare how many threads are showing in the middle of the wheel with the other side. This was not my problem though, but I did take it out, clean everything up and put back together.
Never had any problems with the top bearings..
Regards
Michael
1996 106 1.5d 85k miles
1996 306 TD 65k miles
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