307 loss of power

[Nelly1]

Aren't EGR's sprung closed. So if there is no voltage to the EGR it should be fully closed, therefore equivalent to having a blanking plate fitted anyway??
Can anybody advise

[EDC5]

If you indeed have a faulty ECU, it may be supplying the 'fully open' voltage constantly. I know that's probably an incredibly rare fault but its not impossible. I've read about EGR's sticking open due to carbon deposits so the spring is unable to close them but since you've already had it replaced then it doesn't sound likely to be honest.

[elma]

Does the car sound different since it lost power? Is it more clattery or is there a loud whooshing noise under power?

Seen as you are an electrician get your tester and someone here more familiar with your car than I can tell you where to test the 5v feed. No need to pay the garage to fit the plate that way. Personally I think that sounds like bull from a garage who don't get modern automotive electronics. As you say equipment should be tested rather than just replaced willy nilly, sounds like in this case it was not. If the 5v feed is present then I think you deserve a refund of the labour charged by said garage.

I'd want the timing checked too like Peter suggested. Was that part of your diagnostic? If not it's what I'd be checking next along with all the turbo pipes.

[Nelly1]

There is a change in engine sound it's slightly rattling and sounds like the exhaust is blowing. The timing is being checked now after he agreed with me that if the valve is stuck shut it's the same as blanking it, therefore it can't have been a faulty valve or ECU in the first place. If he says the timing is ok I'll take the car to work. That way I can strip whatever down myself and hopefully learn a thing or two along the way.
Thanks for all the help I've received so far, I'll keep you posted on how it goes

[elma]

There is a change in engine sound it's slightly rattling and sounds like the exhaust is blowing.

To me that makes a damaged or poorly sealed air hose sound the most likely culprit. When its happened to me the engine goes clattery and the turbo can make a loud whoosh. Possibly you are hearing that rather than the exhaust.

I still think it's wise to check the timing though. That would really worry me on my own car until it was ruled out.

If you get a chance it's worth checking all the rubber hoses you can see are connected correctly and not loose or damaged. If you can do so before the timing is checked you may even save paying another bill.

[RichardW]

Checking the timing might not reveal all as you are only checking the timing of the belt drive cam - the second, chain driven, cam is much more difficult to check. It's a good place to start though - always check the last thing you did.

Really it needs some proper diagnostics with live data to see what is going on.

[MikeT]

Update
EGR has been replaced, and surprise surprise the problem still exists. Garage is now saying ECU is not sending out the 5v required to operate the EGR. He's saying the ECU needs to be sent for test/repair so my questions are.

1) does this sound feasible or not
2)as an electrician I test voltage to equipment before I say it's knackered do mechanics not do this or do they just rely on the diagnostic equipment
Thanks in advance for any replies

1) ECUs commonly use 5v as a reference signal. In the case of an EGR, it would be to monitor the position of the valve.
A faulty 5v signal may or may not be down to a faulty ECU.

2) Maybe you could as the mechanic.
As an electrician it would be fairly trivial for you to confirm this fault for yourself;- disconnect the EGR plug and with ignition on (bear in mind it will likely flag an open circuit fault code.), probe it's pins, one should read 5v+.

[MikeT]

Update
EGR has been replaced, and surprise surprise the problem still exists. Garage is now saying ECU is not sending out the 5v required to operate the EGR. He's saying the ECU needs to be sent for test/repair so my questions are.

1) does this sound feasible or not
2)as an electrician I test voltage to equipment before I say it's knackered do mechanics not do this or do they just rely on the diagnostic equipment
Thanks in advance for any replies

1) ECUs commonly use 5v as a reference signal. In the case of an EGR, it would be to monitor the position of the valve.
A faulty 5v signal may or may not be down to a faulty ECU.

2) Maybe you could ask the mechanic.
As an electrician it would be fairly trivial for you to confirm this fault for yourself;- disconnect the EGR plug and with ignition on (bear in mind it will likely flag an open circuit fault code.), probe it's pins, one should read 5v+.

[Nelly1]

Thanks again for all the help. When I get it back from the garage assuming it's not a timing issue I'll start to investigate it myself.

[Nelly1]

Update
I got the car back from the garage who was extremely fair with what he charged me I've just stripped it down myself and fitted a blanking plate to the EGR which I have to say was a right bi*Ch ,put it back together and it's made zero difference. So question is does anybody have a clue what to try next or is anybody in the Loughborough area with planet that could help me out.
On the plus side I'm no longer worried about taking my car to bits

[EDC5]

I think perhaps it's time to get it hooked up to a Lexia and see some live data?

[MikeT]

As per EDC5, a Peugeot specific (Diagbox/Planet) diagnostic session should prove more enlightening and economical than random parts-swaps.
Is the engine light on all the time? Any other dash warnings/signals?
Does the car have a DPF? MAF and Turbo are two other common causes of low power, if not.

[Nelly1]

Thanks for the replies I'll bite the bullet and get it booked in at Peugeot, I just hope there more specific with there findings