1994 405 SRDT with ECU.
Previously had 1994 Xantia TD without ECU.
Looking for the coolant bleed points, so far, all I have found is the one on the other side of the radiator.
Basically I have symptoms of a duff themostat, or more likely an air-lock in the coolant matrix.
Haynes for 405 diesels says there is a bleed point on the matrix-out hose. On the Xantia, there was one on the mounting where both pipes connect to the matrix. There isn't one on the mounting or the pipe on the 405.
Also Haynes says there may be another hose attached purely for making bleeding of this area more accessible - I can't find such a hose.
On the xantia, there was a small pipe which ran more or less in line with the cam belt, over the engine mounting, where it T'd off into the top front of the head. The T had a bleed point. There isn't a pipe like this on my engine.
So, bascially ( despite following haynes ), the only bleed point I've found is the opposite end of the radiator to the filler.
Any pointers ?
Mat.
405 TD Coolant Bleed Points
Moderator: RichardW
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woodhead722
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I replaced the anti freeze on my 405 gld and couldn't find them for looking.
I managed to put in about only 4 pints of 7 (approx!) required without a struggle, so in my diary i've noted to remove thermostat next time. Fill as much as possible without spillage then replace.
You can check the stat while it's out!
Bleeding it is a nightmare , but with the 'stat removed you will get most in before giving the engine a run to keep filling the reservoir.
There are also tricks re heating the stat in hot water to open and wedging an asprin or bit of a mint to prevent closing during refilling. This of course eventually dissolves and allows the stat to operate as normal. You will know if this hasn't worked as your heater will be poor!
I managed to put in about only 4 pints of 7 (approx!) required without a struggle, so in my diary i've noted to remove thermostat next time. Fill as much as possible without spillage then replace.
You can check the stat while it's out!
Bleeding it is a nightmare , but with the 'stat removed you will get most in before giving the engine a run to keep filling the reservoir.
There are also tricks re heating the stat in hot water to open and wedging an asprin or bit of a mint to prevent closing during refilling. This of course eventually dissolves and allows the stat to operate as normal. You will know if this hasn't worked as your heater will be poor!
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
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Early ZX's also had this pipe:
"Also Haynes says there may be another hose attached purely for making bleeding of this area more accessible - I can't find such a hose."
It came from the main matrix connection and went behind the servo and along the strut top, made bleeding a piece of cake, now its been discontinued, bleeding is a bastard, especially when the water is hot.
There may be bleed screws in the thermostat housing, if so they will be metal allen heads, there may be one on the degassing pipe that goes from the stat housing to the rad.
Dave
"Also Haynes says there may be another hose attached purely for making bleeding of this area more accessible - I can't find such a hose."
It came from the main matrix connection and went behind the servo and along the strut top, made bleeding a piece of cake, now its been discontinued, bleeding is a bastard, especially when the water is hot.
There may be bleed screws in the thermostat housing, if so they will be metal allen heads, there may be one on the degassing pipe that goes from the stat housing to the rad.
Dave
Should be a recessed hex allen cap head bleed screw in the top of the thermostat housing, is this the one you have found..?
Mine hasn't got bleed valves at the matrix either, wish it had.
On mine a tube from the thermostat housing goes to half way up the radiator. I've cut it, and put in a bit of tube to remake the joint.
It's arranged so I can get a hose on it, and fill the engine block, matrix and radiator with water under mains pressure. Seems to be the only way to get the heater to work properly, lasts for a few months..!
Cheers
Russell
Mine hasn't got bleed valves at the matrix either, wish it had.
On mine a tube from the thermostat housing goes to half way up the radiator. I've cut it, and put in a bit of tube to remake the joint.
It's arranged so I can get a hose on it, and fill the engine block, matrix and radiator with water under mains pressure. Seems to be the only way to get the heater to work properly, lasts for a few months..!
Cheers
Russell
Nope, I'm talking about the hole next to the coolant temperature sensor on the housing, this is plugged using what looks like a 15mm (ish) M8 (ish) type bolt.
The flushing of the matrix, and changing the thermostat ( gunked up and semi-melted seal ), still has not solved my problem of poor warm air flow inside the cabin. When moving, the air flow begins warm, and then turns cool to cold within 30 seconds. When stopped, I get air that's a little warmer, and lasts slightly longer, but eventually turns cold.
The temperature gague shows 80 most of the time, dropping down a little to 75 sometimes on the motorway. This is what made me change the thermostat ( plus the top hose was gradually warming ).
The hoses going to the matrix via the bulkhead get plenty warm enough.
I guess the next stage is to take the console apart and check the flaps etc..
The flushing of the matrix, and changing the thermostat ( gunked up and semi-melted seal ), still has not solved my problem of poor warm air flow inside the cabin. When moving, the air flow begins warm, and then turns cool to cold within 30 seconds. When stopped, I get air that's a little warmer, and lasts slightly longer, but eventually turns cold.
The temperature gague shows 80 most of the time, dropping down a little to 75 sometimes on the motorway. This is what made me change the thermostat ( plus the top hose was gradually warming ).
The hoses going to the matrix via the bulkhead get plenty warm enough.
I guess the next stage is to take the console apart and check the flaps etc..