307 wishbone change

[doctle]

Hi Guys,
I need to change a wishbone on the 307. Haynes book says drain the gear oil and remove the driveshaft. Is it possible to remove the bolt without removing the driveshaf? Thanks for any replies

[Oldpug]

The shaft has to be moved.You can remove the shaft from the hub,leave the other end in the box so you wont loos any oil.Then swing the shaft out of the way of the bolt.
Mind you after going through all that work why not remove the shaft completely,new gearbox oil AND OIL SEAL.

[doctle]

OK thanks for the reply I suppose if thats the method thats what I'll have to do!I was hoping to remove the shaft from the hub and the carrier bearing

[RichardW]

If it's the left hand arm, you might as well remove the shaft - chances are it will fall out of the box anyway. If it's the right hand arm, I wouldn't bother with the shaft - just tie it up out of the way on the spring. note that there is not enough downwards movement in the arm to engage / disengage it from the bottom ball joint without compressing the spring or removing it from the strut, so you might as well remove the hub complete. Here is a vid showing it being done without splitting the shaft / hub, but the hub would be damn heavy like this! Given the puny TORX fitting on the top of the bolt, I would have new ones on hand, as my guess is they will need to be cut off....

[doctle]

If it's the left hand arm, you might as well remove the shaft - chances are it will fall out of the box anyway. If it's the right hand arm, I wouldn't bother with the shaft - just tie it up out of the way on the spring. note that there is not enough downwards movement in the arm to engage / disengage it from the bottom ball joint without compressing the spring or removing it from the strut, so you might as well remove the hub complete. Here is a vid showing it being done without splitting the shaft / hub, but the hub would be damn heavy like this! Given the puny TORX fitting on the top of the bolt, I would have new ones on hand, as my guess is they will need to be cut off....

Now that seems doable! I was going to undo the nut on the shaft pull the cv out and raise the shaft but that looks easy enough even without the ramps and rattle gun. Thanks a lot for the link, much appreciated! Can the torx bolts be replaced with same grade hex head bolts?

[RichardW]

In principal a normal bolt will do, but it may be a shouldered design. Part number 352288 £4.70 each from Pug.... M14x 150 long

[doctle]

Do you mean the hex bolt would need to be shouldered? Are they standard steel bolts or are they harder? apologies for all the questions thanks

[Hell Razor5543]

While I am not going to be able help, you do not need to apologise for asking questions. You do not know the information, and you are requesting it. One of my multitude of sayings is that "While there are no such thing as stupid questions, stupid mistakes DO exist".

[myglaren]

While I am not going to be able help, you do not need to apologise for asking questions. You do not know the information, and you are requesting it. One of my multitude of saying is that "While there is no such thing as stupid questions, stupid mistakes DO exist".

Indeed!

The very raison d'etre of the forum is to be able to ask questions and have them answered.
No questions = no forum.

[RichardW]

I imagine the bolt will be 8.8 high tensile spec. I was thinking it might be thicker at the top part where it goes through the arm - but if you look at the kits on e-bay, they just look like a normal bolt, with a relatively short threaded section (Here is a used bolt on ebay: bolt - I wouldn't fork out 4 quid for that though - look at the head!! Actually, the head appears to be stamped with 10.9 so they might be higher spec than 8.8.

I could be wrong, but with the thread sticking out the bottom, a nylock, and a torx head sticking up that will fill up with water; it just isn't going to want to come off!

[doctle]

I'll try a normal hex headed high tensile bolt. Next question. I bought this 2005 car for €80 or about £65.00 cheap because the turbo screeches. I towed it home. The oil is very thick. I bought new turbo oil feed pipe and banjo to go with my "new" 2nd hand guaranteed for 60 days turbo.. My mate says do an engine flush my brother reckons do 100 miles on cheap oil then change oil and filter again. Any ideas?

[Paul-R]

Oil changes are always a good idea for an engine you don't know the history of. What engine is in the 307?

[doctle]

Oil changes are always a good idea for an engine you don't know the history of. What engine is in the 307?

Its a 1.4 HDi 235000 km on the clock

[ekjdm14]

While I am not going to be able help, you do not need to apologise for asking questions. You do not know the information, and you are requesting it. One of my multitude of sayings is that "While there are no such thing as stupid questions, stupid mistakes DO exist".

Indeed, the only "stupid" question is the one that isn't asked & results in a preventable error.

the 1.4 isn't known for doing turbos in the same way as the 1.6 but all the same it's a good move having a new feed pipe & banjo on hand. Personally, if it's not burning a lot of oil (thus giving potential for diesel runaway) I'd run it up to temperature (only about 75c on the 206 at least) with the old turbo still fitted & then drain the oil (taking care not to scald my hands!), leaving the plug out while I did the replacement job to ensure a really good drain & then replace the plug, new filter & fill with cheapo brand (but correct spec) oil and run it for 100 miles or so before doing another change with cheap oil (but keep filter unless the oil was really bad again) and then another 100 miles down the road do a full service, good quality oil/filters & cambelt kit if it's due/unknown.

Should end up with a sound little motor that way, well bought for that price too & if it's anything like the 206 replacing the turbo should be a doddle. Might even be more room to work on the 307

[doctle]

While I am not going to be able help, you do not need to apologise for asking questions. You do not know the information, and you are requesting it. One of my multitude of sayings is that "While there are no such thing as stupid questions, stupid mistakes DO exist".

Indeed, the only "stupid" question is the one that isn't asked & results in a preventable error.

the 1.4 isn't known for doing turbos in the same way as the 1.6 but all the same it's a good move having a new feed pipe & banjo on hand. Personally, if it's not burning a lot of oil (thus giving potential for diesel runaway) I'd run it up to temperature (only about 75c on the 206 at least) with the old turbo still fitted & then drain the oil (taking care not to scald my hands!), leaving the plug out while I did the replacement job to ensure a really good drain & then replace the plug, new filter & fill with cheapo brand (but correct spec) oil and run it for 100 miles or so before doing another change with cheap oil (but keep filter unless the oil was really bad again) and then another 100 miles down the road do a full service, good quality oil/filters & cambelt kit if it's due/unknown.

Should end up with a sound little motor that way, well bought for that price too & if it's anything like the 206 replacing the turbo should be a doddle. Might even be more room to work on the 307

Plenty of room around the 307 engine! I did most of what you suggested apart from fresh pouring oil with the sump plug removed. (learning curve) The guy in my local Peugeot garage said use good 10w40 oil as that was the oil Peugeot used to use on these engines. I changed the filter when I removed the treacle from the sump. Turbo isn't too hard to change but changing the oil pipe meant removing the cat and heatshield. Is there a knack to removing and refitting those exhaust clamps that doesn't involve removing skin from the hands? It took me about 3 hours all told including 2 or 3 cups of tea. The wastegate on the old turbo seems to stuck slightly open with a lot of carbon inside it. Turbine turns freely and no play on the shaft so maybe a tin of brake cleaner or some Mr muscle? Can a turbo be tested on the bench?

Guy I bought the car off can't remember when the timing belt was changed so that might be my next job. It also needs an injector seal so I might attempt both at the same time? Timing belt change apparently needs the exhaust disconnected grrr.