2001 Peugeot 206 1.1 Starter "click"

[ecohouse1]

Hi folks. My daughters 206 randomly doesn't start, the solenoid is heard to click but the starter doesn't spin. I checked the energiser wire and its getting 12V when the ignition is turned to start position. I initially thought it was a dud battery - fully charged the existing one and even substituted a known good one in - no difference. Last night while I was using it. After starting fine yesterday morning - after work - got the dreaded click! My question is - is this a common 206 issue and any clues? I am going to clean up all the connections to the starter tomorrow see if that makes a difference. If not I am assuming the starter is goosed as its a sticky solenoid.
Any advice appreciated.

[spider]

I'd go ahead with cleaning the connections (disconnect battery first! )

If it persists its likely the internal solenoid failing, the usual 'temp' fix is a piece of 2x2 unfortunately but if its no better after cleaning the leads then I'd suggest thinking about a replacement.

Don't forget to examine the other end of the heavy lead and perhaps the more 'common' issue the heavy earth lead, especially where it joins atop the gearbox as its slightly prone (it seems) to corrosion here.

[CitroJim]

Next time it happens, try running a test wire direct from the battery positive to the solenoid terminal as sometimes the problem is a high resistance in the ignition switch that causes the solenoid to receive less than the full battery supply. This is a common fault on some larger-engine PSA vehicles and causes exactly the same problem.

The answer, if this is the case, is to wire in a 'helper relay' so that the ignition switch only operates a relay that connects the solenoid directly to the battery when starting...

So often though, and battery and earth connections have been ruled out as Andy advises, it'll be the starter itself...

If I recall, the starter is not the most easiest component to replace on this engine...

[ecohouse1]

Thanks for those pointers. The starter is in a horrible location on these right at the back of the engine under the inlet manifold. I assume like other PSA's that its 3 bolts? Looks like I can see two head facing along the back of the engine and one up at the top - head facing the gearbox? Cant see the heavy current lead at the back. So will tackle that when the starter is dislodged!

I am hoping to sell the car later March/April as my daughter lost her confidence in the car last summer after a catalogue of problems, some leaving her stranded. In fairness to the little pug they were not all its fault - eg mechanic forgetting to press home a gear selector rod after new clutch and it coming adrift in the town centre. Me wrestling under the car when I Came to the rescue to pop the rod on and my trousers split right up the chuff in front of her new (posh) work, full of stock brokers who own new BMs and Audid with personal plates! Nota good day!!!

Anyways, hope I dont have to fork out on a new starter! If I can get it running with some emery paper that would be a boost. MOT due in March then off it goes with a years ticket- hopefully

I love driving it - great fun but its a 3 door and if was to keep a 206 it would be a HDI SW or a 1.4 petrol

[CitroJim]

This rough guide may help Alan...

http://ahw308.blogspot.co.uk/2010/01/di ... l-and.html

I reckon it'll be easier to go at it from underneath. Get the car raised as high as possible at the front but do make sure it's 100% secure before venturing under...

I know what you mean about daughters loosing confidence in cars.. My Robyn had a 206 and after a spate of minor problems with it she lost her confidence...

They are a fun little car though...

Her confidence in her 207 is now severely shaken with the intermittent cutting-out problem it has... I just hope I can find something positive to fix on it...

[spider]

The starter is not too bad once you've whipped the airbox and pipework out the way. To be fair the last one I changed on a TU was a monopoint injection one with the big vertical 'toilet roll' filter, but I'd guess once the plumbing and if necessary battery (maybe tray as well) are moved it should not be too much trouble.

[ecohouse1]

Got the job done and access was pretty rubbish. I was able to get the two back bolts out from underneath with a long extender bar out to the o/s wheel arch and the front bolt out from under the cluster of pipes. The main cable was a pain. You can barely see it and my socket kept falling off! Bench tested the old starter and scrap - main starter worked but the solenoid was duff. It was actually showing 12V on the exciter tab when main lead was attached to the solenoid and it was very warm, so must have been some internal short. I took the starter to a local dismantlers to get another and interestingly the one that came off didnt match any of the other 1.1s that they had on the shelves. Took one from a 1.1 106 2002 and it is SO much better than the original - smoother and engages better. I think the old one was a wrong fitment. It always sounded crashy and rough. The pinion cogs was only half engaging with the flywheel. Success!

However victory was short lived when I them noticed that both the inner and outer d/s gaiters were leaking grease That little car keeps generating jobs. To top it all off I managed to drop a very heavy jack cradle on my middle finger fracturing the end!! Youch. All purple and blue now! Time to order the boots for the D/S

[CitroJim]

Good to hear you successfully swapped starters Alan. I know the kind of 'fun' you had with the job so well. Shades of doing the job on a Pug 205...

So sorry to hear of the extra jobs you found and the injury. Hope that soon heals up...

On the Driveshaft front, a cone and stretchy boot is what you need.. Some have tried and found the split 'repair' boots OK but I've never enjoyed any success wit them at all... It's the cone every time for me.

[ecohouse1]

Thanks Jim. The inner boot seemed to holding the d/s together! It's an odd design with three "ears" on the inside to correspond to the three hollows in the shaft inner joint. I have the cone. They are great and I usually use spray grease to lubricate it. took the shaft off yesterday and will sort next weekend.

[RichardW]

That's std for the inner joint - it provides more 'slide' than it does 'articulation'. Be very careful with it when the boot is off though - the rollers on the end like to fall off and spill hundreds of needle rollers everywhere!! If you've got the shaft off the car you might as well pop the CV joint off and fit normal boots.

[spider]

I too have never had much luck with the split 'repair' boots as the last ones I tried many years ago, well you had to glue them together. Trouble is its quite difficult due to the potential for grease there. Some other types have tiny bolts along the length which do work but I'm unsure on their availability for FWD cars.

Regarding the 206 boots, the factory ones go rock hard and pop off normally. I used to see a lot of these, customers wished to just have grease and a new clip however despite trying various types of clip (as well as the factory ones) once the boot had reached a certain hardening stage it was pointless it would pop off within a short time.

The 'megatech' (I think) stretchy boots are awesome and highly recommended. We did have an air powered tool to stretch them but it to be honest was easier to lube the cone up and use that in one straight 'push' to get them on. I do not recall ever having one of these boots leak or split except where someone had fitted one and pinched the boot itself with the clip. The correct clips are recommended (strongly) for these type of boots if you can get them. From memory I think they were box's of 10 or 20.