306 1.9 TD Fuel Pump Issues

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AndyY
Posts: 2
Joined: 02 Jan 2004, 17:30

306 1.9 TD Fuel Pump Issues

Post by AndyY » 02 Jan 2004, 17:41

I'd just like to start by saying hello [:)]
After owning 205 GTI's/MI16's in many states of tune over the last 4 years I made the mistake of buying a 306 TD with only 33,000 miles on and a log book that backed up the history with in intent of many years trouble free cheap economy motoring. How mistaken I was.
Middle of december it developed a coolant system problem and exibited all the signs of a blown head gasket. I stripped the engine down and found that the gasket wasn't sealing properly and was allowing air to leak past, it was fitted with a non OE head gasket and exhibited signs that it has been messed with (oh god here we go)
Anyway I refitted the skimmed head which was as bent as a 9 bob note, fitted the proper headgasket and went to start it but had no joy [:(!] I eventually tacked the problem down to the diesel pump (lucas), fuel was reaching the inlet side fine however it neither came out of the end of the high pressure pipes nor did any reach the return. I took the pump off and took it to a specialist as it is fitted with peugeots stupid keypad imobiliser. They said it was the anti theft computer and replaced it. Yesterday I refitted it all and got exactly the same [:(!] No fuel to either the return or the injectors.
The hand pump works fine and I can bleed out of the inlet nipple thing, however it goes no further. Does anybody have any idea what this could be as it's quite frustraiting especially considering if I hadn't spent the money on the I could have got even more power out of my 205 although at the cost of yet more economy [:)]
Thanks in advance.

Dave Burns
Posts: 1916
Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
x 2

306 1.9 TD Fuel Pump Issues

Post by Dave Burns » 03 Jan 2004, 01:28

So you can't be getting the green light on the keypad then, what does it do.
I assume it was all working ok before you started work on the head, if so why come to the conclusion that a fault must have developed in it when it wasn't in use at the time.
Dave

AndyY
Posts: 2
Joined: 02 Jan 2004, 17:30

306 1.9 TD Fuel Pump Issues

Post by AndyY » 04 Jan 2004, 04:36

Well I do get the green light on the keypad however i'm not sure how the pump nor this anti theft system works.
It was all okay before I started working on the head, it was in pieces for 2 weeks though as I had other time commitments and I know electrics are funny if you don't use them for a few weeks and leave them outside in freezing damp conditions so I saw no reason why it wouldn't be the the imobiliser system.
It could possibly be air in the system however it seems very difficult to remove.

Dave Burns
Posts: 1916
Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
x 2

306 1.9 TD Fuel Pump Issues

Post by Dave Burns » 04 Jan 2004, 20:17

If you got the green light before taking the pump off then I wouldn't think there was much wrong with it, and since nothing has changed the original difficulty would still seem to exist, which I presume is only air in the system.
The immobiliser prevents the fuel stop solenoid being hot wired by a would be car thief, there are four wires going to the pumps onboard electronics that convey both keypad data and the power to lift the solenoid, when the correct code is typed in the immobiliser electronics fitted to the pump energise the stop solenoid via a power transister, thus you can't simply put power across any or all of the four feed wires and hope to start the engine.
The electronics and the stop solenoid are protected by a hardened steel cover, this is also bolted on using shear head bolts making access to the electrics all but impossible without removal of the pump first.
The immobiliser can if wished be removed all together, you would then simply require a 12 volt feed direct to the stop solenoid via the ignition switch, but doing this will make the car easy to pinch.
Pull the plug from the glow relay to reduce battery drain, switch on ignition and type in the code, you must have only the green light in the keypad illuminated, then go and pump the hand primer and bleed the fuel up to the pump, then close the bleed nipple and pump further until resistance is felt, then loosen all injector unions and crank the engine in 10 second bursts with a 20 second interval between them (this will help cool the starter motor between bursts) untill fuel emerges at the open unions.
If you get someone to type the code in for you while you listen to the pump, you should hear the solenoid click as it opens confirming correct operation, don't however mistake the heater relay click for the solenoid, for this reason it is also wise to pull the plug from the glow relay to prevent it clicking.
Dave