806 2l hdi cutting out when driving

[dyte2004]

Hi all my name is david I'm new to the forum I drive a older 2000 806 2l hdi
But recently I'm having some probs , when driving and I floor it to pass or pick up speed the engine cuts out when I go over around 3400rpm it will restart no problem but with the engine management light on the light goes off again with a few on and off turns with the ignition I had the faults read and there was 3 egr , 1maf,high fuel pressure and a glow plug fault and crank shaft sensor fault ,but I am not convinced any off these are causing it to stall/cut out ,I can't here the pump in the tank running when I turn the ignition on and I disconnected to fuel lines to check the filter after reconecting the filter the car refused to start ,I dissconected to pipes again but when the key was turned there was no fuel getting to the filter so I positioned the car on a slope front facing down and it started,again the car runs ok when driven like an old man and there seems no lose of power and when stationary it will rev as hard as you like it's only under loads it cuts out would it run like this if the pump in the tank was dead is there a way of testing the pump /relay what's your thoughts I understand the other faults will need sorting too but this one is the priority ,also will a basic generic obd 2 tool read basic faults on these I don't want to be paying the garage every time I want to clear them to check for new ones
Thanks
David

[spider]

Not all of them have an intank lift pump.

You should in theory be able to feel / hear it but that's not always possible as the HDi is not quiet.

I'd assume its the same as the other models, lift the rear seat cushion bases and see if there's a large plastic plug on the floor underneath that you can usually get to the pump / wiring. In some cases a gentle tap (gentle) can get them going again. You could try this.

I think they'll tend to keep running if its already running if the lift pump fails as there's sufficient flow to keep the high pressure pump supplied, this is why I suspect they tend to fail when they are started ie its got to 'work' to get the fuel up.

[dyte2004]

ok ok ,when out there and disconnected the plug going to the tank and put my meter across terminals 3 and 4, ignition on voltage up to 13v for 3 seconds then back to 2.8v normal priming voltages i think thought to myself just try starting it with the pump disconnected and yep runs just the same with no connection to pump. voltage at 14.4 with engine running so looks very much like the pump has failed ,the 806 does not have a inspection hole the tank needs dropping to access the pump,it does start no problem but i suspect it wont if the fuel level in the tank gets low

[spider]

The few seconds 'power' is normal same as petrol injection units, thats to ensure there's some priming there. It does not run all the time to save the battery and to prevent fuel spillage in accidents, although having said that the danger is a bit lower with having derv pumped out compared to petrol but better it does not in any case I think. It should have voltage when the engine is running though.

I'd go with a new pump if you can obtain one. I'm not familiar with the 806 layout as its a long time since I saw one, annoying that you might have to drop the tank for access though, other models can usually be done from the relative comfort of the rear seating area.

[dyte2004]

Yeh the fact it runs the same with the pump unplugged leads me to the pump plus I can't here it ,it's not so bad dropping the take but will be a pain to drain without a working pump

[dyte2004]

Ok for anyone who is interested , the fault was indeed the tank pump and wow I said before there was no power loss with the fault but boy was I wrong huge increase in power,pump was possible weak for a while, the tank had to be removed to do the job but is easy on a 806 ,4 bolts , filer,fuel pipes , pump cables and tank breathers and it drops strait down

[spider]

Excellent

[dyte2004]

ok so the car is running absolutely fine no light on the dash, plenty grunt but p0230 is still showing even after clearing the faults would a faulty rail pressure sensor cause this ?