how do you bleed clutch on Pug 206 1.4 HDI 2004?

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flying clutchman
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Re: how do you bleed clutch on Pug 206 1.4 HDI 2004?

Post by flying clutchman »

It's always best to gravity bleed to start. Just open th bleed nipple and let fluid dribble out. The pedal must be in the fully UP position for the fluid to flow through the system. If neccessary wege a spanner under it to make sure. Once you have a nice puddle of fluid on the floor attach a one-way bleed tube and pump the pedal steadily 3-4 times. During all this the resevoir MUST be kept topped up. The clutch should have full pressure now after a few pumps.
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Re: how do you bleed clutch on Pug 206 1.4 HDI 2004?

Post by avamotor »

I have a new cylinder from Peugeot to fit in better weather, i also checked that all fingers are "just" about flat, its just the bleeding business that tripping me up, when i tried to bleed it after i put the gearbox on (first time around) the pedal lost all pressure and turned out to hide air behind the piston on the slave cylinder rather than dispel it.

I tried to back bleed it by attaching a pipe the the brake caliper cracking it open and on clean fluid running the pipe i attached it to the clutch bleed screw and at first still nothing, got fed up went in and trawled the internet until i found a site explaining to force the slave cylinder piston fully home to ensure all air is dispelled from the system, tried next day and loads of bubbles ran out and some then i had some pressure back in the clutch but still had a crunch in reverse and very notchy in first, all other gears were copeable.

Gearbox off due to the crack, took it back for repair (thanks courier man, needed it damaged, not) new clutch back off for both comparison of the old unit and new, measured right diameter, obviously thicker clutch plate friction material wise (hence assumption of fingers bound to be flat until worn in) etc.

I then put on the new clutch again, lined up and using new clutch bolts again, all torqued up, gear box back on (now repaired and holding 2litres of oil =D> ) tried again to bleed clutch and can now only presume that "air in the system" is the cause of the dodgy reverse crunch and notchy first or at least until it wears.

Hopefully we may see dry weather this weekend to swap the clutch slave cylinder and hopefully bleed the system.

From advice so far then, the best way to do this is:-

1) Clean length of tube and suitable sized receptacle to hold the discharge brake fluid placed higher than the slave cylinder but lower than the master cylinder

2) ensure fluid level is topped up with no bubbles, crack open bleed screw using 11mm spanner(??)

3) just let fluid run for fun free of air either gravity way OR have someone operate the pedal and tighten up at the end of each depression

4) continue to top up bubble free and then also manually press in clutch slave cylinder piston to ensure the system is air free, continue to bleed with piston depressed and wind up with working clutch hopefully

is this correct?.
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