Fuel Pump 106

[Foggyoutcome]

Theres a little blue plastic bit behind the lucas pump, any one know what the part number is?

It's broken ive done a temp fix with zip tyes but would like a more permanent solution. Garages are asking crazy prices, saying the part does not exist on it's own.

The car started losing power at high revs is this due to the plastic bit coming disconnected or a fuel filter problem?

[spider]

I *think* I know the item you mean, it is not available separately from the dealer. A Lucas or diesel specialist will have one along with scrapyards.

I'm basing this on my old TD that had a Lucas pump, as there was an 'arm' on the back of it.

Personally I'd go to the scrapyard to obtain one from another Lucas pump.

[Foggyoutcome]

I was thinking along the same lines as the scrappy, ting is they look the type to pop in but break when you try and take them out, maybe wrong , give it a go anyway.

Would you know if this would cause fuel starvation at high revs?

[CitroJim]

Would you know if this would cause fuel starvation at high revs?

Possibly it might feel like that. It's part of the advance mechanism so with the link disconnected you're not getting the proper advance characteristic.

[Foggyoutcome]

I've sorted the link and stuff new filters in. Its having trouble still, it wont pull off without stalling. I get get it started by reving it it will cut out. I can reverse but then first gear it stalls. Maybe this is something to do with the revs being to low.
The idle is set at 800 revs i think this is abit slow and will find a way of upping the revs but i feel i have a bigger problem on my hands here than first expected.
Is there an intank strainer on this model that could be causing this problem?

[spider]

They have a gauze in the sender unit area yes.

Do you have any clear fuel piping around the pump ? , no sign of air in that is there ? , the fuel can turn a milky white if its really badly suffering from air ingress. If its white then its likely to not run though.

Put your hand around the back of the fuel filter area too. The plastic thermovavle (a white piece of plastic) is fitted here, that can sometimes draw in air. Just check to ensure there's no sign of fuel leakage, probably easiest to check after the engine has been stopped for a few minutes (check it without it running)

The idle speed on the Lucas pump is the small (8mm? I think) nut on the small "stop" control arm on the top. The large screw the accelerator control cable is connected to is the anti stall, that may want a tweak afterwards. I've never used the proper shim method I've always just set the idle and antistall manually, never had anyone shout about it either.

An idle speed of around 850 rpm when warm should be enough though.

I would expect it to run and idle even with a choked strainer though it just would not go far above idle if it was really bad due to lack of fuel. Does it rev cleanly at at standstill ? And does it idle smoothly ?

[CitroJim]

I'd say fuel starvation or an air leak as the most likely cause.

I've also known it be caused by a gummy metering needle inside the pump but if it's this then likely the fault will be apparent even when the engine is revved off-load...

Andy, your two questions will aid greatly in diagnosis...

[Foggyoutcome]

I've seemed to of fixed the problem for now, time will tell, it's running fine for now. The auto choke is not working so i've upped the revs to 1000rpm on idle.
It was still doing the same though so i disconnecting all sensors and then turned the key intill lights go on, left like it for 10 secs then turned off, repeated 4 times . Did this with the sensors in as well as out then i disconnected the battery for 5 mins, powered her up and all is fine. For now, i do hope this is the end of it although i felt the car ran slightly smoother while i pumped the primer while the car was running, causing me to think the intank strainer is gonna need doing. That's for another day.