Bosch fuel pump specifics

[nametooshort]

Good morning folks.

I am starting to gather parts for converting my 1.8d 305 to Bosch injection, I have been steadily looking for donors for a while since I posted my last thread on the subject, but nothing too good has appeared, until now, I found a perfect candidate, a Fiat Ducato which dropped a rod through the side of the block (for some reason?!).

That thing has a 1.9 n/a XUD engine, I didn't even know that line of vans had a 1.9 model, I thought they were all 2.4 or 2.5 or something, but it seems there WAS a ducato/boxer/jumper with a XUD. Hmm, as great as the XUD is...perhaps one of these vans with only a 1.9 n/a is a little slow?

So anyways, I bought the injection gear from it (and possibly the engine block too, for a coffee table, since it has a very impressive hole in it. I wish I drank coffee).

Rather then remove the fuel pump and it's sprocket, I managed to get at the M8 bolt under it with a bent wrench, so I took off the whole fuel pump/fuel pump cradle assembly complete with the sprocket and fuel pump still attached, that saved me some time (it was raining where the engine was sitting!) and also preserved the timing setting, so hopefully I can use that as a approximate base setting for fitting it my my engine.

The injectors came out OK but unfortunately a few of the fuel return pipe stubs were rusted and snapped off, which is annoying, however the rest of the injectors look in OK condition, and the nozzles look good, so hopefully I can find some worn out injectors and use their tops, and use the nozzles/springs/shims from these, and then pop-test them and hope they are reasonably coherent. Anybody got any worn out/scrap injectors with OK tops?

The owner told me this is a late pump, hence all the electronics on it, but it is NOT a ecu-advanced pump, it still has old fashioned mechanical advance. Is this correct? Or have I just bought myself a very expensive paperweight?

I have a few questions about the injection pump itself tho, there are a few things that I kind of don't get about it.

First of all, on all the Bosch pumps that I have seen (early VW 1.6/1/9d), Item 1 was always just a block-off plate, however on this particular pump it has a small metal pipe that goes off onto the top of the pump, and also Part 2, which is some kind of sensor or solenoid? Can anybody tell me that the metal pipe is for, and what the electrical device Part 2 does? Part 3 is just a connection, I don't know why I even marked it (its been a long day).

On the 2nd photo, is Part 5 that throttle damper that is important on Bosch pumps, to stop the engine fluttering when you return to idle sharply. On mine, all it does is delay the throttle's progression to ide, by about 1/2 a second or thereabouts, is this all its supposed to do?
Part 4 is just a idle sensor switch as far as I understand, to tell various subsystems that the engine is now idling, and for my purposes can be ignored, is this right?

Now there is another 3 wires going into the back of the unit, shown as Part 6 in the last photo. The owner of the engine said this is an immobilizer, and that I would have to take the pump apart, and drill/cut/remove some small part (I kind of don't remember), and reassemble the pump, in order to bypass this. Is this true? Is the immobilizer on these 'smart' or 'dumb'? By that I mean, 'dumb' is basically just a glorified fuel cutoff valve, it just gets a live feed from the wiring loom, and 'smart' as in it actually gets coded information sent to it in the wires, and has to be correctly coded to the control box otherwise it will not disengage. Does anybody know much about these? I am reasonably good with electronic stuff (I am used to working with ECUs etc, since I like putting modern fuel injection into old cars), so depending on the complexity of it, I could just get it to work, but if it's very complex then I will just do that thing the owner of the engine said.

Anybody know anything about this?

Thanks!

[spider]

I've only skim read your topic will add more detail later if required.

3. Is the multiplug (see 5)

4. Is the load lever switch, basically a microswitch when the acc arm is at rest on its stop. Usually used in the ECU to control EGR and sometimes post heating.

5. is the damper on the control arm (accelerator) simply to slow the return to idle slightly, nothing else really. Can prevent stalling due to snapping it shut quickly without having to wind the anti stall up too much. Some Bosch pumps also had a damper on the front (think of a mini tailgate strut) although these did not last long, most owners binned them with no ill effect. Leave the damper though if its not causing problems.

6. Appears to be the "coded anti start module" to give it its proper title. Under that cover and the armour (!) you'll find a stop solenoid (eventually)

They are a "smart" unit, some electronics live inside the armour although in most cases a conventional stop solenoid is eventually found within. See Jim's page here > http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump2.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for some details. There is somewhere on here a thread with a lot of pics too.

[spider]

Regarding the 1.9 in the vans, yes some did have them and yes there were quite slow.

I don't think that's an electronically advanced pump but I cannot really tell to be honest not from here, a way to tell is if there was a wire fitted to an injector (iirc number 3) which would indicate that that is the case. Not a lot of help but all 406's had electronic advance, all 405's and 306's (only XUD9 with our without turbo I'm talking about) did not too. Xantia's were mixed, later ones did if I remember correctly at 1996 onwards they did, before that they did not.

[CitroJim]

Nope, that's a good old mechanical advance pump.

Andy, you're dead right on all you say. That armour is a bit of a ******* to remove though... Be sure to have new distributor head bolts on hand when you do and NEVER allow the head to come loose whilst de-armouring as you risk snapping the HP pumping element within...

Items 1 and 2 is the electrical cold start advance device. Apply 12V to the electrovalve (2) to activate it. Do not leave it in this condition after the coolant reaches 60 degrees.

4 is the glowplug post-heating/cold advance cancel switch. Both cold start and glowplug post heating is disabled if the load lever is advanced more than 1/3 open when cold advance/post-heating is in operation by the operation of this switch.

[spider]

Thanks Jim. I actually threw the cold advance solenoid out of my 205TD as it used to stick on (!) , I had no real issue without it either just was not quite as quiet as it should be until it got slightly warm. I did test this by just disconnecting it and ensuring it was shut for a few days, then binned it and replaced it with the NA blanking plug.

But its working I'd leave it it does help a little bit same as post heating (again useful but not *essential*)

Jim, regarding the distributor head bolts, unless I'm mistaken which is likely as I cannot quite see from the pic, carefully removing the one outlet / adaptor that's in the way of the bolt then tackling said shear bolt and replacing it with a replacement bolt (or a saved shear bolt with a slot cut into the head) would work yes ? , as the head would be held OK with everything else. I'm just sort of thinking aloud really, ie do the 'difficult' one under the port first, put the outlet adaptor back straight away then go around the others. There is a really good thread somewhere with a lot of close up pics of this area. I'll try to fish it out to help the OP.

[CitroJim]

Jim, regarding the distributor head bolts, unless I'm mistaken

Nope not mistaken, you're absolutely spot-on Andy

[nametooshort]

Well, good news guys, I got the immobilizer out.

Instead of trying to undo the tamper-proof bolts (they were ALL hardened on mine for some reason, nut just the one), I just carefully cut off the armored bulge the holds the immobilizer. Took 2 angle grinder blades and about 10 mins, but bas successful. Will post photos etc when I have some time.