Mot Work

[Ross]

Morning all - the car is a S Reg 406 1.9 TD Estate - went to the Mot and it failed on two rear panhard rods, front anti roll bar drop link and front ball joint
I haven't a manual and can't access a piture of the rear suspension or the manual on the web ( and haven't even been under the car yet )
The panhard rods and drop link look pretty straightforward to fit as does the ball joint but ar there any major issues or problema likely to occur ?
One last thing - how do you access the rear number plate light to change the bulbs

Thanks for the anticioated help
Ross

[Harlequin]

drop links should be straight forward - as long as they havent siezed on (like mine) , undo top from anti roll bar and bottom from sub frame - make sure though the replacement actually fits - GSF sent me 2 for mine and they are 20mm too long (but its the same part number sir so its not our fault!!) ....

[citronut]

i didnt think they fail drop links as yet unless one end has poped off completly, and the new rules rega5rding rubber boots/gaitors dont come in till January 2012,

the No. plate lamp if i remember are cap less and useing a small plane bladed screw driver just pick the lens out of the holder,

the bulbe are very hard to get hold of unless you have tinny complete fingers,

regards malcolm

[Harlequin]

some places have allready started doing the new mot - and not issuing a certificate either just a reciept and on computer

[Peter.N.]

As mentioned they are fairly easy to remove as long as they haven't rusted - mine had and I eventually got one off by grinding through the ball on the inner end. Give the threads a good clean with a wire brush followed by a squirt od WD40 followed by some engine oil. If you put a load on the joints either by levering them up/down or sideways it will tend to grip the ball tighter, you need to do this with a long bar 3' to 4' to get enough pressure.

Peter

[citronut]

if they are rusted on i cut down through the swivle pin shank and nut till the nut falls off, but mind not to cut into the points the eyes the pins come through,


regards malcolm

[Ross]

It all went from bad to worse over the weekend - but effectively I am unable to shift the o/s ball joint and in desperation am taking off the hub to allow me to remove the balljoint on a bench
During the process of trying to remove the ball joint whilst it was hanging on the strut the drive shaft popped out of what appears to be the central support bearing - does this just push into the bearing to join the other half of the drive shaft ?
Is the hub just pinched onto the strut
Is it an easy (lol) matter to remove the hub from the splines once disconnected
Does anyone know what the torque setting is for the drive shaft nut
Thanks
ROss

[citronut]

the drive shaft will have pulled apart at the centre triack joint,
if your lucky the three triack bearings have stayed in place on the end of the shaft that came away,
if not you will need to retrieve all the needle roller bearings that will be hiding in the grease inside the gaiter and probably everywhere,

after re/assembly of all the needle rollers it is just a case of put it back into the triack cup/housing, at the intermediate bearing housing, then re/doing the gaiter strapping,

it is just a pinch clamp/bolt holding the hub carrier to the strut,

I don't have the hub nut torque setting to hand but it is FT tight

regards malcolm

[Harlequin]

i got a new cv joint from J&R for £18 for my 806 , they also do complete drive shafts for a reasonable price as well

[CitroJim]

i didnt think they fail drop links as yet unless one end has poped off completly, and the new rules rega5rding rubber boots/gaitors dont come in till January 2012

I got an advisory on my HDi for droplinks when it was MOT'd a couple of weeks ago. They were a bit noisy but boots were fine and I could detect no play but he was right though...

The driveshaft will need a gentle tap to free its splines from the hub. Sometimes more than a gentle tap if damp has penetrated and corrosion has set in. Then replace the nut loosely and wang the end with a club hammer after spraying a bit of Plus Gas in there. You must replace the nuts before getting heavy with a hammer otherwise you risk burring and deforming the threads.

Always best to attack swivel joints in a big vice on a bench and don't forget they're staked down (metal punched into slots to prevent them undoing) This staking must be totally freed before you'll stand a chance of undoing one. They're always FT because Loctite is sued on them and over time, moisture creeps in and corrosion sets in to hold them even tighter...

[spider]

I used to use a block of wood and a large hammer to assist the driveshaft out. We did have a tool to push it in (used two bolt holes) but it was easier with the wood to be honest.

Regarding the ball joints, although not practical at home, you can unscrew them with a tool, its different to the 405 one, think of a socket with few lugs poking out to 'slot into' the cutouts on the ball joint itself. With an airgun you could change them in an instant with this tool in 99% of cases.

EDIT... I missed this topic initially somehow when it was first posted, I don't have any data to hand although I can probably furnish you with some rear suspension pics tomorrow.

[citronut]

i didnt think they fail drop links as yet unless one end has poped off completly, and the new rules rega5rding rubber boots/gaitors dont come in till January 2012

I got an advisory on my HDi for droplinks when it was MOT'd a couple of weeks ago. They were a bit noisy but boots were fine and I could detect no play but he was right though...

yes Jim they have/are advissing them for play but only fail them at the moment if one end has completly popped off,

and the new rules are comming in in January 2012,

regards malcolm

[Ross]

And the latest - Peugeot 1 - Me 0 - -having tried to shift the driveshaft nut with absolutely no chance of success or movement despite me standing on the socket bar (23 stone) I have completely removed the hub and drive shaft and its going over to the local garage to see if they can shift the hub nut and ball joint.

Does anyone know what the torque setting is for the hub nut ? (promise ~I will buy a manual)

Thanks
Ross

[RichardW]

Hub nut should not be that tight - about 240lb ft. I (about 200lb) just stand on a 2ft breaker bar at just over half way and that is tight enough. They can be tough to get undone though if they haven't been off, or if garage monkey has been at them with the highest torque windy gun they could find....

[Ross]

Got to share this - got home yesterday and started to price up the inner gaiter on the offside inboard CV gaiter which split when the driveshaft fell out of the joint - the local shop didn't have it listed and suggested I telephone Peugeot - gave em a ring and they quoted "About £45.00 plus vat" LMAO - maybe I just got an uninterested SPares Man but he was pretty sure this was the price - eventually got one from Eurospares Rayleigh for about £20 - they have gone up a bit though.
Gonna strip down the driveshaft tonicht and get it ready for fitting -
Trouble is I start at 0600 and get home at 1900 so everything seems to take a lot longer

Happy Days