Seeks to idle at 1100prm when hot but will sometimes idle at 1300 or anything inbetween and is not happy at below 900 when hot.
If I reduce the 1100prm idle it will continually stall when idling cold. Any ideas please?
Poor idling in 1.9 205 GTi 1989.
Moderator: RichardW
Poor idling in 1.9 205 GTi 1989.
Cheers!
John
John
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CitroJim
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As an ex-205GTi owner I know all about poor idle 
As Andy says, the multitude of pipes will be the cause. Also, take the SAD* off and give it a good old clean out. It gets full of mayo, as does all the breather pipes so do those as well. They're the ones between the oil pot lid and the throttle body.
An oft overlooked cause of an air leak is the small pipe between the throttle body and the vacuum advance capsule on the distributor. They perish badly and being hidden, it's not easy to see...
You'll never, ever get a GTi to idle really well. The lumpy cam and Bosch LE Jetronic sees to that quite effectively.
If the problem persists, check the mixture at idle and throughout the rev range using a CO meter. The spring in the AFM weakens over time and upsets things. Adjust it with extreme care though.
Also, check the idle contact in the throttle switch is properly closing at idle and that when idling, the throttle butterfly is totally closed to ensure all idle air enters the engine via the bypass passage and not the butterfly. A lot of people try to cure poor idle by tampering with the butterfly and switch adjustments and really upsetting things.
Wear on the butterfly spindle can also cause poor idle.
Finally, it's not a bad idea to ensure the electrical side of the SAD* is working properly.
I spent a long time getting mine to idle and in the end it was not bad. Not good but not too bad...
* Supplementary Air Device, AKA warm-up regulator AKA idle control valve (although it only adds air when cold to up the natural idle speed).
As Andy says, the multitude of pipes will be the cause. Also, take the SAD* off and give it a good old clean out. It gets full of mayo, as does all the breather pipes so do those as well. They're the ones between the oil pot lid and the throttle body.
An oft overlooked cause of an air leak is the small pipe between the throttle body and the vacuum advance capsule on the distributor. They perish badly and being hidden, it's not easy to see...
You'll never, ever get a GTi to idle really well. The lumpy cam and Bosch LE Jetronic sees to that quite effectively.
If the problem persists, check the mixture at idle and throughout the rev range using a CO meter. The spring in the AFM weakens over time and upsets things. Adjust it with extreme care though.
Also, check the idle contact in the throttle switch is properly closing at idle and that when idling, the throttle butterfly is totally closed to ensure all idle air enters the engine via the bypass passage and not the butterfly. A lot of people try to cure poor idle by tampering with the butterfly and switch adjustments and really upsetting things.
Wear on the butterfly spindle can also cause poor idle.
Finally, it's not a bad idea to ensure the electrical side of the SAD* is working properly.
I spent a long time getting mine to idle and in the end it was not bad. Not good but not too bad...
* Supplementary Air Device, AKA warm-up regulator AKA idle control valve (although it only adds air when cold to up the natural idle speed).
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...