My heater mixer flaps have stuck in the cold position. Could be stuck
flaps or knackered motor. This is not going to be an issue for the
summer but I need to fix it ready for cooler weather.
Please can anyone tell me where the motor /mixer flaps are located and
the best route in. I've had part of the dash off near the controls
before but this did not look too promising for access to the heater
works.
Maybe dive from the glove box region?
Any guidance most welcome
TIA
Bob
UK model Right hand drive
1995 405 heater flap problem
Moderator: RichardW
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robertminchin
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- Location: United Kingdom
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robertminchin
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 30 May 2003, 02:40
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
It might be considered to be bad form to reply to your own posting but it may help someone else.
In the following, the vehicle is a Uk right hand drive
The hot/cold flap motor is mounted on the drivers side of the heater housing.
Remove the carpet covered trim running from the clutech pedal area to the air outlet grille near the left hand side of the drivers seat.
There is one torx screw by the clutch pedal. It is difficult to see but can be felt.
Remove the screw and the rest can be pulled away. remove the under dash trim panel on drivers side and the cowling around the steering column.
Two screws hold the motor to a mounting frame and a further two screws hold the frame to the heater body.
Remove the motor and unplug the 5 way connector.The motor can be tested. Two pins are for the motor, change polarity to reverse direction. The other three pins are a 10 kilom variable resistor which tell the Heater/aircon ECU where the flap is.
Make sure the flap is free to move inside the heater. Gravity will hold it in the Cold position, but if the fan is on full, the airflow will hold it in full hot or full cold position.
If the motor is working OK the plug the 5 way connector in and with the engine running, move the temp control slowly from cold to hot and back. you should find a position where the motor does not turn and below that temperature setting, the motor should turn one way and similarly above this setting , the motor turns the other way.
If this test fails, then the ECU is probably faulty. It is located under the heater just above the carpet level. There is one screw on the drivers side and is reasonably
accessible but the nearside was a real pig to get out as it is obscured by the gearchange rod. Both screws are 6mm A/F hex head with pozi recess too.
If you have a right angle screw driver, then this helps otherwise a long slim 6mm ring spanner is a must.
If you have electronics expertise, then you can try repairing the ECU (which is the stage I am at) otherwise get your pug agent to test it for you.
Hope this helps
Bob
In the following, the vehicle is a Uk right hand drive
The hot/cold flap motor is mounted on the drivers side of the heater housing.
Remove the carpet covered trim running from the clutech pedal area to the air outlet grille near the left hand side of the drivers seat.
There is one torx screw by the clutch pedal. It is difficult to see but can be felt.
Remove the screw and the rest can be pulled away. remove the under dash trim panel on drivers side and the cowling around the steering column.
Two screws hold the motor to a mounting frame and a further two screws hold the frame to the heater body.
Remove the motor and unplug the 5 way connector.The motor can be tested. Two pins are for the motor, change polarity to reverse direction. The other three pins are a 10 kilom variable resistor which tell the Heater/aircon ECU where the flap is.
Make sure the flap is free to move inside the heater. Gravity will hold it in the Cold position, but if the fan is on full, the airflow will hold it in full hot or full cold position.
If the motor is working OK the plug the 5 way connector in and with the engine running, move the temp control slowly from cold to hot and back. you should find a position where the motor does not turn and below that temperature setting, the motor should turn one way and similarly above this setting , the motor turns the other way.
If this test fails, then the ECU is probably faulty. It is located under the heater just above the carpet level. There is one screw on the drivers side and is reasonably
accessible but the nearside was a real pig to get out as it is obscured by the gearchange rod. Both screws are 6mm A/F hex head with pozi recess too.
If you have a right angle screw driver, then this helps otherwise a long slim 6mm ring spanner is a must.
If you have electronics expertise, then you can try repairing the ECU (which is the stage I am at) otherwise get your pug agent to test it for you.
Hope this helps
Bob