Gearbox oil
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- myglaren
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Gearbox oil
Can anyone hazard a guess at which gearbox is fitted to my son's 'R'-reg 306 D-Turbo and how much Total BV 75W80 it needs for refilling please?
- CitroJim
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BE3 Steve and it needs 1.7 litres of Total's finest 75W/80
No need to guess the level as it has a combined fill/level plug. Look for the 19mm headed bolt on the end of the gearbox, one of the many holding the tin end cover on although there is only one 19mm one. Remove it and fill until oil dribbles out.
The filling is a bit tricky but the use of the spouted squirty bottle that gearbox oil so often comes in works OK. Otherwise, use a funnel oj the end of a piece of tube.
No need to guess the level as it has a combined fill/level plug. Look for the 19mm headed bolt on the end of the gearbox, one of the many holding the tin end cover on although there is only one 19mm one. Remove it and fill until oil dribbles out.
The filling is a bit tricky but the use of the spouted squirty bottle that gearbox oil so often comes in works OK. Otherwise, use a funnel oj the end of a piece of tube.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- myglaren
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Ooops.
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R4, R11TXE, R14, R30TX - x 4888
Thanks Jim, going to change the oil as we can't be certain when it was last done, if ever, and he's is moaning about stiff gearchanges - I drove it last week and couldn't find any difference to it and he has always claimed to prefer it's somewhat 'firm' gearchange, as opposed to mine that is very light and slick.
He has also been moaning about vibration from his new tyres (Toyo) as the fitter couldn't balance them - balancing machine broke and awaiting parts from the US. I ran it around on the dual carriageways near home, up and down hills, around a variety of roundabouts at low and high speeds and found no fault whatsoever. He seems to have an overactive imagination.
It is time for a service and approaching MOT so a reasonable excuse to drain and refill the box. If it doesn't do any good it can't do any harm (hopefully). I'll get some ordered from AEP, I think.
He has also been moaning about vibration from his new tyres (Toyo) as the fitter couldn't balance them - balancing machine broke and awaiting parts from the US. I ran it around on the dual carriageways near home, up and down hills, around a variety of roundabouts at low and high speeds and found no fault whatsoever. He seems to have an overactive imagination.
It is time for a service and approaching MOT so a reasonable excuse to drain and refill the box. If it doesn't do any good it can't do any harm (hopefully). I'll get some ordered from AEP, I think.
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Just serviced his car but haven't done the gearbox (yet).
Is there a drain plug for the box? Had a quick look and had largely forgotten this thread, looked for a drain & filler plug but nothing jumped out at me other than a plastic cap close to the lowest point that I don't want to touch until I know what it is.
Is there a drain plug for the box? Had a quick look and had largely forgotten this thread, looked for a drain & filler plug but nothing jumped out at me other than a plastic cap close to the lowest point that I don't want to touch until I know what it is.
- CitroJim
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The drain plug, Steve, is on the lowest part of the diff housing. Normally a 21mm hex with a square in the middle of it... It faces toward the subframe and is quite hard to see at a glance as it is actually on the back of the curved face of the diff housing.
Level plug is the sole 19mm member of the set of bolts holding the tin end cover on...
Level plug is the sole 19mm member of the set of bolts holding the tin end cover on...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- myglaren
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Ooops.
Previously:
2009 Honda Civic :(
C5, C5, Xantia, BX, GS, Visa.
R4, R11TXE, R14, R30TX - x 4888
Still haven't refilled the gearbox. It failed the MOT on about a thousand points with a page of advisories too, so it has had the subframe replaced, new ball joints, the load sensing valve overhauled, 20 miles of brake pipes, new rear brake cylinders etc. etc. + new rear tyres. Front ones changed six~8 weeks ago.
There is still a lot of travel on the handbrake lever and I'm damned if I can work out where the adjuster is. Any clues gratefully accepted as it's going for re-MOT tomorrow or Tuesday.
Still work to be done and it needs a Waxoil bath before next autumn arrives.
There is still a lot of travel on the handbrake lever and I'm damned if I can work out where the adjuster is. Any clues gratefully accepted as it's going for re-MOT tomorrow or Tuesday.
Still work to be done and it needs a Waxoil bath before next autumn arrives.
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Im thought the handbrake adjustment is under the centre console, to the rear of the handbrake lever itself? Or im sure thats where it is on ZXs and the 306 is the same car.
That was quite a long list of failures!
How often are gearbox oils recommended to be replaced on manuals? Most manufacturers seem to think they are sealed for life, but that cant do them any good!
That was quite a long list of failures!
How often are gearbox oils recommended to be replaced on manuals? Most manufacturers seem to think they are sealed for life, but that cant do them any good!
Chris
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- myglaren
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Ooops.
Previously:
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C5, C5, Xantia, BX, GS, Visa.
R4, R11TXE, R14, R30TX - x 4888
I'll go and have another look, must be mising something.Citroenmad wrote:Im thought the handbrake adjustment is under the centre console, to the rear of the handbrake lever itself? Or im sure thats where it is on ZXs and the 306 is the same car.
I could see the cables running from the lever to the drums but expected a yoke under the car to adjust it. It is better than before all the work was done but still a few too many clicks. The shoes are up tight too, binding ever so slightly but the brakes are rather poor, despite new pads and new rear cylinders - shoes must have been OK or they would have changed them.
I'll say! He was shocked that it could have deteriorated so much in a year.
That was quite a long list of failures!
Couldn't say. He thinks the gearchange is stiff so we are changing it as if it doesn't help it won't hurt.
How often are gearbox oils recommended to be replaced on manuals? Most manufacturers seem to think they are sealed for life, but that cant do them any good!
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Yes, try looking under the trim, probably easier from in the back of the car. Dont they have a ash tray on the back of the console on the 306s which pull out? If so i think its behind there, worth a look.
If its not going right t the top of the movement but the brakes are still not great then it might be handbrake cambles which are causing it.
Could be gear linkages thats making the change stiff? I wouldnt expect too much difference with an oil change.
Saying that, when we got an Xm which had been stood for 4 year the gears were almost impossible to get, very stiff. We added some diff and gear treatment and over a short time it really freed off the gear change, back to how it should be. So you might be right that an oil change is whats needed.
If its not going right t the top of the movement but the brakes are still not great then it might be handbrake cambles which are causing it.
Could be gear linkages thats making the change stiff? I wouldnt expect too much difference with an oil change.
Saying that, when we got an Xm which had been stood for 4 year the gears were almost impossible to get, very stiff. We added some diff and gear treatment and over a short time it really freed off the gear change, back to how it should be. So you might be right that an oil change is whats needed.
Chris
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- myglaren
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Ooops.
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R4, R11TXE, R14, R30TX - x 4888
Had a quick look and there is nothing in sight, what I had taken to be the cable terminations wer in fact the retaining bolts for the lever
Looks as theough the centre console has to come out and the adjuster is no doubt under the carpet under the console.
Will procrastinate a little longer before attacking that one - or leave it to the MOT man if there is too much travel to suit him.
Our thinking was that the gearbox may have been filled at some time in the past with 90wt which is reputed to kill Pug/Citroen boxes.
If that doesn't work then it is the cables/rods need seeing to.
I do recall now having to sort the rods out on the Xantia, can't remember what I did now though, although it did involve expanding the toolkit somewhat.
Looks as theough the centre console has to come out and the adjuster is no doubt under the carpet under the console.
Will procrastinate a little longer before attacking that one - or leave it to the MOT man if there is too much travel to suit him.
Our thinking was that the gearbox may have been filled at some time in the past with 90wt which is reputed to kill Pug/Citroen boxes.
If that doesn't work then it is the cables/rods need seeing to.
I do recall now having to sort the rods out on the Xantia, can't remember what I did now though, although it did involve expanding the toolkit somewhat.
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Adjusting the hand brake is really easy!
Pull up the gearstick gaiter - push the bottom of gaiter towards the front of the car and pull upwards. There are two nuts under there which need removing once the gearstick gaiter is out of the way.
Then remove the ashtray between the front seats on the back of the centre console thing, the one accessible from the rear seats, not the cup holder type thing - you open it up then it just pulls out. There are then two screws here, torx screws if I remember rightly.
Now you use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry out the part at the back of the handbrake slot - sorry I cant explain it any better
Then pull the handbrake up and you should be able to slide the centre console bit over the handbrake, it will be quite difficult and isn't strictly necessary.
Finally.. There's a flappy bit of carpet that covers the adjuster - you just tighten a nut to adjust the handbrake -, it's quite far back from the handbrake, but easily accessible with the console out.
Any more help needed just let me know. And this was all off the top of my head so it may not be 100% accurate, but I don't think I've missed anything vital!
Pull up the gearstick gaiter - push the bottom of gaiter towards the front of the car and pull upwards. There are two nuts under there which need removing once the gearstick gaiter is out of the way.
Then remove the ashtray between the front seats on the back of the centre console thing, the one accessible from the rear seats, not the cup holder type thing - you open it up then it just pulls out. There are then two screws here, torx screws if I remember rightly.
Now you use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry out the part at the back of the handbrake slot - sorry I cant explain it any better
Then pull the handbrake up and you should be able to slide the centre console bit over the handbrake, it will be quite difficult and isn't strictly necessary.
Finally.. There's a flappy bit of carpet that covers the adjuster - you just tighten a nut to adjust the handbrake -, it's quite far back from the handbrake, but easily accessible with the console out.
Any more help needed just let me know. And this was all off the top of my head so it may not be 100% accurate, but I don't think I've missed anything vital!