thinking of buyng a 306 dturbo later this year. Any major things to look out for?
going for a 1994 ish model, what would be the going price for an average mileage for that year, say 70-80K.
rhys
Buying a 306 Dturbo
Moderator: RichardW
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When looking at the car, make sure its been serviced regularly, with regular coolant changes/checks. Ask if the head gasket has ever been replaced. Check the coolant level, it should be full and a nice green/greeny-blue colour. The oil will always be black in a diesel engine of this type, but check it isnt as thick as treacle. Check the door electrics, check that the windows go up and down with the door open and closed. Check central locking works ok too.
Crouch some distance behind the car and look at the rear wheels, they should sit straight but with the smallest amount of negative camber. If they are visibly leaning in at the top, walk away, the rear beam has had it! On the drive, the engine should be pretty quiet on tick over, audible as a hum. The pick up should be brisk, with a very noticable turbo kick at around 2200 rpm upwards to about 3500 rpm. The clutch should not be overly heavy, but may be heavier to what you are previously used to. The ride should be smooth but taught, very little bodyroll in the corners. Dont be surprised if there are a few squeeks/rattles from the dashboard area. If the car has an alarm, check it works, the standard fit alarm sirens are located in the N/S wing and tend to fail.
Thats all I can think of at the moment!!
Ross
When looking at the car, make sure its been serviced regularly, with regular coolant changes/checks. Ask if the head gasket has ever been replaced. Check the coolant level, it should be full and a nice green/greeny-blue colour. The oil will always be black in a diesel engine of this type, but check it isnt as thick as treacle. Check the door electrics, check that the windows go up and down with the door open and closed. Check central locking works ok too.
Crouch some distance behind the car and look at the rear wheels, they should sit straight but with the smallest amount of negative camber. If they are visibly leaning in at the top, walk away, the rear beam has had it! On the drive, the engine should be pretty quiet on tick over, audible as a hum. The pick up should be brisk, with a very noticable turbo kick at around 2200 rpm upwards to about 3500 rpm. The clutch should not be overly heavy, but may be heavier to what you are previously used to. The ride should be smooth but taught, very little bodyroll in the corners. Dont be surprised if there are a few squeeks/rattles from the dashboard area. If the car has an alarm, check it works, the standard fit alarm sirens are located in the N/S wing and tend to fail.
Thats all I can think of at the moment!!
Ross
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shaun easton
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 11 Apr 2003, 14:14
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
dont buy a d turbo buy a normal 1.9 d i have had 3 d turbos two 306 1 zx and two 1.9ds and i have had no trouble with the 1.9s but the turbos have been trouble.if you do go for a turbo make sure that the turbo or fuel pump has not been ajusted up. there will be paint marks on the ajusters on the pump and turbo mechanisms if they all line up it hasent been messed with . if they have moved walk away the car will never be any good.......
Engine code will be in your VIN number. You've almost certainly got a DHY engine.
But if it has got to 115K without blowing up, I can't imagine it's going to throw a conrod in the future due to a manufacturing fault.
There was a lot of talk/worry about this on the Honest John forum about a year ago, but I've never read anybody have the conrod problem on this forum.
There was speculation it was due to the introduction of catalytic converters, or maybe the exhaust gas recirculation system.
Somebody even rekoned a batch of 1.9D crankshafts/conrods must have been fitted to the TDs to cause them to self destruct.
Honest John rekons they pop at about 60,000 to 80,000 miles if they're going to go.
Just keep changing that oil regular and don't thrash it from cold.
But if it has got to 115K without blowing up, I can't imagine it's going to throw a conrod in the future due to a manufacturing fault.
There was a lot of talk/worry about this on the Honest John forum about a year ago, but I've never read anybody have the conrod problem on this forum.
There was speculation it was due to the introduction of catalytic converters, or maybe the exhaust gas recirculation system.
Somebody even rekoned a batch of 1.9D crankshafts/conrods must have been fitted to the TDs to cause them to self destruct.
Honest John rekons they pop at about 60,000 to 80,000 miles if they're going to go.
Just keep changing that oil regular and don't thrash it from cold.
thanks ralph
Yep, the engine code is in the VIN number (DHY), just got confused as I thought the engine no on the V5 would have shown this, but its compleately different.
I guess the 60-80K mark for the conrods is similar to a problem with the old Ford 1.8D engines, that use to suffer from valve stick at around the same range.
I feel much better now, thanks.
Always change the oil and filters. Oil is usually Castrol GTD on the ford 1.8, but would the magnatec be a better option on the pug 1.9TD?
Chris
Yep, the engine code is in the VIN number (DHY), just got confused as I thought the engine no on the V5 would have shown this, but its compleately different.
I guess the 60-80K mark for the conrods is similar to a problem with the old Ford 1.8D engines, that use to suffer from valve stick at around the same range.
I feel much better now, thanks.
Always change the oil and filters. Oil is usually Castrol GTD on the ford 1.8, but would the magnatec be a better option on the pug 1.9TD?
Chris
Who really knows? When the XUD first came out, Haynes was recommending a 5,000 mile oil change interval using 15-40W oil, and that was on the standard engine with no turbo to worry about.
By 1998 Citroen were saying double that with 10,000 for the 1.9 td, but using thinner stuff at 10-40W or even 5-40W.
I rekon the interval was doubled in the late 90s so the XUD, which was by then an old design, would look competitve in terms of running costs/hassle factor with the new direct injection motors in VWs etc.
As for how much to pay, most of the time I've used mineral diesel oil in my 205 XUD. It's happy enough. But I've never left it in longer than 4,500 miles.
I use Millers XFE semi-synthetic in the Cit TD, but I don't go mad, it only costs £12.75 for 5 litres. After all, it's only a [high powered] van engine!
By 1998 Citroen were saying double that with 10,000 for the 1.9 td, but using thinner stuff at 10-40W or even 5-40W.
I rekon the interval was doubled in the late 90s so the XUD, which was by then an old design, would look competitve in terms of running costs/hassle factor with the new direct injection motors in VWs etc.
As for how much to pay, most of the time I've used mineral diesel oil in my 205 XUD. It's happy enough. But I've never left it in longer than 4,500 miles.
I use Millers XFE semi-synthetic in the Cit TD, but I don't go mad, it only costs £12.75 for 5 litres. After all, it's only a [high powered] van engine!
The brake pads and front brake discs are likely to need replacing on an old diesel because the engine is heavier than a petrol. This will cost about £200. The electrics are likely to fail on older models due to the corrosion on the wires. This is not possible to replace unless you've enough money to replace the wireing lube.
Can't say I agree with the prices above. Disks cost between £4 and £15 each, pads £8 to £25 depending on model, so a disk and pad change will be between £16 and £55 plus VAT. (See Andyspares shop - link above)
Even if you pay a garage to do the work (takes me about an hour to do both sides)AND get a new pad fitting kit (£7) you should have a lot of spare change from £200! If the calipers aren't dragging (which IS a common problem on the PSA non-hydraulic cars) then the brakes don't last a lot less than the equivalent petrol car.
I have seen wiring fall apart on an early XM, but this was confined to the sheathing rotting. I haven't seen it on 306/406/ZX/Xantias to any great extent - just an occcasional bad headlamp earth, in fact I've seen much worse on Saabs, Volvos and Vauxhalls.
Even if you pay a garage to do the work (takes me about an hour to do both sides)AND get a new pad fitting kit (£7) you should have a lot of spare change from £200! If the calipers aren't dragging (which IS a common problem on the PSA non-hydraulic cars) then the brakes don't last a lot less than the equivalent petrol car.
I have seen wiring fall apart on an early XM, but this was confined to the sheathing rotting. I haven't seen it on 306/406/ZX/Xantias to any great extent - just an occcasional bad headlamp earth, in fact I've seen much worse on Saabs, Volvos and Vauxhalls.
Damn I've been ripped off by quick fit again!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by arry_b</i>
Can't say I agree with the prices above. Disks cost between £4 and £15 each, pads £8 to £25 depending on model, so a disk and pad change will be between £16 and £55 plus VAT. (See Andyspares shop - link above)
Even if you pay a garage to do the work (takes me about an hour to do both sides)AND get a new pad fitting kit (£7) you should have a lot of spare change from £200! If the calipers aren't dragging (which IS a common problem on the PSA non-hydraulic cars) then the brakes don't last a lot less than the equivalent petrol car.
I have seen wiring fall apart on an early XM, but this was confined to the sheathing rotting. I haven't seen it on 306/406/ZX/Xantias to any great extent - just an occcasional bad headlamp earth, in fact I've seen much worse on Saabs, Volvos and Vauxhalls.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by arry_b</i>
Can't say I agree with the prices above. Disks cost between £4 and £15 each, pads £8 to £25 depending on model, so a disk and pad change will be between £16 and £55 plus VAT. (See Andyspares shop - link above)
Even if you pay a garage to do the work (takes me about an hour to do both sides)AND get a new pad fitting kit (£7) you should have a lot of spare change from £200! If the calipers aren't dragging (which IS a common problem on the PSA non-hydraulic cars) then the brakes don't last a lot less than the equivalent petrol car.
I have seen wiring fall apart on an early XM, but this was confined to the sheathing rotting. I haven't seen it on 306/406/ZX/Xantias to any great extent - just an occcasional bad headlamp earth, in fact I've seen much worse on Saabs, Volvos and Vauxhalls.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">