Bosch Pump body armour

Post by **KennyW** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:17

Good evening Lawrence,

Since I have rebuilt everything it is not starting at all.

I'll have to remove the pump again and check if a supply is reaching the stop solenoid and if i am going to remove it for 2nd time i might as well overhaul the pump.

Kenny

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:25

Right Kenny,

This starting to sound exactly like my encounter.

There were three wires going to immobiliser i think. One of them is of course the stop solenoid. When I connected this cable to the stop solenoid it wouldn't work.

Before you do anything else, run a cable from the battery to the stop solenoid and then crank the engine.

I cranked and cranked with it wired up correctly it just wasn't happening. trouble is you can't hear the solenoid click when turning the ignition amidst the ECU and all the other clicks!

Get back when you've tried that.

Lawrence

Post by **KennyW** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:29

Thanks for that Lawrence,

Only a minor problem

, have the battle with the body armour to deal with to get to the stop solenoid, will get back to you when iahve checked the wiring.

Kenny

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:31

Oh sorry I'm confused, I thought you'd de armoured this pump?

My brain hurts

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:47

You've put the armour back on haven't you!

I see.

Run the cable from the battery to the right pin on the black plug......

Lawrence

Post by **KennyW** » 10 Nov 2009, 21:30

Sorry for the confusion Lawrence, yes I did put the body armour back on.

I have checked the voltage across pin number 1 on the black plug and it shows 12volts.

I presume we are talking about the black plug which is attached to the body armour at the pump.

I have 12v running to this connector and i am thinking of running a separate line from there direct to the stop solenoid to see if this cures the problem prior to overhauling pump.

Your thoughts on this idea.

Kenny

Post by **CitroJim** » 10 Nov 2009, 21:34

That's got to be a good idea Kenny. You don't want to dismantle the pump unless it is strictly necessary.

I'm sorry, I mis-interpreted what you said in Mike's blog. I read it that you had tested the stop solenoid in the pump by applying 12v direct to it and still had the same problem.

Have a look at my post there and let me know if you want the document i have.

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 11 Nov 2009, 12:44

Ok Kenny, sorry, I thought the armour was history.

Yes sorry, I do mean the black plug mounted on the pump armour. When you connect the battery to the right pin, I'm sure you know this but you will hear the solenoid click if it's working.....

Definitely worth a try. I guess it might not cure the original starting problem?.........
fingers crossed.

I remember going through exactly waht you did and cracking injectors open - bone dry. It was then I ran the wire from the battery and heard the solenoid click. Turned the engine over and it fired up straight away.

Good luck

Lawrence

Post by **KennyW** » 11 Nov 2009, 22:37

Hi Lawrence,

I will be attacking the problem Sat morning unfortunately the rugby is going to get in the way

Will watch our firsts play then the internationals and maybe have wee swallow.

I will be fitting fit for the battle on Sunday.

I will tak pics etc and then learn how to put them on the forum using the excellent guide provided

Kenny

lolingram · Post by **lolingram** » 01 Dec 2009, 20:46

Sorry for the confusion Lawrence, yes I did put the body armour back on

Do you know anyone who plays County Cricket? If so, remove the armour, and get him to throw it as far as possible into the Bundu.....

onthecut · Post by **onthecut** » 08 Jan 2010, 22:42

Hi Guys.

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread, but as you are obviously used to this type of pump and I've not had one before !
I'm stuck with a permanent tickover of over 1000 rpm and a ludicrously long delay (to me) in the revs falling off when the throttle is released. The front damper has been removed and I'm looking at deadjusting the dashpot device at the back to get rid of the delay. What's the fix to drop the tickover. All thoughts welcome.

Mike.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 09 Jan 2010, 10:25

a few years ago a guy i shared my old workshop with and i de/armoured a 406 with this type of armour, all the bolt were allen or torx, got them all out without any problem, the roll pin lays across two cotton real mounttings,

what we did was used an miniture air cut off grinder to cut a slot in the top of the armour to expose the front end of the roll pin, then just driftted it out,

this was all in situe

regards malcolm

spider · Post by **spider** » 09 Jan 2010, 12:48

onthecut wrote:Hi Guys.

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread, but as you are obviously used to this type of pump and I've not had one before !
I'm stuck with a permanent tickover of over 1000 rpm and a ludicrously long delay (to me) in the revs falling off when the throttle is released. The front damper has been removed and I'm looking at deadjusting the dashpot device at the back to get rid of the delay. What's the fix to drop the tickover. All thoughts welcome.

Mike.

Is your fast idle cable stuck ? (I'm not sure if yours will be the wax-stat or electronic)