Glow Plug Woes

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 24 Oct 2009, 17:12

Glad to hear it! I notice the oil feed pipe goes up between the manifold and turbo, I think I'll remove it just in case. Then the manifold and turbo can tilt back away from the engine. It's raining and cold now so I've called it a day!

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 25 Oct 2009, 18:12

Daily update

Exhaust manifold is off, and I've removed all of the studs.

Next up is the cam belt and getting things timed up. Any tips on this? Obviously I'm a novice and this part needs to be right! Cambelt is brand new anyway so I'm not going to be replacing it.

Post by **CitroJim** » 25 Oct 2009, 18:41

Excellent!!!!

That's very good work and therefore I doubt your assertion of being a novice!

I presume you have the cam covers off...

Right, cambelt. Hopefully, if replaced recently the crank centre bolt will not put up too much of a fight. Loosen it. I like to engage 5th and then chock one wheel and use the other wheel to rotate the engine to time. This is signified by the index hole in the camshaft sprocket lining up with a threaded hole in the head, the two pump sprocket holes lining up with their two respective threaded index holes and the hole in the flywheel lining up with a hole in the block behind the starter motor. Locate this hole first (it's easier if you slip off the starter motor first) and rock the engine around the time point until you can slip a length of something in the hole and you can feel it go right through into the flywheel and lock teh engine solid. I use a piece of copper brake pipe. Then using M8 bolts, lock the cam sprocket and pump sprocket into the threaded holes. That's the engine now timed and ready for the cambelt to come off.

Remove the crank pulley centre bolt and pull off the crank pulley. Loosen the cambelt tensioner by loosening it's pivot and clamp bolts (the BoL explains this very well) and using a 3/8" square drive, push the tensioner back to remove all tension on the belt. Lock the tensioner off by nipping up the clamp bolt.

If reusing the cambelt, mark its direction of travel by drawing an arrow on it.

Next steps:

Remove the injector pipes, thermostat housing and vacuum pump.

Loosen the head bolts whilst the engine mounts are still on. Once loose, remove the RH engine mount complete, being wary that there is one bolt that is recessed and that it is dowelled into the head. Jack up the sump to allow the mount to come off and then lower the engine back down onto an axle stand. Then it's all over bar the shouting. Bolts out and lift the head off!

You're going great guns.

Slip the belt off, being careful not to kink it.

Post by **myglaren** » 25 Oct 2009, 20:33

CitroJim wrote: Slip the belt off, being careful not to kink it.

If it isn't already marked, then mark the direction of rotation of the belt.
I neglected this once on a Volvo and it only lasted 50 miles.
Once used it has to travel in the same direction.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 25 Oct 2009, 21:47

Thanks guys, is it worth just buying a new belt? The one I have is only about 3 months old, but if there's any doubt about removing and refitting it should I just buy a new one?

Jim, a most useful post, much appreciated.

I'm also wondering is it worth getting a recon head? Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-9-TD-CITROEN-PE ... 5d26859394

Then I know everything is tip top. I could probably flog my old one for a few quid.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 26 Oct 2009, 22:00

Daily update

A bit of time spent, but not much achieved

Put the engine back on the RH mount, which took ages. It had moved quiet a bit forward and was tricky to locate again. Got the upper timing belt covers removed, they are all cracked and broken. It seems the garage that did the belt wasn't very careful taking them off

I'll buy some new ones.

I can see the locking holes so that's starting to make sense. I'll buy some M8 bolts from B&Q tomorrow. Got the car jacked up and got the arch liner off.

So dumb question, but the crank pully also drives the accessory belt? Therefore this belt needs to come off as well? I'll add that to the list of new bits to buy, I'm not sure when that one was replaced last.

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Oct 2009, 22:09

Coming along a treat

I know so well the problem of getting the RH mount back on because the engine is so inclined to tilt the wrong way and it's quite a heave. Still, think of it as a kind of weight-training!

Yes, the auxiliary belt will need to come off. A nice easy one though and wise to replace it. Also check the condition of its tensioners and jockeys whilst you're there.

It annoys me that garages seem to love breaking cam covers. I know they're a bit of a challenge but there is no excuse for it really.

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 27 Oct 2009, 19:34

Blimey!

I have missed a lot.

Sounds like you've had some fun and games but Jim has come to the rescue again!

How is it going? Just check that your power steering pipe work hasn't been strained by the shifting about.

I will have a look, think I have a set of timing belt covers I can let you have. Also, have you got your head gasket and bolts? got those too and don't need them now.

Keep warm.

Lawrence

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 27 Oct 2009, 19:50

That's very kind of you Lawrence! I don't have a gasket yet. I was waiting until the head was off to see what thickness I need.

I'm about to wrap up and go out and get started on the crank pully/accessory belt.

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 27 Oct 2009, 19:56

Ok, I'll have a look at the gasket thickness and let you know. From memory it's a thick gasket.

That pulley bolt is pretty tight (held with locking compound) If you get the 8mm drill in the timing hole at the fly wheel and engage first gear, its usually enough to hold the crankshaft. It has worked for me but might be a bit naughty.

A decent socket set is a must with good extension bars to clear the body work.

Good luck

Lawrence

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 02 Nov 2009, 21:01

Hi guys, sorry for the lack of updates. The weather has been poor and I suppose I've been a bit demotivated about the whole thing. Anyway, back at it tonight.

I managed to make a little tool out of 5mm steel rod, and I managed to lock the flywheel fairly easily without having to take off the starter. I've also locked the cam and fuel pump sprockets.

Now....the crank shaft pulley. Is there any reason I actually have to take this off? As the belt is brand new and I'm not replacing it, could I not just slip it off the cam/fuel sprockets and move it to the side?

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Nov 2009, 21:21

Yes, you can leave it in place on the bottom (crank) sprocket. I have in the past but it is ESSENTIAL to check very carefully the timing is correct before starting again to guard against the belt teeth quietly riding up the teeth on the sprocket and causing the timing to drift half a tooth off.

So long as you bear then in mind, no problem. Be very careful though not to get any oil on the belt in the process of work.

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 03 Nov 2009, 19:21

good stuff, careful about your 5mm rod. I'm pretty sure it's an 8mm hole and you might get a bit of play throwing the timing out by one tooth.....and I would be slightly concerned that you might sheer off a piece.

How have you got on with the timing belt tensioner? it can be quite awkward to release and lock in place (ten pairs of hands job)

The only thing that worries me about the pulley staying in place is that you won't be able to see if the belt teeth are in place on the crank when you put it all back together...... The lower plastic guarding obscures your view (I think the same guarding is on the 405 406?)

All the best

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 03 Nov 2009, 21:54

Good evening

The 5mm rod seemed to lock it solid, plus it's very strong stuff. It definitely won't sheer.

I slackened off the timing belt tensioner and locked it back. Then I carefully slipped the belt off the cam sprocket. It's hardly moved otherwise. I think once it's reassembled I'll rotate the engine several times by hand, then put the locking bolts back in to make sure it's all still timed up.

I'm nearly there, I'm hoping to get the head off tomorrow evening.

Ok, tonights questions

Cam sprocket.....since I'm only removing the head to retreive the bit of glow plug, can't this just stay in situe? Likewise with vacuum pump?

A couple of things in the Haynes I'm not clear on.....

It wants me to remove the timing belt tensioner and idler. Why would this be required?

What is the engine front plate? It makes reference to removing bolts from this, and then removing the plate. There's no illustration

Thanks again

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 03 Nov 2009, 22:03

To put things in context, here's where I've been spending my evenings of late

Got myself a gazebo from Argos for £15