Glow Plug Woes

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 10 Oct 2009, 11:49

It's not too bad and as Jim says;the 405 is a veritable picnic for access compared to the 406 (which I have taken a head off recently).

I hope Jim would back this up but I can give you some pointers. I have replaced a head gasket on the 405.

It pays to take a few pictures along the way and the old haynes book will help for replacing the head bolts and sequence of torque.

As for value addeds - if she's a high miler, I would do timing belt, coolant pump, maybe cam cover gasket et al. It's up to you if you want to get the head checked over for valve clearances. In a normal blown head gasket scenario, I think it's pretty standard practice to get the head pressure tested and skimmed but yours should be fine.

Replacing the timing belt is a common sense must, especially as the tensioner pulley mountings are bolted into the head I think (from memory)

Good luck

Post by **CitroJim** » 11 Oct 2009, 12:55

Lawrence, I reckon you've just about covered all my "value addeds" there in one go

One thing, do use new head bolts on reassembly.

Another good tip is to make sure you've had your Weetabix for breakfast when you come to torque down the head. Doing the last few degrees of the angle tightening sure is hard going!

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 12 Oct 2009, 09:30

Quite right sir,

I must arrange a time to pop over soon. Can you drop me an email with your numbers again? I deleted by accident.

Hope all is well

Lawrence

Post by **CitroJim** » 12 Oct 2009, 20:14

All's well here Lawrence, just short of time

It's been all go on all fronts and so busy I'm struggling to find time to write up my blog

Lawrence1973 wrote: I must arrange a time to pop over soon. Can you drop me an email with your numbers again? I deleted by accident.

I'll do that, no worries at all Lawrence. I have a lower engine mount sitting here with your name on it...

Lawrence1973 · Post by **Lawrence1973** » 13 Oct 2009, 12:38

Splendid,

I managed to replace the rubber mounting and it's all done so thanks for the offer. Will speak to you soon

Lawrence

How is that head removal going evilally?

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 17 Oct 2009, 21:12

Thanks for the help guys. I've been away on holiday for a week, weather permitting I'll get stuck into this tomorrow.

She's had a new timing belt and water pump about 2,000 miles ago. Can anyone recommend a good place I can order some recon injectors?

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 20 Oct 2009, 18:00

Right, started on this today and things are underway. Here's first question....

I'm trying to tilt the engine forward to get access to the exhaust and inlet manifolds. Haynes says to jack the engine up under the sump using a block of wood. However, when I slacken the engine mount, the engine tilts backwards. Is there a safe place to jack further back, to make it move forwards?

Post by **CitroJim** » 20 Oct 2009, 18:33

The best way to tilt forward and keep the engine tilted forward is to undo the exhaust, remove the lower engine mount. At that point you'll find the engine very easy to swing forward. It won't stay and a jack won't do the job because of the sump shape.

Trick is to get an assistant to swing the engine to the desired position and then jam a suitable piece of wood between a point on the engine and the bulkhead or subframe. I've jammed a piece between the rocker cover and bulkhead in the past but for manifold removal, a piece of wood jammed between the sump and subframe would be better.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 21 Oct 2009, 19:45

Thanks Jim, removed that engine mount. Now I need to get under the car and get the exhaust off. This is taking me ages! I had 4 t shirts, a jumper and 2 pairs of trousers on outside tonight, getting cold!

Post by **CitroJim** » 21 Oct 2009, 21:05

The exhaust can be a bit tiresome but with a couple of good 10mm ring spanners and a 1/4" 10mm socket on a very long extension it is not too bad. Remember, if the 10mm nuts do round off a 3/8" socket or ring spanner will usually then do the business. I find it harder to reassemble the exhaust personally. Right fiddly old job where you wished your fingers were longer and more numerous or you hand an extra hand

An assistant can be very useful for this aspect of the job.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 22 Oct 2009, 21:05

Thanks for all your help thus far Jim.

Exhaust came off fairly easily, thankfully that section is only a year old.

I removed the lower engine mount. This is the one under the battery tray, correct? The engine is supported by a jack under the gearbox, however I still can't get it to tilt forward. Best I could do was roll it forward about an inch on the jack, which gave me a little access, but not enough. I've also slackened the other mount. If I get another jack under the sump and remove the other engine mount, would that work?

Post by **CitroJim** » 22 Oct 2009, 21:58

Pleased the exhaust was not too difficult

No, not that mount! The gearbox mount does not need to be touched at all. The only time this mount ever needs disturbing is when doing the clutch or removing the engine and gearbox complete from the car.

The mount to remove/disconnect is the donut underneath, the lower mount. Look at the RH driveshaft and the housing and you'll see the donut and the fork that attaches it to the subframe. Undo and remove the fork and the engine will tilt very freely.

The RH top engine mount will have to come off as there are dowels in this one that will prevent the head being lifted. I find it best to replace the lower mount fork once the manifolds are off and then remove the RH top mount after loosening the head bolts, otherwise you'll find it hard to keep the engine still when loosening them off.

When the RH top mount is ready to come off, jack up under the sump to a good working height and then replace the jack with an axle stand. Always use a piece of wood between jack/axle stand and the sump to act as a cushion.

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 22 Oct 2009, 22:28

Doh! Shows what I know. Up until I had this 405 the most I'd done to a car was put petrol in it. I wouldn't go as far as to say I'm enjoying this, but I'm certainly learning something! Now I know about engine mounts!

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 24 Oct 2009, 16:20

Hi Jim, here's my update today

I certainly wouldn't have got this far without your advice, so thanks again.

I undid the lower mount and tried tilting the engine forward. Unfortunately it slipped off the block of wood, and is now resting on the jack itself. I don't appear to have broken anything and nothing looks strained. Since I've pretty good access now I've just left it for the time being.

I got the inlet manifold off. There are a couple of light scores on the face of it where I've pulled it out, does this matter? It's all covered in gunk and I'd like to clean it up before refitting, what would the best method be?

Next up is the exhaust manifold. Haynes says to remove the turbo. Is this actually necessary? As far as I can see I can get at all 6 nuts without removing it. Is the metal pipe going in the top of it the oil feed pipe? Should I undo this to avoid straining it when the manifold comes off?

Post by **CitroJim** » 24 Oct 2009, 16:44

Great stuff

No need to remove the turbo in our Xantia experience. It can stay more or less where it is. You will need to remove the manifold studs though and this can be done by "double nutting" (locking two nuts against each other) to enable removal.

Well done on removing the inlet manifold. That is the most difficult part of the whole job