XU7JP 1.8 8v timing belt tools???

OzRX4 · Post by **OzRX4** » 14 Sep 2009, 13:31

Link to my thread in Citroen forum. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... highlight=

As the title says, I am after just what tools I need to set the timing for this job.

Deanxm · Post by **Deanxm** » 14 Sep 2009, 18:18

Hi

Im think being an Xu your engine will be the same as the 2.0, here is a guide from another forum on how to do the job showing the tools used, you will find the timing hole may not exist in the auto's flywheel and the timing point on the timing end of the crank is far easier to get at (you dont have to take the starter motor off

) I got my set from Draper for about £16 which covers all XU engines and some ford and vauxhall lumps but the timing pins are eeasily made up on the day with a selection of bolts.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=412

Good luck mate

D

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 14 Sep 2009, 19:00

if memery serves me right as i anit done a cam belt on a petrol XANT/BX for quite some time now, i think you need a 13mm bolt to peg the cam sprocket, and a 10mm drill bit to peg the crank pulley, there is a hole in the pulley and a U shaped slot behinde the pulley on the crank case,

easy peasy

regards malcolm

Post by **myglaren** » 14 Sep 2009, 20:38

Deanxm wrote:Hi

Im think being an Xu your engine will be the same as the 2.0, here is a guide from another forum on how to do the job showing the tools used, you will find the timing hole may not exist in the auto's flywheel and the timing point on the timing end of the crank is far easier to get at (you dont have to take the starter motor off ) I got my set from Draper for about £16 which covers all XU engines and some ford and vauxhall lumps but the timing pins are eeasily made up on the day with a selection of bolts.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=412

Good luck mate

D

Dean, you need to log in/sign up to view the forum.

Deanxm · Post by **Deanxm** » 14 Sep 2009, 21:02

yes of course you do, what an idiot

Well here is the pictures anyway............

This is the camshaft pulley pined in place, a drill bit will do the job, i think its 8mm?

This is the crank with the pulley and covers removed showing the timing slots, the proper tool seen in the first piccy is a 1/4" square bar but as already said a bolt or socket will of the correct size will do the same thing

Watch out for the bonded bottom pulley too, if it is bonded together (not all are) from two parts do not trust the timing hole and do it the way i did in the top picture

Again, good luck

uncle buck · Post by **uncle buck** » 15 Sep 2009, 08:34

A few drops of white paint or Tipp-ex (correction fluid) is all you need for most vehicles when changing the cam belt

Cheers.

Deanxm · Post by **Deanxm** » 15 Sep 2009, 17:59

Hi all

Im not a big fan of the tippex method, its very easy to be one tooth out like this and the camshaft has a habit of springing round if it is not pined in place, its only a couple of bolts to lock it so im not sure its worth it.

D

uncle buck · Post by **uncle buck** » 15 Sep 2009, 19:13

If you're accurate with your marking you will spot that you are a tooth out very easily.

Cheers

OzRX4 · Post by **OzRX4** » 15 Sep 2009, 22:59

Thanks for all the replies. Seems the fellows I spoke to may have been right with the set of pins/locks I needed. I still need the flywheel lock as I have to change the harmonic/damed pulley first, that means starter to come off too.
Got to do this Xsara first as the Scenic needs belt doing in early 2010 and I will practice on Sue's Xsara first

OzRX4 · Post by **OzRX4** » 18 Sep 2009, 04:08

Just realized I am panicking over nothing in relation to the belt for the Xsara. I did the belt on my Fiat 2L years ago and have done a Renault 20, Peugeot 505 and Fuego belt at some time so shouldn't be a problem. The Fiat was a twin cam and Italian so the French stuff will be as easy as falling over.
Having looked at the proceedure in the Haynes manual and seeing it on a website as well, I do think the crank pulley needs to be done first so I can line up the c/s correctly for setting with the pins.
I just need to find the seller who had the flywheel lock key now and I am in business..........................found a flywheel lock but it's states the engines it's for are the diesel range. Surely there couldn't be that much difference in the f/w of the petrol and diesel auto configurations? A flywheel lock will work in either case I'd assume.
I remember we couldn't hold the flywheel by any means in an old 505 Peugeot a few years back and we actually took the sump off and wedged a wooden wheel chock in between the balance weights of the crank and the side of the block to hold it still

. The crankshaft nut was done up that tight we guessed we put over 400ftLB to undo it. 90kg mate on the end of a 3ft steel bar equals well over the 400ft mark and well past ever coming undone by itself. I have never heard a thread crack so loudly when it let go before. We retightened it to about 100ft and used a bit of loctite to help it stay put.