306 no heat in cabin

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jgra1
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306 no heat in cabin

Post by jgra1 »

hi all, it looks like a 306TD mark 1, is coming my way tonight for a general filter change and to try and work out why there is no heat in the cabin...

I have got some antifreeze but have another use [vehicle] for it, if it's not required in solving the matrix issue.

I think the first thing will be to see if the matrix pipes are warm when the car arrives...then check the coolant level.... I could then sqeeze the matrix pipes closed, remove them from the bulkhead pipes, and see if the matrix lets water through using a hosepipe... If it does, then I am starting to think there is nothing wrong with it, and the hot/cold flap in the heater box must not be working..


Anything else I can check with the little time available ?


thanks
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Post by citronut »

see if it has a pollen filter maybe bloked,

also i dont think running a hose through the matrix will proove anything, as both the in and outs are on the same end cap of tyhe matrix, and there is nothing to stop water going in one and out the other without going through the matrix

regards malcolm
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Post by jgra1 »

oops thanks Malcom.. didnt think of that...
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

hmm..

well, the car had a half full radiator.. eureka i thought :)

filled it up, bled the three bleeds and checked the matrix hoses...

the bottom one was hot, the top was cold.. :(

re bled with a header tank, got coolant coming out of all bleed valves, and got the car to the point the fans kicked in,

still top pipe cold, bottom pipe hot, and the feintest heat in the cabin.. better than nothing but not much...

I pulled apart the top matrix pipe, at a steel/rubber join near the intercooler, and no coolant even came out!...then I put a hose pipe into the bulkhead side of that pipe and gently added pressure to the cooling system, after a few seconds coolant came out ot the engine side of the disconnection I had made..

whats going on? :) why no heat.... or flow

there isn't a blockage in the pipework of the matrix as such, and yet, coolant isn't coming back out of the matrix....

stuck..
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Post by CitroJim »

John,

Although I'm not intimate with the 306, I have a feeling the header tank is well below the matrix connector and bleeding it will be a 'mare.

I'd give a header tank extension a go.
Jim

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Post by RichardW »

There might be a bleed screw on the matrix connector - or, on our 2 ZXs there was a hose attached to it which came out next to the OS suspension strut top.

No problems with overheating if you work it hard is there? I'm wondering if the water pump is not very well....
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Post by jgra1 »

hmm

Jim - header is built into the rad..
Rich - there is a 'fly off' pipe where the matrix pipes go into bulkhead, this is the highest of the 3 bleeds (one is on end of rad, other is in pipework near thermo)

the cooling system is spot on other wise.. there is a little dip in the water level when engine is reved... no overheating. ...

hmm
I had a pain bleeding my V6, probably due to air locked in the matrix..

I think I will just have another go with a serious header tank and another pair of hands...

is it right what malcolm says, about water not needing to go through matrix if it doesnt feel like it, and taking a short cut? (not trying to challenge your expertise Malcolm :) )

I am not sure this is the issue anyway, as there seems to be no water coming out of matrix anyway....
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Post by citronut »

i have seen these appart when i took one out to find the end had come away, all you are left with is the core end exposed and the end cap open to both in's and out knecks,

try parking the car nose up hill whilst bleeding the system,

i have never had to use a header tank for this procedure on any PSA car,


i always remove the plug at the N/S end of the rad, fill coolant till it comes out at this point and stops sinking, refit the rad plug then remove all other bleed valves and keep filling till it comes out of the points,

if it wont start engine continue to fill coolant and if need be bring engine rev's up till it dose show at the bleed points, then re/cap bleed valves,

now runn engine with rad cap off till top hose and rad become hot evenly,
then refit rad cap and run engine till fans cut in and cut back out, now gently remove cap to check how calm the coolant is


regards malcolm
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Post by jgra1 »

thanks Malcolm...

I did pretty much what you describe.. even got the front end on ramps to do the airfilter...

I will have another go..

I suppose it could be a leaking matrix...?
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Post by Ashraf »

Hi

Check Water Pump ?

Disconnect the Mitrix pipes and see whats the water flow like while on idle

and also at 2500 RPM

If you find there is NO increase of flow than the water pump fualty

Good Luck Ash
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Post by jgra1 »

may try that thanks Ashraf
but if the pump was suspect the car would have seen some problems already ?
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Post by Ashraf »

Hi

Not having hot air is the first problem.

You will also notic your cooling fan also not coming ON very often any more as before it use to. second problem.

your third problem you will notic that you are lossing water :shock:

and than you find engine over heating by than its to late :roll:

So not having hot air is the first sign of water pump fault not having pressure to reach the Heater Matrix

Hope you will understand

Good Luck Ash
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

I think the problem could well be a airlock; these cars can be very difficult to bleed. As Jim has suggested, you need to adapt something like a 2 litre pop bottle with the bottom cut off so it's neck fits tightly into the radiator neck. Duct tape should work. This gives you a head of water that permits the heater bleed to be sucessfully bled. I would not consider attempting bleeding the car without this. I would suggest leaving the header in place until the 'stat opens.

Jonathan.
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