405 starting problem.

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DBAKER1980
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Joined: 25 Feb 2003, 07:16

405 starting problem.

Post by DBAKER1980 » 25 Feb 2003, 07:24

Hello, could somebody please give me some advice?
I have a 1.9 pug 405 petrol GRi(K reg). It wont start at the moment. Engine turns fine, but doesnt spark. It appears that there is power entering the coil pack but none going through the HT leads.
Is the fault likely to be in this coil pack, or elsewhere? I have checked the main earthing on the engine. What else should I check to find the source of the problem?
I had this problem once before, but it was simply solved by "jiggling" a fat cable i found on the back of the engine. That isn't working this time.
Any advice would be much appreciated, as can't afford to pay for a garage at the moment.
Thanks in advance.
Darren.

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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK » 01 Mar 2003, 02:42

Hi Darren -
First of all you MUST have access to a multimeter. A simple hobbyist multimeter should not cost you more than some £8 in a supermarket or DIY store - but the help using such a tool is worth 10 times more[8)].
Here goes a step-by-step fault tracing the ignition on a PSA (or any) car [^]:
In the following, the term "+12V" is a voltage ranging from some 11.5V to some 13.8V - depending on battery charge condition - and the engine/alternator running or not [:I].
On the ignition coil you have 2 sides of connections - one side is +12V feed from the ignition/starter switch - other side is the "contact breaker" signal from the ignition module.
Note how/where these wires are connected - then remove all including the HT top cable.
Measure ohmic resistance through the spade connectors on the coil - it should have 0.8ohm - which on your meter equals a shortcircuit (0-2 ohms). Measure from any spade connector to top HT connector, and you should find 4,000 - 10,000ohms here. Any failures on these 2 checks, means a defective coil.
Switch on the ignition. Find the wire which supplies the +12V feed from the ignition switch.
If NOT possible to find a +12V feed on one of these wires (usually a thick grey or white wire) - you have a problem in that wire (usually corroded spade connector) - or in the ignition switch itself. Trace the wires for positive id. The wires traced to the ignition module can of course NOT feed the +12V - only the ignition switch wire traced to a bundle going inside the car.
Reconnect ALL cables. Then measure again that the +12V feed is still present on the same wire on the ignition coil.
Now try the other side of the ignition coil - here you should now also find +12V - since the "breaker contact" signal from the ignition module is an open circuit with engine stopped.
If NOT possible to measure +12V on coil now - you have a shortcircuit in the ignition module or it's wiring.
Remove the multiconnector from the ignition module - if the +12V feed now reappears - the ignition module is shortcircuited (defective).
Reconnect all wires - including the coil top HT cable - and disconnect this cable at the distributor. Insert a screwdriver into the open end HT cable connctor - and place such that you have about 10-12mm distance between srewdriver metallic part and ANY chassis connected engine part.
Take care of petrol/fumes and personal injury from electrical shock [xx(] - then have the engine turned by the starter switch. You should have a frightening blue spark from the screwdriver - loudly clicking. If this spark is weak (few mm and red/yellowish) or absent - the ignition module or it's wiring is defective. Usually the small twin cable from distributor to ignition module multiconnector is at fault - or the multiconnector is corrroded in the contacts.
Turn off the ignition and reconnect ALL cables.
Now try start the engine. If still no luck - then try each spark plug HT lead with the srewdriver test as above. If the spark now is absent or weak here - your distributor cap/rotor is defective (usually HT carbon traced inside - means crap).
Good luck [8D]

DBAKER1980
Posts: 12
Joined: 25 Feb 2003, 07:16

Post by DBAKER1980 » 01 Mar 2003, 17:47

Thanks a lot mate. I will be spending tomorrow trying to sort this out. I shall let you know what happens.
Cheers,
Darren.

DBAKER1980
Posts: 12
Joined: 25 Feb 2003, 07:16

Post by DBAKER1980 » 04 Mar 2003, 01:16

oh dear,
after carrying out above checks, (and others), the problem was still not solved. i think it may be a problem with the alarm/immobiliser, because when i put the battery back in, the alarm went off, and could not be stopped at all. i ended up taking the fuse out!
its a bit of a shame, but sadly i have had to hand my car over to the local pug specialist. (charging about £60 per hour!!)
in 6 years of driving, this is the first time i have been unable to sort the problem myself[:(!]
it makes me feel like less of a man, and will probably haunt me forever. [:D]
darren

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AndersDK
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Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 05:56
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Post by AndersDK » 04 Mar 2003, 09:32

- sure it's your car [:D][:D]
- not another one the same colour [8D][8D]

DBAKER1980
Posts: 12
Joined: 25 Feb 2003, 07:16

Post by DBAKER1980 » 05 Mar 2003, 00:10

well,
according to peugeot, the heater matrix has burst and leaked all over the alarm system. Maybe the head gasket has gone if the pressure was enough to burst the heater matrix?[:(]
anyway, that is the end of that car, as cost of repairs is far more than value of car, and more work needs doing for the MOT in a week.[:(]
If anyone wants it they can have it. it is in westbury in wiltshire.
it is quite a tidy car apart from that, it would supply many good spares. any offers welcome.[:)]
e-mail dbaker1980@hotmail.com
cheers,
darren.