306 wheel bearing?

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 17 Dec 2008, 16:39

Wondering if I've got a wheel bearing going on my 306, it only has 55,000 miles but from time to time and especially at higher speeds there is a squealing/squeaking sound from around the front drivers side wheel. Turning the wheel slightly left will stop the noise only for it to return when you straighten up the wheel or turn right. I've jacked the car up and tried to check for play in the wheel, it feels pretty solid though there is a slight rubbing noise as it spins. I gather that a wheel bearing isn't a DIY job, is it worth having both the front bearings done at the same time if that is the problem? How long can it be left and what adverse affects might it have on the car; the car feels pretty normal though it may be lacking in go a bit and is slightly jerky/quick to decelerate when you ease of the gas.

pug_owner2002 · Post by **pug_owner2002** » 17 Dec 2008, 17:40

Have you checked if the brakes are binding?
As it sounds a bit like they are.
A duff wheel bearing "normally" sounds like a rumble.

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 17 Dec 2008, 18:03

Hmm, the thing is it only appears to be that one wheel and it varies with steering input, surely the noise would be constant with binding brakes? It may relate to heat or moisture, seems to happen only on long runs, and as of lately they've all been in the wet.

How would I go about checking, just take the wheel off and look?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 17 Dec 2008, 22:00

Yes -

I'd check the brakes too. Sometimes a chipstone may clamp itself in the pads.
That would also immediately reveal any other weird problems in the area, taht could cause running noises.

A defective bearing will not squeal. It will definately rumble. Also it most surely feels like very fine sand has got into the bearing, when you slowly turn the (lifted off) wheel by hand.
Its quite easy to detect once you have tried it.

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 24 Jan 2009, 18:38

Seems like suspicions about brakes are correct. The rears definitely stick on the handbrake. So I guess it's cables and/or drum overhaul. Problem is I can't tell what type of drum I've got. Peugeots Servicebox suggests they're either Bosch or Girling, I don't know whether I need to get the right one or whether they're interchangeable. They look identical. (N5A 4 42G 01A) & (N5A 4 42G 05A) Peugeot has "brake kits" for them at about £140 each :/ Not sure whether these include everything (shoes, drums, adjusters, hub nut, grease cap, springs, etc) or just drums and shoes. Seems a bit expensive, any idea where I could pick them up cheaper?

Front I've not had a chance to look at (couldn't get the wheel bolts off

) but I think the brake bind theory is right there to.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 24 Jan 2009, 18:51

Try GSF. AFAIK they are about the cheapest in UK for quality parts.

There is one tool you should never miss in your selection of home mechanic tools. That would be a long breaker bar fitting over your wheelbrace.
A simple 1m length of 1" water pipe is about the cheapest and most effective tool you can get

However you MUST only use normal handforce with your wheelbrace, when torqueing the wheelbolts. They can easily be over torqued.

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 16 Feb 2009, 21:22

Rear drums frighten me a little, don't like the idea of going to the trouble of getting the grease caps and hub nuts off only to be unable to remove the drums or something silly like that. I'd also need to remove the drums just to see what type are fitted so I can order the kit. At the end of the day it may be something as simple as handbrake cables but it still means cracking those drums open.

The rear brakes seem to stick on and off, sometimes only one seem to stick, sometimes both. They seem to free after a while.

The diagnosis of the front brakes was correct, I got the front wheel off using a proper torque wrench (the wheelbrace that came with the car actually bent when I tried to use it to free them

). There was next to no clearance between the pad and the disc, I could move the discs but only with considerable effort. Disc looked OK as did pads, but I couldn't get a good look because I lack the measuring equipment and the pads were clamped around the disc. Didn't look too dirty and there was nothing obvious aside from a lack of clearance. I'm worried it may be a dodgy calliper now.

This is beginning to look expensive, especially as I need two new front tyres.. (both of which have feathering around the edges).

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 Feb 2009, 08:27

firstly are either/both the front discs discoloured on the working area,

the usual cause of binnding front brakes on this type of system, is either someone has put pads in without copperslip (brake grease) so the pads are sticking in the calipper, or the calipper slides are sticking,

these are a straight forward calipper not like BX/XANTIA with hand brake mechanisum inside,

these calippers very seldom fail,

also it is best to use a long knucle bar to crack off wheel nuts that are to tight (tyre shop whindy gun!!!!!!!!!!!),

you should not use a torque wrench to loosen excesively tight wheel nuts,

the rear drums can sometimes be had to pull off, as they get a lip on the inside edge, and this gets caught up on the brake shose,

if they are well and trully stuck you will need to force them off, which will mean you need to arm yourself with a brake shoe fitting kit as well as any other parts you need,

if you have or can get ho;ld of a slide hammer with a brake drum adappter, this is quite offen the easyest way to get them off

regards malcolm

Post by **myglaren** » 17 Feb 2009, 18:05

[slight hijack]

A Draper extending wheel wrench is the perfect tool.

Long story short. A group of burly firemen tried to get my front wheel off with standard wheel wrenches and a 6' scaffold pole, no result other than bent wrenches (3 of) and very sweaty, knackered firemen.
One of them swiped a brand new Draper extender from his mates boot, job done.

I bought mine in Wilkinsons. £2.50 each so I got seven, one for each of the kid's cars too.
[/hijack]

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 Feb 2009, 18:57

every time i need to remove wheel nuts now i always go straight for my two foot SEALEY knucle bar, as quite often i find wheel nut's done up fare to tight by brain less tyre f****ters

regards malcolm

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 17 Feb 2009, 19:58

Thanks.

Didn't notice any discolouration in the working area, no real rust. The car spent a lot of time standing and has suffered as a result, I guess with the front brakes it may be worth trying to change the pads and clean the callipers whilst applying copperslip to the backs of the pads. If the slides are sticking how should I deal with that?

The problem I have is that Haynes don't seem to have fitting advice for these callipers..

The rear drums remain offputting because I can't identify them without cracking them open and so can't order a fitting kit.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 18 Feb 2009, 18:24

dont just copperslip the rear of the pads apply some on the ends were they contact the calippers, the slides just push out the inner sleaves clean them up and copperslip them as well,

were abouts are you

regards malcolm

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 21 Feb 2009, 21:56

Hi,

I'm in West London. Car is my dads but I drive it rather too often and as a result feel I need to do some of the maintenance.

I want to take a crack at the front brakes but I really don't want to make even a small mistake on something so critical and without Haynes manual guidance I fear I will. Doing a quick search around it looks like these may be a matter of undoing one bolt and it rotates upwards to reveal the pads, but whether this bolt is reusable and what torque it should be tightened to, I don't know.

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 23 Feb 2009, 16:49

Well that'll teach me... Driving to Croydon I stopped at one of the many traffic lights in one of the many queues of traffic. Put on handbrake without thinking, lights went green, released handbrake, car refused to move, stalled. Tried again, stalled. Nasty smell of burning clutch/brakes. Lots of applying and releasing the handbrake, and it released sufficiently to allow the car to move again. So it looks like I'm going to have to get it fixed or build up the courage to crack open those drums.

pantherd90 · Post by **pantherd90** » 11 Mar 2009, 18:38

£600 repair.

Someone had fitted the front pads incorrectly, hence noise/wear. New discs and pads. Drums had been sticking, this broke material off the shoes and generally messed stuff up. Generated lots of heat, this warped the drums and wrote them off.

New front discs & pads
New rear drums
New rear drum kit (including shoes) + cylinders
New handbrake cables
New rear wheel bearings