Hi all
I have a 1994 306 xtdt. Today the blower and heated rear window have started to operate without even having the key in the igniton. No other electrical items are operating though (sunroof, windows, radio etc)
I am worried about this flattening my battery.
Anyone encountered this problem before or have any ideas?
Thanks
Craig
306 XTDT blower and heated window work without key!
Moderator: RichardW
Yes -
But sort of the opposite than usual.
The ignition switch on Xantiae are wellknown to burn out in the one auxillary switch position that exactly powers the blower and rear demister (and heated mirrors if fitted).
The common bodge is to fit a relay operated by the other still working auxillary switch.
But you encounter the opposite : this switch seems to have shortcircuited.
Still, the bodge would be the same, i.e. you remove the connections on the affected switch, and replace with a relay contact, the relay coil still opereated by the other good switch in the ignition key.
Or you may choose to replace the ignition key switch. Expensive and bothersome.
Relay solution still bothersome, but cheap, and you keep the same key for ignition switch and doors.
Try the search function and tip in the keywords 'blower not working'
Or try a search on postings with 'Clogzz' as author.
You should get loads on how to do the relay bodge.
But sort of the opposite than usual.
The ignition switch on Xantiae are wellknown to burn out in the one auxillary switch position that exactly powers the blower and rear demister (and heated mirrors if fitted).
The common bodge is to fit a relay operated by the other still working auxillary switch.
But you encounter the opposite : this switch seems to have shortcircuited.
Still, the bodge would be the same, i.e. you remove the connections on the affected switch, and replace with a relay contact, the relay coil still opereated by the other good switch in the ignition key.
Or you may choose to replace the ignition key switch. Expensive and bothersome.
Relay solution still bothersome, but cheap, and you keep the same key for ignition switch and doors.
Try the search function and tip in the keywords 'blower not working'
Or try a search on postings with 'Clogzz' as author.
You should get loads on how to do the relay bodge.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
The diagrams provided by Haynes are coming from Peugeot/Citroën, so it may not be possible to get better ones. 
The topics in these links should be enough to sort the problem:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=17322
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=21419
From RichardW: http://www.geocities.com/tricky992002/fanmod.xls
The topics in these links should be enough to sort the problem:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=17322
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=21419
From RichardW: http://www.geocities.com/tricky992002/fanmod.xls
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
Just a quick update.
I had a play this afternoon and completely disconnected the ignition switch. Blower still operates! In a way I was pleased at this point because at least the switch didn't need replacing.
I did a few voltage and continuity checks and found that there was a 12v supply on kk1 (red wire that goes from ign switch) at all times. Removing the fuse made no difference either so I've come to the conclusion that there are 2 wires shorting together somewhere between the fuse box and the blower.
I moved the fuse box forward and it stopped! I couldn't find any wires shorting but I did notice that the relay was warm. I'm wondering if the short is inside the relay. I've temporarily borrowed the rear windows relay and am monitoring it for the time being to see what happens.
I'll con check both of the relays later to check for any differences and give an update.
Craig
I had a play this afternoon and completely disconnected the ignition switch. Blower still operates! In a way I was pleased at this point because at least the switch didn't need replacing.
I did a few voltage and continuity checks and found that there was a 12v supply on kk1 (red wire that goes from ign switch) at all times. Removing the fuse made no difference either so I've come to the conclusion that there are 2 wires shorting together somewhere between the fuse box and the blower.
I moved the fuse box forward and it stopped! I couldn't find any wires shorting but I did notice that the relay was warm. I'm wondering if the short is inside the relay. I've temporarily borrowed the rear windows relay and am monitoring it for the time being to see what happens.
I'll con check both of the relays later to check for any differences and give an update.
Craig
I'm somewhat baffled now
The blower still operates without the key in regardless of the which relay I use but it is intermittent. I left the ign off for 5 mins with multimeter probing control side of blower relay. Blower was not on then suddenly, without touching anything, 12 v appeared and the relay energised and blowers turned on.
This is getting seriously wierd
The blower still operates without the key in regardless of the which relay I use but it is intermittent. I left the ign off for 5 mins with multimeter probing control side of blower relay. Blower was not on then suddenly, without touching anything, 12 v appeared and the relay energised and blowers turned on.
This is getting seriously wierd
Does the heated rear window in fact also switch on ?
Check with a testlamp on this circuit too.
This will tell you if its only the blower circuit - or its a problem closer to the fusebox distribution point for both circuits.
Could well be advantageous to rig up some really good floodlight for the fusebox, remove the associated seat and then inspect the cabling down there at the fusebox. Make sure you have some pillows for your elbows and knees, as it only take few minutes before you cant stand crumble yourself down
Check with a testlamp on this circuit too.
This will tell you if its only the blower circuit - or its a problem closer to the fusebox distribution point for both circuits.
Could well be advantageous to rig up some really good floodlight for the fusebox, remove the associated seat and then inspect the cabling down there at the fusebox. Make sure you have some pillows for your elbows and knees, as it only take few minutes before you cant stand crumble yourself down
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
I finally have a fix 
After chasing round in circles with voltages appearing and changing randomly I managed to track the problem down to the radiator fan plug (just forward of airbox). As soon as i touched it (with blowers running inside) they suddenly stopped. I took the plug off and it was completely blue inside and all the contacts were corroded. It was beyond repair so had to cut it off and join the wires with bullets.
It was a really wierd problem, obviously voltage was tracking accross the corrosion and powering up other circuits directly from the battery. Must have been getting water in the plug for a while.
So, if your rear screen demister or internal blowers operate without the ignition on, check that plug. BTW it's a swine to get to and my hands bear the scars
Also the wires weren't long enough so I had to extend them as well.
Many thanks for the ideas/input
Craig
After chasing round in circles with voltages appearing and changing randomly I managed to track the problem down to the radiator fan plug (just forward of airbox). As soon as i touched it (with blowers running inside) they suddenly stopped. I took the plug off and it was completely blue inside and all the contacts were corroded. It was beyond repair so had to cut it off and join the wires with bullets.
It was a really wierd problem, obviously voltage was tracking accross the corrosion and powering up other circuits directly from the battery. Must have been getting water in the plug for a while.
So, if your rear screen demister or internal blowers operate without the ignition on, check that plug. BTW it's a swine to get to and my hands bear the scars
Also the wires weren't long enough so I had to extend them as well.Many thanks for the ideas/input
Craig