306 Hdi wont start - Help

BK · Post by BK » 18 Dec 2006, 20:44

My 306 Hdi has a an engine that refuses to fire. The tale starts about 2 weeks ago when it just stopped and refused to go any futher. The fuel pump in the tank was changed and it started first turn - Great. result

Its been OK since until today when it just refused to start, I checked the fuel supply as I thought maybe the pump I fitted had gone faulty but it seems ok as plenty of fuel is reaching the filter. Ive checked all the fuses but am now unsure how to proceed. Ive also pressed the engine cut out thingy. I dont want to take it to a dealers if I can help it. Any sugestions appreciated
John

Post by **504** » 20 Dec 2006, 00:49

Well the simple thing could be air in the fuel system, and will need priming. The instructions should be in the owners manual in case you ran out of fuel.

It could be more dastartedly in the electronic immobilser is on the blink.

pugxpert · Post by **pugxpert** » 20 Dec 2006, 19:34

wont be air in a hdi. i would check your return pressure if to high will be much of a pressure drop between feed and return you need 0.8 bar diffrence to lift valve of its seat to allow fuel to enter high pressure pump. also try un plugging sensor on fuel rail as ecu needs to see 120 bar before it will start operating injectors if not enough high pressure disconnecting sensor will give ecu a default of around 400 bar if that does not work try tapping fuel pressure regulator on pump had a few sticking lets us know how you get on...

BK · Post by BK » 23 Dec 2006, 14:43

Thanks for the replies. In the end I got a garage to tow it away to sort, as its to cold for me to work outside in the dark. The garage tells me that to much fuel is going back to the tank and its got two injectors sticking this seems strange to me as the car was running OK before it didnt start, why would 2 injectors fail at the same time? . Its all on hold now till the new year so I wil be spending Christmas thinking about the bill

steelcityuk · Post by **steelcityuk** » 04 Jan 2007, 20:53

HDi engines have a reputation for destroying the injection pump when the lift pump fails. It's said by some to be because as the lift pump fails it sheds metal particles into the fuel which bypass the fuel filter (due to bad design) then mangle the injection pump. So resulting in a massive bill.

Have a read through this thread -

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/ ... tm?t=47331

Good luck.

Steve.

np · Post by np » 04 Jan 2007, 21:03

Interesting reading that.Makes me think about renewing the whole housing on mine next time i service it.I had to remove the whole housing to get the top unscrewed on mine

.Maybe be worth looking into.

steelcityuk · Post by **steelcityuk** » 04 Jan 2007, 21:20

I asked the question as to which filter would do the job, I may be popping down to GSF pretty soon!

Steve.

BK · Post by BK » 04 Jan 2007, 22:39

Thanks for the info folks, I am now entering the depression zone, as it sounds like this may cost me as much as the cars worth (its a v reg 99) to get it fixed. The garage have not sorted it yet as they have been closed for the holiday.

John

steelcityuk · Post by **steelcityuk** » 05 Jan 2007, 10:55

Could you persuede the garage to use secondhand parts? If so -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Peugeot-2-0-HDI-H ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/citroen-peugeot-h ... dZViewItem

Steve.

np · Post by np » 05 Jan 2007, 11:00

I`ve been thinking about this filter housing problem,especally(?)the swarf thing messing up the pump.
How about these magnectic oil filter thingys,the ones that strap to the outside of the oil filter to catch any metal bits.
I wonder if they would fit onto the fuel filter housing to catch any swarf etc if the worst did happen.

rotodiesel · Post by **rotodiesel** » 05 Jan 2007, 17:25

I had a hand in the comments on the HJ site. A magnet won't work because some of the in-tank electric pumps shed bits of brass from their brush holders. Fit the VAG filter instead (you could leave the existing one in place).

rotodiesel.

np · Post by np » 05 Jan 2007, 17:35

Oh well there goes that idea then.I was quite chuffed about my thought

.Will have to look into the VAG filter as you say.

rotodiesel · Post by **rotodiesel** » 05 Jan 2007, 18:54

Hope you find a neat way to fit this filter. Remember, to avoid fuel waxing in the filter under cold conditions, you should ideally have the filter on the engine, under the noise reduction cover. Failing this, find the warmest spot you can and always run with Winter diesel when needed, never veg oil. A waxed filter element is an absolute b****r to clear.

Best of luck - I don't visit here often now as I bought the VAG as a towcar (damned good so far) but I miss the PSA "soul" - the VAG car is more like a well honed washing machine.

rotodiesel.

BK · Post by BK » 10 Jan 2007, 08:10

I still havnt got the car back, they are still not sure what is wrong and are getting more test gear in and someone to use it.

How is the return pressure adjusted to give the .8bar pressure diff or is it preset and if so by what? I am not going to try and adjust it myself but I am curious about how it all works

BK · Post by BK » 28 Jan 2007, 08:19

I got the car back last week jan 20th. It turned out to be a faulty sensor on the cam shaft and the imobilizer.

I hate cars I cant fix myself and it looks like my diy days are nearly over.

BK