Driveshaft replacement

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raytriplej
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Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 04:14

Driveshaft replacement

Post by raytriplej » 13 Oct 2002, 09:31

Hello again,
Just a short note to ask just how difficult it is to replace the driveshafts on my 205 Diesel? I don't know whether it is a "do it yourself on the street job" or a "oh my god, just give it to your mechanic and be done with it job". I see on the AndySpares online shop the driveshafts are £48 each, so that plus labour would add up!
Any replies would be appreciated,
Ray Downey

Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns » 13 Oct 2002, 15:19

The most trouble people seem to have doing this is getting the hub nut off, its a big bugger and it will be very tight.
If its a staked on nut you need a new one to go back on, if its got a pin through it, it goes back on, you need a torque wrench with a suitable (high) capacity.
The gearbox oil needs draining, so fresh oil required there, check the diff for oil leaks where the shafts come out, new seals may be required, its wise to fit new seals with fresh shafts anyway, though you may not fancy doing this if you have to do it in the street.
The nearside shaft is easey to swap, the offside shaft has the intermediate bearing on it and is a little bit more difficult, don't know if new ones come with the bearing fitted, I suspect not.
Get some penetrating oil and dose the bottom ball joint pinch bolt, the intermediate bearing retaining nuts and the hub nut a few days in advance of the job.
Loosen the hub nut (no more than 1/2 turn) while the car is still on the ground, don't allow the car to stand on its wheels without the drive shafts in and screwed up or the wheel bearings will be damaged.
Remove the bottom ball joint pinch bolt, tap the suspension arm down and swing the suspension leg out and off the driveshaft, then pull the shaft from the diff, if its the offside shaft the bearing will need to be released by screwing the nuts almost off, then turning the special bolt heads through a minimum angle of 90 degrees.
If you have the clobber and a safe level area (not a cambered road surface) to raise the car and can support it safely then have a go, its not difficult provided you use common sense to go about it.
But most of all make sure its safe, position axle stand's near the front subrame rear mounting bolts.
See if there is a branch of GSF near you as there will probably be a surcharge on drive shafts.
Dave

JohnD
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Post by JohnD » 13 Oct 2002, 15:33

Right hand driveshafts do come with the intermediate bearing already on. Thank God!

raytriplej
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Post by raytriplej » 14 Oct 2002, 00:13

Thanks for your replies. After considering the weather this weekend (and the coming winter), my lack of trolley jacks, socket sets etc. I think I will ask my mechanic for a quote.
Cheers,
Ray

NiSk
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Post by NiSk » 14 Oct 2002, 13:10

Ray, DON'T remove both driveshafts at the same time unless you have something roughly the same size as the end of the driveshaft to stick into one side in order to keep the final drive gears in place!
//NiSk

raytriplej
Posts: 19
Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 04:14

Post by raytriplej » 16 Oct 2002, 17:44

Does anyone know if the Andyspares/German, Swedish + French, Driveshaft come with CV joints and boots as well?
Ray

raytriplej
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Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 04:14

Post by raytriplej » 17 Oct 2002, 00:31

I just emailed them and found out that they do.
Now I just have to find someone who stocks the grease.
Cheers, Ray

Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns » 17 Oct 2002, 02:59

Drive shafts are supplied with both joint's built up, greased, booted and ready to fit, never heard of any that aren't, just bang 'em straight on.
The point NiSK made about removing both shaft's at the same time only refers to older model's, 1985 and older IIRC, but check with the manual first.
Dave
Edited by - Dave Burns on 16 Oct 2002 22:05:24

NiSk
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Post by NiSk » 17 Oct 2002, 19:03

Hi dave,
I was advised about the risks with taking out both driveshafts when I was about to change the clutch plate on my XM ('93)! Said workshop said it applied to nearly all fwd PSA's. Maybe thier info is out of date!
//NiSk

Jon

Post by Jon » 17 Oct 2002, 21:41

I've never had any trouble taking both shafts out, this is some myth that the Haynes manual or somesuch has carried on for years.
Another handy tip (Dave will probably have a go at me about this "shortcut") but if you're only removing one shaft, then jack up that side of the car only, and as high as you can, then you don't lose any gearbox oil as it runs to the other side of the gearbox!
I do however strongly recommend replacing the diff seals, they are not expensive. When disturbed they tend to leak.
Jon Wood
IT Supervisor
GSF t/as Andyspares

Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns » 18 Oct 2002, 01:40

Hehehe, Jon Wood you are a cheat, that might indeed work for the right hand shaft as most of the oil would migrate to the main part of the box, not a chance for the left one because the oposit will happen and fill the diff area with oil.
Hi NiSK, you probably already know that its still safe to remove both shafts from such a diff as long as you insert a keeper (wooden peg or old cv joint) into the diff before taking out the other shaft.
As long as one of the side gear's is held in postion, it also prevents the other one from moving.
Dave

spanners
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Post by spanners » 18 Oct 2002, 02:38

have removed loads of pairs of driveshafts at same time when doing clutches on psa (BE) gearboxes never had a problem even remove speedo housing to make things easier on some. i heard of this broom handle method early on in my mechanical days when dealing with fords but never had aproblem with cits or pugs.

raytriplej
Posts: 19
Joined: 29 Sep 2002, 04:14

Post by raytriplej » 29 Oct 2002, 01:17

My Mechanic changed the driveshafts and diff seals for me on the weekend. I rang him about it and he quoted £150 each shaft. I said, I saw them on the net at ANDYSPARES for £48ex vat. He let me buy them and only charged £60 to fit. I am well happy.
Ray

mg46783
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Post by mg46783 » 29 Oct 2002, 06:40

HIya.... this little lot has made interesting reading,,, esp. ref; the removal of both shafts at one time. I have to say Ive never heard of that being a problem...surely the gearbox/diff internals wouldnt just all "collapse" cos of it?! So, if and when I finally get an engine for my td zx - what am I advised to do ? cos I certailnly would never have thought of this! I suppose actually what could be done is to pull the rubber of the inner joint and just leave the hub part in the box (?) Ive done this before with other fwd's but that was mainly with a view to keeping the oil in !!!!
Ok... <<waiting the answers coming <<< <ggg> ;-)

Dave Burns
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Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
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Post by Dave Burns » 30 Oct 2002, 02:21

Don't worry about it, its not going to happen, it was only a potential problem on early <85 boxes, my 88 205GLD box didn't have any trouble with both shafts out nor did the 93 ZXTD.
So forget about it and just yank'em out<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave