106 1995 questions - please help???

will16v · Post by **will16v** » 26 Jun 2005, 13:54

Hi,
I've just got a 95 106 1.1 aztec on the cheap, but it seems to be using lots of water.
The engine however doesnt seem to overheat, fan working ok, no water in oil or vice versa, no leaks, but when i checked the water i need to fill up - was just under max last time i filled up, now half way down between the 'min/max'reading on the side of the rad...
Did a journey in the heat last week, bout 2 hours in traffic, checked water y'day, and its used a fair bit - is it just the recent heat, and me being paranoid?
I really can't see where else the water would be going...?!?!
Also, need to replace cv joints for M.O.T - do i need a garage with a press, to remove the worn items, and replace the new ones,or can i hammer them out myself?
Thanks in advance for your help! [8D]

Peter D · Post by **Peter D** » 26 Jun 2005, 15:21

Check the rad very carefully, at that age the rads are prone to seap and very difficult to locate. Regards Peter

madasafish · Post by **madasafish** » 26 Jun 2005, 22:38

CV joints? Easier to replace complete driveshafts...imo

will16v · Post by **will16v** » 30 Jun 2005, 04:31

Thanks for the replies...got some new drive shafts from a french breakers - thanks for the info - as for the radiator, i might try some radseal...? what do you think?

Post by **Richard Green** » 30 Jun 2005, 04:59

rad seal forget it, use STP engine water seal it also lubricates the the water pump.

Post by **Richard Green** » 30 Jun 2005, 05:07

cv joint I agree its easier to change the full shaft and cheaper.

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 30 Jun 2005, 15:12

Yup. Replace the driveshafts as a complete item. I don't think the CV joint can be replaced on its own as it's integral to the shaft. Fairly straightforward. You'll probably need a new fill of gearbox oil though as when the shafts come out so does the oil. I've heard stories of parking it on a lean and hoping that none spills out. Personally don't have a lot of confidence in that, but haven' tried it.

madasafish · Post by **madasafish** » 30 Jun 2005, 18:09

You will also need gearbox seals : note in typical French style these are different for different sides! (if not you will b***er one up and it will leak.)
I recommend a synthetic gearoil as it is little more expensive but more efficient friction wise.
I've changed 2 shafts and would not recommend the "lean" option...
Also the Haynes manual is optimistic. I recommend removing the bottom wishbone bolt completely.. as on the diesel the exhaust gets in the way on the driver's side...

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 30 Jun 2005, 18:23

I changed the shafts on both sides not that long ago. This wasn't too hard.
I got by with just dropping the bottom wishbone mount on the hub, loosening the nuts on the top of the suspension strut in the engine bay and undoing the hub nut. Anti roll bar mount was removed as well.The outboard end of the shaft could then be pulled out of the hub (take care not to pull it out of the gearbox yet). All thats left to do is carefully pull the shaft from the gearbox, as there's nothing holding it in. Support the stub that goes into the gearbox so that it won't knock the seal out of place. Have a tub ready to catch the oil as it will come pouring out at this point.
Putting the new shaft in was just a reversal of this.
[edit] I reused the existing seals with no probs. No leaks so far.