I have just changed the head gasket on girlfriends 1992 1.9 diesel but do not have the torque/angle settings for the new head bolts. Anyone out there kind enough to have a look at their workshop manual and advise me as to the correct figures?
Incidentally, I am only changing the head gasket as I noticed an oil leak below the head/block line (but not from the rocker cover gasket which is dry) and oil drops in the coolant.
The car has done 155,000 miles but isn't serviced every 6,000 miles. In fact the last oil change went 9,000 overdue. I was expecting all sorts of trouble when I removed the head but was amazed at the condition of the bores - Honing marks still look fresh, next to no wear ridge and no scuff marks! I attribute the good condition to using a semi-synth oil and regular commuting on motorways. It also helps that the PSA group of diesels are great engines.
However, with the engine out, I could also see oil leaks from the front and rear crank seals, the front camshaft seal, plus the valve stem oil seals have hardened and allowing oil to pool up when car is not used. So the relevant parts have been ordered plus I am also changing the steering rack, control arm bushes and alternator which will keep me busy for a weekend. Bodily, the car is in great shape and has always driven well. Some might say it would have been cheaper to buy a new car but I know the history of this one so didn't want to start with an unknown quantity.[:)]
309 Diesel head bolt torque setting
Moderator: RichardW
-
fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1388
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- Location: On the road, travelling at high speed. Meep Meep.
- My Cars:
- x 4
Having consulted the "Peugeot/Talbot Diesel engine" Haynes manual (only goes to 1990 though), the 306 Haynes manual and the 405 Haynes manual, it would appear that the torque figures you need are:
Stage 1: 30 LbFt
Stage 2: 70 LbFt
Stage 3: 120 degrees angle tighten.
There are some other torque figures quoted, (20LbFt, 60LbFt, 180degrees) but these are for the (slightly)more powerful 70HP oval port engine. as yours is the 65HP Square-port engine, you need to use the ones listed above. I've certainly used these before on a Square-port engine, and it was fine.
While the head is off, it's well worth grinding the valves in, setting the clearances, changing all the oil seals (they seem to last for about 100k miles and then weep continuously, but never get any worse!) and of course changing the cambelt. The belt is a 10-minute job with the engine out and about 4 hours with it in! Also worth changing is the cam cover gasket. It may not be leaking now, but you can guarantee that after being disturbed, it will leak like a sieve. The rubber goes so hard it isn't funny, and a new one is only a couple of quid (or comes in a complete head set, which is probably your best bet)
With the engine and box out, it's also well worth having a look at the condition of the clutch. Again, this is another 20 minute job with the engine out, and about 4-5 hours with it in. Having just recently done both a belt and a clutch on a 309, I took the engine out and saved about a day's work!
Stage 1: 30 LbFt
Stage 2: 70 LbFt
Stage 3: 120 degrees angle tighten.
There are some other torque figures quoted, (20LbFt, 60LbFt, 180degrees) but these are for the (slightly)more powerful 70HP oval port engine. as yours is the 65HP Square-port engine, you need to use the ones listed above. I've certainly used these before on a Square-port engine, and it was fine.
While the head is off, it's well worth grinding the valves in, setting the clearances, changing all the oil seals (they seem to last for about 100k miles and then weep continuously, but never get any worse!) and of course changing the cambelt. The belt is a 10-minute job with the engine out and about 4 hours with it in! Also worth changing is the cam cover gasket. It may not be leaking now, but you can guarantee that after being disturbed, it will leak like a sieve. The rubber goes so hard it isn't funny, and a new one is only a couple of quid (or comes in a complete head set, which is probably your best bet)
With the engine and box out, it's also well worth having a look at the condition of the clutch. Again, this is another 20 minute job with the engine out, and about 4-5 hours with it in. Having just recently done both a belt and a clutch on a 309, I took the engine out and saved about a day's work!
-
fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1388
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- Location: On the road, travelling at high speed. Meep Meep.
- My Cars:
- x 4
Many thanks!
yes, I am going to replace clutch as it is the original and is oil contaminated and nearly down to the rivets. I have just looked at valves and although I can't discern any wear in the guides, they could do with a bit of a grinding in. The old belt was oil contaminated (from leaking cam seal) so I will put a new one on.
Removing engine was childs play compared to doing the same job on my Citroen XM 2.1 TD. That took a day just to strip all the front end and hydraulics out plus a day to persuade the engine to pass through the gap left by the removal of said front end. The Pug took 8 hours and I found my Sealy Tools load leveller very useful to drop one end to clear subframe.
If anyone out there is thinking about extracting an engine for the first time, a good tip is to put the car on 4 axle stands so it remains level. This helps with engine removal as then, the heavy diesel lump doesn't want to swing towards the bulkhead and the gearbox diff housing avoids catching on the subframe. Keepinf the car level also helps when re-installing the engine.
Doc
Once again thanks for the info!
yes, I am going to replace clutch as it is the original and is oil contaminated and nearly down to the rivets. I have just looked at valves and although I can't discern any wear in the guides, they could do with a bit of a grinding in. The old belt was oil contaminated (from leaking cam seal) so I will put a new one on.
Removing engine was childs play compared to doing the same job on my Citroen XM 2.1 TD. That took a day just to strip all the front end and hydraulics out plus a day to persuade the engine to pass through the gap left by the removal of said front end. The Pug took 8 hours and I found my Sealy Tools load leveller very useful to drop one end to clear subframe.
If anyone out there is thinking about extracting an engine for the first time, a good tip is to put the car on 4 axle stands so it remains level. This helps with engine removal as then, the heavy diesel lump doesn't want to swing towards the bulkhead and the gearbox diff housing avoids catching on the subframe. Keepinf the car level also helps when re-installing the engine.
Doc
Once again thanks for the info!
-
fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1388
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- Location: On the road, travelling at high speed. Meep Meep.
- My Cars:
- x 4