405 c/l problem

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demag
(Donor 2016)
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405 c/l problem

Post by demag »

The central locking on the o/s rear door on my 405 has always been a bit iffy. And to make sure it was locked I had to push the interior button down as I got out of the car. I decided to have a look at it over the weekend in the nice weather. However when I got the trim off I saw that access to the lock area was very bad and not covered very well in Haynes. I decided not to mess but to spray some lube on the linkages and put it back together.
I don't know what's happened but it won't work at all now! I wish I hadn't touched it!
The c/l actuator appears to be working because I can see the movement but its not locking the door. Could it be the lock that's knackered or the linkage? I really don't know.
The old saying springs to mind, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" Doh......[V]
PowerLee
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My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
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1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2
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Post by PowerLee »

Hi
The rear locking rods are a bit of a pain sometimes & taking it apart can be a right swine.
Take the door trim off again, Theres a kind of round rachet assy inside the door this is part of the lock rod that can give problems.
Are you sure you havent trapped the linkage behind the trim when you put it back together?
Are you sure the door isnt really locking & its not just a dodgy locking button looking open, Has happend to people before.
Do you know the trick about getting the lock buttons on & off?
To get the button OFF press in the small hole with a flate blade screwdriver & lift the button off.
To get it back on again, On the back of the lock button there is a small clip, This clip must be in the LOWER hole when you try to attach it to the lock rod.
To attach the clip, Shut the door & push the rod down so its locked, Now with the lock button & clip in the LOWER hole, Guide the end of the button in to its housing in the door, Line the end of the lock rod up & push it firmly down.
The lock button clip will now move to the UPPER hole & grip the lock rod.
If the clip is worn out, a new one is less then a £1 from Peugeot, A whole lock button is less then £2 too.
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demag
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Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 05:03
Location: Black Country, aye it ar kid.
My Cars: "H" Citroen Bx Tgs Automatic.
2006 Toyota Prius T4 Gen 2.
x 102

Post by demag »

Thanks PowerLee,
I won't be able to check till the weekend now.
I saw the round ratchet assy and lubed it. Thats towards the front of the door isn't it, where the rod heads up towards the locking button.
I don't think I trapped the linkage anywhere as far as I know.
The door definitely isn't locking, I can open it from outside.
The only thing that doesn't look right is the locking button, which seems a bit low in its slot now. Could I have put that on wrong which is restricting the travel of the mechanism?
Apart from that its the original problem thats puzzling me, why I had to push the button to lock the door.
If I undo all the holding screws will the lock drop into the door so I can retrieve it for examination? How is the c/l actuator located because I can't see?
Originally I thought either something had gone a bit stiff and wanted lubing, or a linkage hole had worn so the c/l actuator movement wasn't being transferred to the lock. As soon as I can check I'll report back with any findings.
Thanks.
PowerLee
Posts: 1260
Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2
x 1

Post by PowerLee »

Hi
If the locking button is not attached right it can stop the door locking.
Have a look at my earlier post above for the little trick needed with the 405 locking buttons.
Getting the lock assy out the door is a bit of a sod, The oustide handle has to go off, Thats only 1 x 10mm bolt & you have to flick a couple of clips off to unhook the rods from the lock assy.
Do any of the locking rods look bent?
Are they clipped to the door correctly? Theres some black plastic guide clips that support the rods attached to the doors.
For once the Haynes book of lies comes in handy in the task.
Ive done my own rear door a couple of months ago & it took me about a hour to get it out & put it all back again.
Take the trim off & have a go at it again, Also when you get it sorted you MUST make sure you seal the white door membrane up where you have cut it.
Also theres plenty of spare parts in the scrapyard if need be, It looks a right pain to do but if you go slowly & read the Haynes book it will go fine.
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demag
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Posts: 1441
Joined: 18 Oct 2004, 05:03
Location: Black Country, aye it ar kid.
My Cars: "H" Citroen Bx Tgs Automatic.
2006 Toyota Prius T4 Gen 2.
x 102

Post by demag »

Thanks PowerLee,
You're a star.
I had another go at it today while the weather was nice. It was a pig getting it out, mainly because I couldn't see what went where and I didn't want to damage anything.
It turned out to be the lock mechanism that was dry and stiff so I lubed it all properly while it was out and worked all the linkages to make sure it was all free.
I took my time and made sure everything went back correctly. It turned out I hadn't got the lock button on right last time and it took three goes to get it right this time following your instructions.
It works great now. The whole job took about 2 1/2 hours including a rain break. And apart from a few scratches on my hands and sore knees (!), I had no problems.
Cheers mate, you certainly know your Pugs. [:D]
PowerLee
Posts: 1260
Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2
x 1

Post by PowerLee »

Nice to hear its sorted & working again.
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