106 Loss of power
Moderator: RichardW
106 Loss of power
Hi. I'm new to this so please bear with me.
We have an L reg Peugeot 106 Roland Garros 1.4. It idles pretty roughly and there seems to be a loss of power when applying a lot of revs from 2nd. When coming out of a corner and then accelerating, there can be a total cut out of power, and then, bang its there again. After the kick it will carry on at about 50% power until revs have built when it then recovers normal power.
When setting off the same can occur unless you really feather out the clutch.
The heater matrix was replaced about 2mths ago by a garage and that also appears to have gone again.
I would really appreciate it if someone could give me a few ideas with this.
Thanks.
We have an L reg Peugeot 106 Roland Garros 1.4. It idles pretty roughly and there seems to be a loss of power when applying a lot of revs from 2nd. When coming out of a corner and then accelerating, there can be a total cut out of power, and then, bang its there again. After the kick it will carry on at about 50% power until revs have built when it then recovers normal power.
When setting off the same can occur unless you really feather out the clutch.
The heater matrix was replaced about 2mths ago by a garage and that also appears to have gone again.
I would really appreciate it if someone could give me a few ideas with this.
Thanks.
As you mention ECU I am assuming this is a petrol TU3 engined car. I didn't think they had ECUs at this age, some early 106s even had chokes. I would suggest changing the fuel filter (incase its discintigrating and causing a block), and checking the HT circuit, a hairline crack in the distributor cap assuming its not electronic could be the cause.
Not sure what your swooshing could be!
Not sure what your swooshing could be!
Before you do anything fix the swooshing sound as this is probably air in your cooling system which can cause localised overheading and damage to the head. Fix this first. The power problem may be as simple as high resistance TH leads. These should be no more than 1.5 K ohms per 330 mm. Often the problem here is the insert at the plug end that sticks into the carbon lead centre corrodes and its resistance can rise to over 25 K ohms. Remove leads carfully, i.e. to dot stain, and test these cold. If all's ok then check coil etc then move onto the fueling aspects. Does this engine model have a manifold heater as is it working. Regards Peter
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Peter D</i>
Before you do anything fix the swooshing sound as this is probably air in your cooling system
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Anything on the web about how to blead the system, or do I just admit my total lack of knowlege and take it to a garage?
Thanks for the replies!
Before you do anything fix the swooshing sound as this is probably air in your cooling system
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Anything on the web about how to blead the system, or do I just admit my total lack of knowlege and take it to a garage?
Thanks for the replies!
The best way is to raise the frony of the car and temporarily extend ( water tight ) the header tank by sealing a cut off plastic pop bottle to the header tank then filling this so the water level is maintained above the height of the rear bleed valve ( O/S Strut ) and the N/S trad top bleed valve which rotates then you lift it up to open. Repeated bleeding this whilst the engine is running should clear the air. However I am concerned how the air got in there. Before doing all this fancy bleeding I would suggest a bleed with the front raised and then replace the cap. Go for a run to get the carefully up to temp then carefully remove the header cap until the pressure has fallen, then replace the cap and run the engine again say a mile then carefully remove the cap again, if it has repressurised itself again then I suspect the head gasket is leaking/weeping. You have not mentioned loosing water or excess pressure in the rad pipes or signs of emulsion in the camcover so you need to do a few checks and come back to the forum with the results. You had better remove the plugs and identify if the water you have lost thus allowing the air in has been burnt off in a cylinder, the offending cylinder plug will be cleancompared to the others and is you bring that piston up to the top and shine a light in through the plug hole the piston may be quite clean. Regards Peter
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Check all the spark plug leads and possibly spray some WD40 on the connections (ie. unplug each lead and give the bare terminals a spray). Check that you dont have a dodgy lead that may be partially broken inside. Movement or vibration of the engine and moisture creeping in could cause it to work intermittently. If in doubt you clould just replace the lot. Don't think leads are that expensive.
Don't know whether the 106 1.4 has a distributor or if it's all electronic. It would be worth checking the distributor cap (if it's got one) thoroughly for hairline cracks which could let moisture in. Had a similar problem on a volvo 340 where the dist. cap had a crack in it. The crack was very difficult to spot but a new cap sorted the problem.
Don't know whether the 106 1.4 has a distributor or if it's all electronic. It would be worth checking the distributor cap (if it's got one) thoroughly for hairline cracks which could let moisture in. Had a similar problem on a volvo 340 where the dist. cap had a crack in it. The crack was very difficult to spot but a new cap sorted the problem.
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Hi, I am having the same problem with my 106 roland garros, i thought it may be a vacume leak in the carbaretta, replaced leads and plugs still a slight problem, the breather hose that connects to the engine head is very soft and flexible, dont know if this is a problem.
Might try changing the fuel filter tomorrow!
Might try changing the fuel filter tomorrow!