Bleeding-well snapped off bleed screw.

This is the Forum for all your Peugeot Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

Moderator: RichardW

Posts: 64
Joined: 18 Mar 2002, 18:55

Bleeding-well snapped off bleed screw.

Post by StuartR » 21 Aug 2002, 21:06

pug 205D 92J reg
I've been doing up front brakes, and was finishing up with a
system bleed and.....
I'd read in an artical previous about someone doing up a gti and the
bleed nipples snaping off on him (he had to get new recond. ones)
he had said he had expected it as it always happens.
So it was in the back of my mind, but sure enough same thing happened,
even though completly different make caliper.
So back are ok (in steel drums)
but front - one jammed, too scared to try moving it
and the other snapped, but not leaking as it didn't move
1. I think i'm going to try getting it out with an easiout stud remover, there's already the whole down centre
has anyone used these much
2. I was told not to bother with a cheap set as they'll probably snap
halfords do an £8 set which looks good and I've been quoted £10
for Dorma at engineering supplier
I've got some Black Spear ones already
for £1.50 which are carbon steel look good but risky
3. Also advised to heat surrounding area but I can hardly use a blow torch on
on a caliper, thought about trying boiling water, or hairdrier any use?
currently topping up with release spray dayly to help a bit

Dave Burns
Posts: 1916
Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
x 2

Post by Dave Burns » 22 Aug 2002, 00:23

Give it a try because there is nothing to loose, heating up the localised area round the nipple will help, but you really need an oxy torch to pump alot of heat in fast, that way you don't roast the whole caliper.
If the easyout fails try driving the appropriate torx bit in, the splines may get enough purchase to fetch it out.
If that fails its a drilling job, but thats not without risk.
To get you out of a jam you can loosen the flexible pipe where it enters the calpier and bleed it past the threads, it can be messy but it gets you going again.
The one you haven't tried yet, give it a couple of good clouts square on the end with a 2lb hammer before trying to shift it.
And if you are interested I have a pair of diesel non vented Bendix calipers nocking about, they have 8000 miles on em from new, tenner apiece plus postage.

Posts: 1422
Joined: 24 Jan 2002, 21:11
x 1

Post by NiSk » 22 Aug 2002, 13:12

A word of advice from one who didn't think when using a torch to loosen a bleed screw - disconnect the brake hose from the caliper first. When i performed this trick for the first time, the brake fluid boiled and blew the hose off the crimped on connector!!
Can also say that I've NEVER managed to dig out a broken off bleed screw with an extractor - unfortuanately the metal in the bleed screw is quite thin and the extractor just causes it to expand; in the end you end up with a broken extractor in a broken bleed screw!! No fun!
I can tell you that it was no fun drilling out the extractor with a carbid drill!

Posts: 64
Joined: 18 Mar 2002, 18:55

Post by StuartR » 25 Aug 2002, 16:32

Dave, thanks for the advise I'm sorry I didn't try giving it a tap with a hammer before it snapped, I'll try on the other though.
About the calipers, I'll keep that in mind, that's a very kind offer, at the moment car's usable as snapped screw did not turn and the back only checked for movement, so no air will have entered but don't like leaving it.
Nisk, thanks you've definetly put me off heating the caliper!
but not so encouraging about getting screw out. I see your point about it expanding screw, which does sort of compound the problem.
Sorry I ever thought about bleeding the brakes to begin with,
Ignorance is bliss.

Posts: 1422
Joined: 24 Jan 2002, 21:11
x 1

Post by NiSk » 26 Aug 2002, 18:34

When I was doing this trick on my daughters VW Passat (idiot German designers - who in their right mind would fit a bleed screw that sticks out 2 cmm with the hex section right at the top - it's just asking to break off), I decided to just drill out the bleed screw - it's got a nice parallel guide hole right down the middle - you can hardly go wrong! Anyhow, having drilled out a clearance hole slightly smaller than the screws inner diameter, I started the tap in the remainder if the screw, the first time i backed off the tap, I noticed that the screw followed along! So it came out on the end of the tap! I suppose that the heat generated by drilling and tapping caused the screw to expand and crack the rust joint, making it easy to remove.
Can't promise that this will always happen mind you!

Posts: 104
Joined: 02 Sep 2002, 02:16

Post by mg46783 » 21 Sep 2002, 01:50

I had a similar experience the other week with a Vauxhalls old baby - the Nova! I used heat from a map - gas blow lamp - plenty hot enough.. but sure enough you melt the rubber hose out of its metal piece.. so, disconnect any thing rubber first - Including, I would advise - the pistons out of the calliper... because of the rubber seals... the fluid may boil but that doesnt matter cos - after youve let the whole thing cool - before - you refit the rubber bits (hint hint ) you will bleed out all the old -boiled fluid anyhow.
Ive NEVER has success drilling and trying to shoehorn a broken bleeder - that said, Im thinking of those stupoid little things... you may well have some luck with the bigger ones I dont know... but bear in mind that the threads are tapered too !!
I would take up the offer of the callipers.. cant go wrong at that!
ok..thats all for now folks.. Im getting glared at !