405: Major Works
Moderator: RichardW
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405: Major Works
Am gearing up for some pretty serious works to my 405 Diesel Estate (na), which will include:-
Replacement engine
Replacement Gearbox
Replacement Clutch Kit
Removal of remainder of AC equipment
Investigation of possible slight buckling to OSF Inner Wing following an accident about 5 years ago
Investigation to structure, particularly difficult to access areas of Inner Wings
New Radiator
Revised Alternator and PAS Pump set up, replacing the 'Custom' Set up the car is running currently, without AC Pump but with an Alloy AC Sump (replacement engine has my preferred Steel Sump)
Adding Earths to the Headlights, which are probably cause of a bizarre but minor electrical issue
Possibly a non-standard Heater Matrix return Hose, with Bleed Valve
Attempting to get the damn key-ringy thing onto the Inner Tie Rod Sleeve, while the lump's out; which I've never managed to successfully fit
...am thinking maybe it'd be a good idea to do a bit of a blog here and looking for an indication as to whether this'd be welcomed
As yet a spanner has not yet been laid on the car, but the past four days a good few hours have gone into preparations regarding the replacement engine as pictures demonstrate... to some extent
Overview: space cleared to work beside the engines. Engine in foreground is ex 306 and will be pressed into service. Alysun my Kneeler has just been re-stuffed. .
Damaged Oil Cooler came off without Drama. Believed broken in course of physcially getting it out of the scrapyard.... which was as hard as removing it! Bottom Pulley came off without Drama. Idlers spin sweetly as does Water Pump and condition of these and Cam Belt, which I've changed; implies an engine that was once well maintained, with no sign of excessive oil fouling behind the covers, which have been cleaned and refitted. I've made a big note not to forget to remove the Pins locking the various pulleys.
Car had a recorded 199k on it when I removed the Lump about 3 years ago; it was a memorable day, one of those when it rains lightly all day. I did my best to be underneath it or the bonnet. Clutch also came off easily, its shot both in terms of Pressure Plate and Friction Linings. I'm probably going to use the German clutch off the ZX engine, which will take nearly as long to clean up as the Gearbox did earlier today (not shown).... but will see what condition my rather heavy 5 year old Borg & Beck clutch is in when I remove the engine.
Replacement engine
Replacement Gearbox
Replacement Clutch Kit
Removal of remainder of AC equipment
Investigation of possible slight buckling to OSF Inner Wing following an accident about 5 years ago
Investigation to structure, particularly difficult to access areas of Inner Wings
New Radiator
Revised Alternator and PAS Pump set up, replacing the 'Custom' Set up the car is running currently, without AC Pump but with an Alloy AC Sump (replacement engine has my preferred Steel Sump)
Adding Earths to the Headlights, which are probably cause of a bizarre but minor electrical issue
Possibly a non-standard Heater Matrix return Hose, with Bleed Valve
Attempting to get the damn key-ringy thing onto the Inner Tie Rod Sleeve, while the lump's out; which I've never managed to successfully fit
...am thinking maybe it'd be a good idea to do a bit of a blog here and looking for an indication as to whether this'd be welcomed
As yet a spanner has not yet been laid on the car, but the past four days a good few hours have gone into preparations regarding the replacement engine as pictures demonstrate... to some extent
Overview: space cleared to work beside the engines. Engine in foreground is ex 306 and will be pressed into service. Alysun my Kneeler has just been re-stuffed. .
Damaged Oil Cooler came off without Drama. Believed broken in course of physcially getting it out of the scrapyard.... which was as hard as removing it! Bottom Pulley came off without Drama. Idlers spin sweetly as does Water Pump and condition of these and Cam Belt, which I've changed; implies an engine that was once well maintained, with no sign of excessive oil fouling behind the covers, which have been cleaned and refitted. I've made a big note not to forget to remove the Pins locking the various pulleys.
Car had a recorded 199k on it when I removed the Lump about 3 years ago; it was a memorable day, one of those when it rains lightly all day. I did my best to be underneath it or the bonnet. Clutch also came off easily, its shot both in terms of Pressure Plate and Friction Linings. I'm probably going to use the German clutch off the ZX engine, which will take nearly as long to clean up as the Gearbox did earlier today (not shown).... but will see what condition my rather heavy 5 year old Borg & Beck clutch is in when I remove the engine.
Puxa
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- x 232
Re: 405: Major Works
Hmm, I guess not, so I won't continue with the Thread. The world has changed considerably since my XUD was made and am sure many of you have done engine transplants goodness knows how many times. Thought it'd be nice to 'offer'. Happy weekend everyone
Puxa
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OnlinePaul-R
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Re: 405: Major Works
You didn't give much time for replies. To be fair there isn't as much interest in Peugeots compared to Citroens here but it would have been interesting to see what you had planned. Well, never mind.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
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Re: 405: Major Works
Wha- hey, wait what's happened?
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Re: 405: Major Works
I hope you keep it going I never seen the work you are planning to do be simple and easy and boring.
Oh buggle
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Re: 405: Major Works
Still some 405 fans out there You didn't fancy a turbo engine?
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
- Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur
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- x 232
Re: 405: Major Works
Oooh, OK, will continue. Didn't want to be teaching me Granny to suck eggs, like....
Occurred to me I hadn't quite started at the beginning....
This is the Gearbox Donor, a very rotten ZX with a spectacularly failed HG (it ran remarkably well nonethless). It was actually bought for its recently recon'd Injection Pump which will be pressed into use for the first time upon fitting (a Garage mis-diagnosed what turned out to be a chaffed fuel line back in Autumn 2016) and the Engine Donor, a 306 in a Scrapyard. I was very fortunate in that having man-handled it to the main drag, someone was willing to help me lift it over the boot of a Rover 4 series Saloon; there was no 'continuous walkway'. It was a horrible day, as you can tell. Thought did occur to me to drop a TD in it Ally, but a number of reasons why not
1: its easy to stay at legal speeds with an NA Diesel
2: this'll be the first time I've done an engine change un-assisted; so I'm keeping it as simple as possible
3. all of my stashed parts relate to NA Diesels, and I'm doing it as cheaply as possible, which is part of the reason why I'm not doing the HG on the engine in situ (that and numerous other faults listed prior)
Actual works since my first instalment include:
Careful removal of the Thrust Bearing from the new Gearbox, I used an old TB to work out how it came off then gentle heat from a Painters Heat Gun to remove it without breaking the 'Tags' and cleaning of the extremely cruddy Gearbox I was on here reminding myself how to Solder, so I'm gonna get back to that and will run another update in the next few days.
Occurred to me I hadn't quite started at the beginning....
This is the Gearbox Donor, a very rotten ZX with a spectacularly failed HG (it ran remarkably well nonethless). It was actually bought for its recently recon'd Injection Pump which will be pressed into use for the first time upon fitting (a Garage mis-diagnosed what turned out to be a chaffed fuel line back in Autumn 2016) and the Engine Donor, a 306 in a Scrapyard. I was very fortunate in that having man-handled it to the main drag, someone was willing to help me lift it over the boot of a Rover 4 series Saloon; there was no 'continuous walkway'. It was a horrible day, as you can tell. Thought did occur to me to drop a TD in it Ally, but a number of reasons why not
1: its easy to stay at legal speeds with an NA Diesel
2: this'll be the first time I've done an engine change un-assisted; so I'm keeping it as simple as possible
3. all of my stashed parts relate to NA Diesels, and I'm doing it as cheaply as possible, which is part of the reason why I'm not doing the HG on the engine in situ (that and numerous other faults listed prior)
Actual works since my first instalment include:
Careful removal of the Thrust Bearing from the new Gearbox, I used an old TB to work out how it came off then gentle heat from a Painters Heat Gun to remove it without breaking the 'Tags' and cleaning of the extremely cruddy Gearbox I was on here reminding myself how to Solder, so I'm gonna get back to that and will run another update in the next few days.
Puxa
- white exec
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1992 BX19D Millesime hatch LHD
previously 1989 BX19RD, 1998 ZX 1.9D auto, 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto
and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S - x 1752
Re: 405: Major Works
A good thread on a nice rescue, Puxa. Keep it going.
A lot to be said for a NA XUD - with just basic maintenance, they can last decades.
HG is definitely the weak point if coolant and coolant bleeding are neglected.
Our NA 1.9 BX lacked any kind of header tank, and so the side-tank radiator ran with a permanent large air gap under the filler cap. We stopped this off (blank cap) and fitted a header tank with pressure cap. All air locks disappeared, and the replacement head ane HG went on to do another 160k miles and beyond.
A lot to be said for a NA XUD - with just basic maintenance, they can last decades.
HG is definitely the weak point if coolant and coolant bleeding are neglected.
Our NA 1.9 BX lacked any kind of header tank, and so the side-tank radiator ran with a permanent large air gap under the filler cap. We stopped this off (blank cap) and fitted a header tank with pressure cap. All air locks disappeared, and the replacement head ane HG went on to do another 160k miles and beyond.
Chris
Re: 405: Major Works
Good thread, keep it going. These are fab donkeys these 405's.
Citroen C5 1.6 HDI 110bhp Estate 06 plate
French Mistresses gone.
Citroen C5 HDI Mk 1 hatchback
Vel Satis 3.5 v6
ZX 1.9D Est.
ZX 1.9DHatch
Xantia 1.9td est.
Xantia 2.0 hdi Est.
Xantia V6 MK1
Xantia V6 MK 2
French Mistresses gone.
Citroen C5 HDI Mk 1 hatchback
Vel Satis 3.5 v6
ZX 1.9D Est.
ZX 1.9DHatch
Xantia 1.9td est.
Xantia 2.0 hdi Est.
Xantia V6 MK1
Xantia V6 MK 2
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Re: 405: Major Works
So what went wrong with the original engine?
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
- Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur
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- x 232
Re: 405: Major Works
My side-tank rad has run for years with a similarly large air gap under the filler cap, such that I got to learn that topping it up to the ‘Maxi’ mark was just daft. It ran with the water level just beyond easy vision without a torch... and indeed still does. Its not actually using any Coolant except for the odd drop that spills out when I loosen the Rad Cap to let some of the pressure outwhite exec wrote: ↑20 Oct 2019, 18:36 Our NA 1.9 BX lacked any kind of header tank, and so the side-tank radiator ran with a permanent large air gap under the filler cap. We stopped this off (blank cap) and fitted a header tank with pressure cap....
I’d love to come up with a ‘Header Tank’ arrangement for mine, which it seems must be possible as the available under-bonnet room in a BX is almost certainly less than my 405, not just coz of the slightly smaller body, but the BX also has to accommodate suspension Spheres.
Can you remember how you did it?
....do you have any photos?
Did you find a way to drill into the Rad and get a water tight feed?
....or maybe you used an existing Rad fitting, mine has at least one spare.
Or possibly you tee’d into the Heater Matrix return Hose?
And I’m not sure what you mean by a ‘Blank Cap’, rather than a pressure cap on the Rad.
I could possibly relocate the Windscreen Washer Reservoir and put a Header Tank there
....but somehow you found room for one under the bonnet of a BX
Pictured BX 'Taxi' with the NA, at Festival of the Unexceptional My ‘nightmare scenario’ is to fail to bleed it properly upon installation, which, despite my considerable care when I changed the (rather manky) coolant a few months ago could possibly account for the current weepy HG; such a Header Tank system would remove this risk.
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
Head Gasket's weeping Ally, and I promised myself if I ever had HG issues again, I wouldn't mess about; just drop a replacement lump in.
....which makes sense from the point of view of the numerous other small issues that I've been meaning to get around to (at the very start of the Thread)
....and its actually considerably cheaper for me than a Set of Head Bolts, a Skim & Pressure Test and a Gasket Kit.
The old girl's running lovely, but Air-Locking and/or Over-Pressurising, on today's run of about 40miles round to pick up a Bookcase (not many cars you can get a 92 inch tall Bookcase in)... I did have to remove the Passenger Seat, but that's easy enough
From cold:-
takes a while to come up to temp, always has; no 'stat
pootling along at 50-60mph its happy as Larry; I've been stopping every 10miles or so and releasing the Rad Cap, which for the most part, shows zero pressure (not good!)
Hit a Hill or start urban driving, different game, specially hills; went from a steady 75c on the flat earlier, going up a rural 1:8 with the revs around 2000-2500rpm, it got to 100c in the space of about half a mile / 1min or so
Hardly surprising coz by this time the fans aren't cooling anything much coz the Rad's airlocked and pressure is off the scale. Sometimes it'll belch a load of air in these circumstances for a good few seconds (at least 5) and you can hear the water rising. You know not to remove the cap and to get it locked down good before the water comes!!
....I stoppped in a lane half way up, switched it off a couple of mins, then re-started and helped things along by pulling the Brown Multi-Plug (it was fitted with AC originally) thus triggering the failsafe and putting the Fans on 'Fast'. Left 'em like this for about 3 or 4 miles by which time the temp had come down below 70c.
...mine has three senders on the stat housing by the way, so to the best of a my knowledge I get a 'pre-stat' (that's not there) reading
a 'post stat' reading
and there's the brown AC Sender too.
Both my spare engines have only one blue sender, and two blanking plugs. I'll be retaining all three senders, not least coz omitting the AC one would presumably result in permanent fast rad fans!
Behaved itself lovely next 10miles or so, steady 50mph-ish; til we reached town
In terms of Hoses:-
Top Hose: Warm
Matrix Feed: Hot
Matrix Return: Cool
Heater: usually cold, obviously airlocking
Rad: cool
Blooming thing, wouldn't be without it though. Does everything I ask of it, even now while its sick and progress is slow towards its cure.... other life things keep getting in the way.
Talking of progress....
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
Progress: 306 clutch was knackered (I was surprised to realise its the inner face, nearest the centre, that wears) but the ZX Clutch was in great condition, apart from being very rusty. I took just about every one of my selection of rotary wire brushes, but it cleaned up lovely. I was everso pleased to see its an LUK Brand. Jury's out on Borg & Beck, which is in the car currently, til I get it apart. Spots on it are where it'd just started to rain
Glowplugs tested, all good. This is a little 'bonus', hopefully; in that the current set are rubbish so they'd've had to have been replaced anyway. I was a bit 'tight' and robbed em from the ZX engine, rather than spend £30 on a new set of Beru's. I've made a note to bring the engine up to temp and loosen 'em all off before I start on its removal; so's if I do ever want to fix the HG and employ the lump, which runs really quite sweetly; I'll not need to worry bout removing them 'cold'.
Next job is cleaning up the 'Stat / Fuel Filter Housing if its wet (I can do that in the shed) and also removing same from the ZX engine, including testing the Stats from both.
...and outside, refitting the Injectors, with Leak Offs (possibly new ones), cleaning the top of the Rocker Cover and investigating whether I've got a leak or if the rear window was just left partially open; before I refit the Passenger seat. ...and a bonus pic, just coz I know some of you are into your trains, this is Winchcombe Station earlier today, we collected the aforementioned Bookcase from a vendor nearby. Lovely chap, ex Blacksmith; had a 'special' in his garage, 'Auntie' Rover 105 Chassis & running gear with an aluminium body he'd made from scratch! Looked a little like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang!
Engine Mount cleaned up really nicely also: anyone got any tips by the way on getting a new Rubber Dubrey in; this is my last one with a good mount. I do have a new rubber, but couldn't get the damn thing in (some years ago)
Stat Housing / Fuel Filter thingy removed from the Head. This was the first 'trouble'. One of the 'stat' housing bolts had been previously mullahed by someone, but was soon sorted after sacrificing the plastic casing and careful use of a Grinding Blade on the remaining stud. Glowplugs tested, all good. This is a little 'bonus', hopefully; in that the current set are rubbish so they'd've had to have been replaced anyway. I was a bit 'tight' and robbed em from the ZX engine, rather than spend £30 on a new set of Beru's. I've made a note to bring the engine up to temp and loosen 'em all off before I start on its removal; so's if I do ever want to fix the HG and employ the lump, which runs really quite sweetly; I'll not need to worry bout removing them 'cold'.
Next job is cleaning up the 'Stat / Fuel Filter Housing if its wet (I can do that in the shed) and also removing same from the ZX engine, including testing the Stats from both.
...and outside, refitting the Injectors, with Leak Offs (possibly new ones), cleaning the top of the Rocker Cover and investigating whether I've got a leak or if the rear window was just left partially open; before I refit the Passenger seat. ...and a bonus pic, just coz I know some of you are into your trains, this is Winchcombe Station earlier today, we collected the aforementioned Bookcase from a vendor nearby. Lovely chap, ex Blacksmith; had a 'special' in his garage, 'Auntie' Rover 105 Chassis & running gear with an aluminium body he'd made from scratch! Looked a little like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang!
Puxa
- white exec
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1992 BX19D Millesime hatch LHD
previously 1989 BX19RD, 1998 ZX 1.9D auto, 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto
and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S - x 1752
Re: 405: Major Works
Hi Puxa,
Doing this from memory, so this is what I remember . . .
A BX turbo had its expansion tank here (#19): And the Visa had one too: I fitted one here, attached to the bulkhead, and above the highest point of the engine (the cylinder head): . . . this type (old Austin-Rover vertical type, in white plastic): Bottom connection is used; top connection is just the overflow.
Plenty of similar modern versions available.
OE radiator cap was transferred to the expansion tank [or did I get one that fitted the tank, of correct OE pressure?] and a "blanking cap" fitted to the rad. Blanking caps have no pressure relief (that is now at the tank), just a large flat sealing washer: Just a single connection to the expansion tank, taken from the high point on the water outlet (thermostat) housing, doing a similar job to the one shown here, but to the tank instead of the rad top.
On expansion, coolant goes to the new tank (along with any accumulated air), and on cooling it returns to the system.
Doing this from memory, so this is what I remember . . .
A BX turbo had its expansion tank here (#19): And the Visa had one too: I fitted one here, attached to the bulkhead, and above the highest point of the engine (the cylinder head): . . . this type (old Austin-Rover vertical type, in white plastic): Bottom connection is used; top connection is just the overflow.
Plenty of similar modern versions available.
OE radiator cap was transferred to the expansion tank [or did I get one that fitted the tank, of correct OE pressure?] and a "blanking cap" fitted to the rad. Blanking caps have no pressure relief (that is now at the tank), just a large flat sealing washer: Just a single connection to the expansion tank, taken from the high point on the water outlet (thermostat) housing, doing a similar job to the one shown here, but to the tank instead of the rad top.
On expansion, coolant goes to the new tank (along with any accumulated air), and on cooling it returns to the system.
Chris
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- x 232
Re: 405: Major Works
Thanks everso Chris for taking the time & trouble
This is actually the first time I've ever studied Diagrams, so they're a bit 'Alien' to me, but I'm doing my very best to 'get over' my initial OMG that looks complicated
...and but how I will I take care of this / that / the other detail
coz quite frankly; a Header Tank would be an absolute boon.
First thing I'm going to do is work out the route of the coolant when it leaves the Rad, then consider my possibilities in terms of modern expansion tanks; perhaps with a poke about my local scrappy see if something they've got sitting there lends itself.
Any custom Hose-iery feels like a sticking point at the mo, so I won't get bogged down in that for now.
Does anybody know of a resource whereby I can view Coolant Hoses, with regard to their routing and Inner Diameters? Kind of like the Exhaust Catalogues used to be, but for Hoses..... There will doubtless be suitable ones out there, for various random vehicles; but as yet I've no idea which. I can probably also employ copper reducers if necessary.
This is actually the first time I've ever studied Diagrams, so they're a bit 'Alien' to me, but I'm doing my very best to 'get over' my initial OMG that looks complicated
...and but how I will I take care of this / that / the other detail
coz quite frankly; a Header Tank would be an absolute boon.
First thing I'm going to do is work out the route of the coolant when it leaves the Rad, then consider my possibilities in terms of modern expansion tanks; perhaps with a poke about my local scrappy see if something they've got sitting there lends itself.
Any custom Hose-iery feels like a sticking point at the mo, so I won't get bogged down in that for now.
Does anybody know of a resource whereby I can view Coolant Hoses, with regard to their routing and Inner Diameters? Kind of like the Exhaust Catalogues used to be, but for Hoses..... There will doubtless be suitable ones out there, for various random vehicles; but as yet I've no idea which. I can probably also employ copper reducers if necessary.
Puxa