crankshaft pulley

drpau · Post by **drpau** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:02

Just about to embark on replacing my crankshaft pulley and have a question, in haynes, after turning to the specified torque when tightening back up, it says you then have to tighten it a further X degrees using an angle meter. is this second step necessary as I dont have one. Also , in terms of threadlock, what is the best one to use?
Cheers
Paul

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:10

You should get by with a standard torque wrench. Bear in mind it should be pretty tight. Angle guages are not wildly expensive though. Loctite is as good as any.

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:12

Loctite do a load of different grades of threadlock, they have quite a range for industry and are as good as anybody really.

drpau · Post by **drpau** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:14

cheers for the response, there are loads of different loctite threadlocks though, 243, 577 blah blah. Im guessing it would need to be one of the stronger ones...

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:17

270 is fine

bernie · Post by **bernie** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by drpau

Just about to embark on replacing my crankshaft pulley and have a question, in haynes, after turning to the specified torque when tightening back up, it says you then have to tighten it a further X degrees using an angle meter. is this second step necessary as I dont have one.
Paul
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?

drpau · Post by **drpau** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bernie
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?
[/quote]
Thats a good point actually. Ill employ the 'oclock' method, sod the degrees method![:D]

Post by **RichardW** » 03 Nov 2004, 18:04

It's more or less 60°, which is one flat on the bolt. Put a dot on the pulley next to one corner of the bolt, and a corresponding dot on the bolt, and turn it till you have gone far enough. By which time it will be b***y tight - do not miss this step out, or you risk the pulley coming off and wrecking your engine. It's actually recommended to replace the bolt - it's pretty cheap, and comes ready loaded with thread lock.

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 03 Nov 2004, 19:13

I'd go for replacing the bolt. These have been known to snap within the crankshaft when loosening has been attempted so I think that replacement with an unstretched one would be a wise precaution.

drpau · Post by **drpau** » 03 Nov 2004, 20:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tomsheppard

I'd go for replacing the bolt. These have been known to snap within the crankshaft when loosening has been attempted so I think that replacement with an unstretched one would be a wise precaution.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ahh, its a good job work has stalled to a halt then [;)]- my spanner is too short to get any leverage on the tensioner-tried improvising with various parts but they kept getting interfered with by bodywork and the powersteering pulley. Need to get a longer one. Im amazed at how little room there is compared to my last motor. I will get a new bolt from citroen tomorrow and then restart the job on sunday I think.
Cheers for all the tips,
Paul

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 03 Nov 2004, 20:37

A friend had a timing belt fitted to her 405 by a main dealer (no names but in West Lothian area!). They didn't tighten the crankshaft bolt enough and it worked loose. End result - new engine and much egg on face by main dealer.

rg · Post by rg » 04 Nov 2004, 12:52

I found that my 405 pulley bolt was loose before it did too much damage to the keyway. I have heard of several instances of this problem. It pays to listen carefully to your engine from time to time!
Folks in our neighbourhood say "oh, your bonnet's up again - more problems?" I'm tempted to reply "no, it's because the bonnet goes up regularly that I have fewer problems".
21st century cars as "white goods". Discsss. 20 marks.
rg

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 04 Nov 2004, 14:48

Yes if you catch it in time it can be ok. The fact that there is a woodruff key is a life saver. I had a slack bolt on my 205. Caused erratic smoke emission (mentioned elsewhere) because the timing belt sprocket on the crank had just a wee bit of play in it. It is when the thing gets worn/loose enough to lose the purchase of the woodruff key that you can get big problems. Pays to keep it tight!

Philjw · Post by **Philjw** » 04 Nov 2004, 16:51

drpau,
What symptoms told you that the pully / bolt was loose? I ask as my engine has a rumbling noise when cold which sounds like it could be in the region of the bottom pully. It seems to disappear when the engine has warmed up though.

drpau · Post by **drpau** » 04 Nov 2004, 17:58

Its a light tapping most noticable at 2-3000rpm, it was diagnosed by a peugeot mech, I have a few pics of it here, http://www.boby.freeservers.com/photo.html, the rust that can be seen is thought to be the start of it breaking up. Even if it isnt I'd feel better if I changed it anyway - peace of mind when travelling at 80mph. Pulley bolt was £2.09 by the way.