Hi, the trouble is as described above - the pressure regulator is greasy with LHM leaking around its "relief screw" (M12, the one released 1.5 turn when depressurizing the system).
I never tried to remove the screw all its way to Reno, i.e. the "legendary" small ball is still supposed to be there.
Is it reasonable to try putting some gaskets under the screw head, or use some Teflon tape for its thread (same as when plumbing leaks), or...?
And, BTW, any ideas abou removing the plastic window-ette present on some BXs rear column, preventing it from breaking?
Thanx as always
BX pressure regulator "relief" screw leaking
Moderator: RichardW
Mate,
If it's leaking from there, I think the problem is much greater than something a bit of thread tape will fix.
I've had that 12mm bolt completely out & no LHM has come out.
I'd be more inclined to think it may be a leak up from it that is dripping down on it.
That bolt really only releases an internal pressure that allows the return line to bleed itself back to the tank.
Think about giving it and everything around it a really good degrease and wipe it off and then keep a close eye on everything in the area to try to identify the source as I doubt this bolt will be it.
"And, BTW, any ideas abou removing the plastic window-ette present on some BXs rear column, preventing it from breaking?"
If this is the smokey coloured plastic section on the "C" pillar that some models have, all I can suggest is that you simply paint it black. I did it on one of my cars and it looked great, but you can't use a lacquer, it has to be enamel and in my case, I used an additive. If I find a pic on the 'net of that car, I can post it if you'd care to see it.
Alan S
If it's leaking from there, I think the problem is much greater than something a bit of thread tape will fix.
I've had that 12mm bolt completely out & no LHM has come out.
I'd be more inclined to think it may be a leak up from it that is dripping down on it.
That bolt really only releases an internal pressure that allows the return line to bleed itself back to the tank.
Think about giving it and everything around it a really good degrease and wipe it off and then keep a close eye on everything in the area to try to identify the source as I doubt this bolt will be it.
"And, BTW, any ideas abou removing the plastic window-ette present on some BXs rear column, preventing it from breaking?"
If this is the smokey coloured plastic section on the "C" pillar that some models have, all I can suggest is that you simply paint it black. I did it on one of my cars and it looked great, but you can't use a lacquer, it has to be enamel and in my case, I used an additive. If I find a pic on the 'net of that car, I can post it if you'd care to see it.
Alan S
-
uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- Location: Near Leeds, United Kingdom
- My Cars: 1981 Dyane - on road all year round.
1982 GSA Pallas - on road April - September.
1997 ZX 1.9D Dimension. - x 1
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by czenda</i>
Hi, the trouble is as described above - the pressure regulator is greasy with LHM leaking around its "relief screw" (M12, the one released 1.5 turn when depressurizing the system).
I never tried to remove the screw all its way to Reno, i.e. the "legendary" small ball is still supposed to be there.
Is it reasonable to try putting some gaskets under the screw head, or use some Teflon tape for its thread (same as when plumbing leaks), or...?
And, BTW, any ideas abou removing the plastic window-ette present on some BXs rear column, preventing it from breaking?
Thanx as always
Hi czenda
If the leak has just started, the ball will be there! Putting things under the screw head is a waste of time. I disagree with Alan's description of what this device does - it is in the high pressure circuit and allows pressure into the return line when open.
So, if it is leaking, either the ball is not seating or the regulatr body is cracked.
The plastic C-post window - IMHO they are impossible to remove without breaking.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hi, the trouble is as described above - the pressure regulator is greasy with LHM leaking around its "relief screw" (M12, the one released 1.5 turn when depressurizing the system).
I never tried to remove the screw all its way to Reno, i.e. the "legendary" small ball is still supposed to be there.
Is it reasonable to try putting some gaskets under the screw head, or use some Teflon tape for its thread (same as when plumbing leaks), or...?
And, BTW, any ideas abou removing the plastic window-ette present on some BXs rear column, preventing it from breaking?
Thanx as always
Hi czenda
If the leak has just started, the ball will be there! Putting things under the screw head is a waste of time. I disagree with Alan's description of what this device does - it is in the high pressure circuit and allows pressure into the return line when open.
So, if it is leaking, either the ball is not seating or the regulatr body is cracked.
The plastic C-post window - IMHO they are impossible to remove without breaking.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hi, I suggest you take the bolt completely out and make sure the ball is still there and perhaps check the seat.I think it will sort of operate without the ball which may have been lost at an earlier service! I had to remove the small plastic window to repair some rust for a warrant. It is pretty well glued on, I managed to force it out enough to get a sharp knife under it and cut it free. I did break it though and then glued it back on with windscreen mastic.