BX TD starter motor

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 01 Nov 2004, 18:32

So is it popular for the ignition switch to go?

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 01 Nov 2004, 18:38

Had asimilar problem with a BX,either the wire was scorched or the switch was damaged/worn and was only giving 6.5 volts at the starter, I added a relay which used the damaged wire as switching current only and cured the problem.
Stewart

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 01 Nov 2004, 18:41

OK, but is the ignition switch itself known to give problems in your experience?
Also, is the switch separate from the ignition barrel, like on may older cars?
Thanks again!
ROB

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 01 Nov 2004, 18:45

Yes, it is by no means unknown on the BX.

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 01 Nov 2004, 19:15

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If your surname is "Dover" is it wise to name your son "Ben"?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I don't know if you are aware of this in OZ, but in the UK "Ben Dover" is the pseudonym of a well known maker of and star in low budget p**n films!!!
he tours the country in a motor-caravan using amateur wannabees, and his bizarre looking "girlfriend"..........................

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 01 Nov 2004, 19:22

Thanks!!! I will have to investigate the ignition switch further!
So 2 more questions:
1. Is the swich separate from the lock?
2. Is there just a multiplug that disconnects from the switch??
Thanks again guys!
Rob

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 01 Nov 2004, 19:36

Two multiplugs, emerging just forr'ard of the heater.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 01 Nov 2004, 19:48

The switch connectors (2) are underneathe the stereo, access them from the footwell by bending the plastic bit back and following the wires usually a bunch of red ones and a bunch of white ones down the column, the switch and lock can be separated once out of the column.
Stewart

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 01 Nov 2004, 19:57

Do the wires disconnect directly from the ignition switch?

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 01 Nov 2004, 20:25

Just read the post on p.1 from prm: what a donkey I am!!!
Anway, if the torx bit is removed, does this mean that when the switch comes away from the body, the springs just will ping out. The thing I do not want is to have a car that I cant move??!

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 01 Nov 2004, 21:14

No the whole thing with wires attached will pull out as far as the cables allow.
Stewart

dnsey · Post by **dnsey** » 02 Nov 2004, 01:51

It's well worth the expense of replacing a faulty ignition switch. A few years ago, I had a BX which developed high resistance switch contacts, so I stripped and repaired it. Six months later, the key jammed in the 'off' position - nothing to do with my repair, just wear. Soon afterwards, I came across someone else who had had the same scenario, so it looks as though contact problems occur at much the same time as tumbler wear. It was a real hassle removing the switch, as it has to be turned on to disengage the steering lock! Change it while it's still (fairly) easy

prm · Post by **prm** » 02 Nov 2004, 03:03

Yes Rob
You can separate the complete electrical contact switch.-- with cables, from the main body ounce the steering lock bar has been removed.
When you gently remove the black ?? plastic cover -- prise up cover tags, the springs will -- ( I hope ) remain in place. The contact for engine crank is the rear circular one. There's a small D shaped spindle notch which engages with the main body and position has to be noted for reassemble. Don't worry there's nothing to complicated inside. Seem to remember internal components can only be refitted in one location only. Might be wise to mark cable positions in relation to switch body before you dismantle as 3 rotary contacts are similar -- paired off -- red / supplies. white outgoing.
A good indication the switch contacts could possibly be faulty. Before you remove and dismantle, Push and joggle both sets of cables up into switch with key in crank position. If all other electrics are powered-up before crank position is engaged I would lay a £1-- well 50p, these contacts are faulty.
After 3 BX's with similar crank faults, this is now my first port of call.
Let us know how you get on and any problems.
Good point from -- dnsey -- Lube tumbler when refitting.
Peter

wilkobob · Post by **wilkobob** » 03 Nov 2004, 02:05

Dunno if its common, but the ignition switch on my dads bx tzd went, got worse and worse and worse and one day died. Took it out and bodged it up again (loose wire at back), still working fine. One day I might get round to welding the sub frame up and MoTing it again.

Rob Marshall · Post by **Rob Marshall** » 08 Nov 2004, 16:15

IT'S FIXED!
Just thought I'd update you kind members with the progress:
Yup! Fixed it on Saturday. I learn't NEVER trust the haynes manuel for wiring diagrams.
Basically, I on following the wires from the ignition switch, one had been cut off and bypassed!!! Connected it back up, turned the key to START, tested it to a multimeter, A CONNECTION!!!!...but still no starter motor.
So, followed the connection from the ignition switch to the fusebox (blue wires); which according to the Haynes Book Of Lies, doesn't exist, where a few blue wires disappeared into a huge mass of taped up wires. Bugger. Remove glovebox: and trace that the yellow wire from the starter goes to teh fusebox. After lots of playing around with teh multimeter, the yellow wire feeds a blue wire; follow blue wire; ah, it's broken!!!
Some idiot had tried to wire in an immobiliser, and when that was removed, he / she / it had tried to bridge the starter wre by soldering a smaller wire between: needless to say, the small wire had acted like a fuse and burnt off.
Some quick action with some wire strippers and a connector in my tool box & all was well!!
So to sum up, 2 connector belocks in engine bay cleaned: and 2 wires under dash broken!!
THANKS AGAIN!!