For a few months now, my Xantia 1.8 16v lxi has had loss of power while driving. In general everything is fine when the car is cold but has soon as it start to warm up, I've got some power drop. These drops last around 5 seconds, eg: the rpm decrease from 4000rpm to 3000rpm, and at its worst, the engine stop.
I changed the fuel filter, changed the sparkplugs, clean the air valves (which helped a bit) but it still does it. I've done an engine service but they din't find anything. Any ideas ? Please !
Xantia unsolved mystery
Moderator: RichardW
I have the same car which does something similar that I have not got an explanation for. Our two problems are not related closely enough for this to be of much help but I find it interesting that I did not have such issues when I had the 1.9TD Xantia.
Normally, the engine starts fine from a cold or hot start. However, on occasions, the engine will not keep up the revs and dies away. It will do this until you reach full operating temperature. So when you pull away and reach a junction or lights, the engine will die away. My garage thinks it is the stepper motor. the interesting thing is that the car has been doing this for over 2 years but it never gets worse or better. It happens on average once a week.
Sorry I cannot be of anymore assistance
Normally, the engine starts fine from a cold or hot start. However, on occasions, the engine will not keep up the revs and dies away. It will do this until you reach full operating temperature. So when you pull away and reach a junction or lights, the engine will die away. My garage thinks it is the stepper motor. the interesting thing is that the car has been doing this for over 2 years but it never gets worse or better. It happens on average once a week.
Sorry I cannot be of anymore assistance
How about this, we have the 1.8 16v that has had a simialr problem, I have just replaced the coil pack. If your feeling brave remove the coil pack & drill out the plastic 'rivets' that hold to top cover on. Under there is a resin channel that the coild are embedded in. Ours was cracked, thus leting in water. We did a quick fix with some new resin over the old cracked part, after that it ran fine for about 3 weeks then the problem was back & sure enough the resin had craked in a different place.
We have just replaced the coil pack because although filling the whole thing with new resin might have fixed it for good, we couldn't be sure what damage the water may have done to the coils.
The trouble with this method is that a) yours might not be cracked & b) you cannot easily repace the 'lid' part.
I'll get you some pics up tomorrow.
We have just replaced the coil pack because although filling the whole thing with new resin might have fixed it for good, we couldn't be sure what damage the water may have done to the coils.
The trouble with this method is that a) yours might not be cracked & b) you cannot easily repace the 'lid' part.
I'll get you some pics up tomorrow.
to be sure you could remove the lid of the coil pack and plug it back into the car, start the engine & in the dark you should see the coils arcing, if yours has the same problem as ours.
I have fitted the new coil packl tonight & wouldn't know to the morning if it has fixed it, but the signs are good.
SGould > that does sound very much like the stepper motor.
I have fitted the new coil packl tonight & wouldn't know to the morning if it has fixed it, but the signs are good.
SGould > that does sound very much like the stepper motor.
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ghostrider
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Pepe, check with others on this forum before doing anything, but I would suspect the TDC sensor that generates the timing info for the ignition, I had a CX once that exhibited exactly the same symptoms, changed the sensor and all was well, The sensor is normally at the flywheel end of the engine, with either 2 or 3 wires coming out of it, Haynes should give you more Info
Pete
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Pete
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Suzuki alto specifications
Last edited by ghostrider on 22 Feb 2011, 05:52, edited 1 time in total.
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Richard Gallagher
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My 2.0 16V is misbehaving a little at times with a brief misfire/cutting out, particularly when accelerating.
I interrogated the ECU numerous times but no fault codes were logged until a 'longer' cut-out occurred which then triggered the fault code of RPM (TDC) sensor, weak/intermittant signal.
I then removed the sensor from the bellhousing (it sits on top with a wire leading to a brown connector) and tested it with an OHM meter. It will only briefly show a resistance, so its presumably breaking down.
I ordered a new one from the dealers yesterday which should be in tomorrow, I'll compare the resistance readings and report back. The cost of it was just under £30. I originally ordered one from GSF at Greenford but they gave me one for a diesel which was a different shape then said they don't do them for petrols.
I interrogated the ECU numerous times but no fault codes were logged until a 'longer' cut-out occurred which then triggered the fault code of RPM (TDC) sensor, weak/intermittant signal.
I then removed the sensor from the bellhousing (it sits on top with a wire leading to a brown connector) and tested it with an OHM meter. It will only briefly show a resistance, so its presumably breaking down.
I ordered a new one from the dealers yesterday which should be in tomorrow, I'll compare the resistance readings and report back. The cost of it was just under £30. I originally ordered one from GSF at Greenford but they gave me one for a diesel which was a different shape then said they don't do them for petrols.
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Richard Gallagher
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Greg,
I fitted a new sensor but the problem still occurs, allbeit less frequently. As I'm mid bathroom fitting at present, time is at a premium and I therefore haven't had time to fiddle.
Funnily enough I did a code reading this morning and the RPM sensor again showed up as having a weak/intermittant signal. My gut instinct is that the connector inside he O/S/F wing needs a clean up, but that will have to wait until the bathroom is finished, or I lose patience and just scrap the car. (However the heated leather electric seats are more welcoming than the Berlingo ones in this cold snap!)
I fitted a new sensor but the problem still occurs, allbeit less frequently. As I'm mid bathroom fitting at present, time is at a premium and I therefore haven't had time to fiddle.
Funnily enough I did a code reading this morning and the RPM sensor again showed up as having a weak/intermittant signal. My gut instinct is that the connector inside he O/S/F wing needs a clean up, but that will have to wait until the bathroom is finished, or I lose patience and just scrap the car. (However the heated leather electric seats are more welcoming than the Berlingo ones in this cold snap!)
Hi Richard,
I found the sensor hanging by its wire, in the depths of the engine. I secured it to the thermostat block. I then cleaned out the stepping idle motor and all the breather pipes( Stempy`s advice), and bingo. No more neck jerks and idles at around 900-1000 rpm, as shown by rev.counter. Well pleased
The breather pipes were full of carbon, so I will be keeping my eye on that, in future.
Regards
Greg [:)]
I found the sensor hanging by its wire, in the depths of the engine. I secured it to the thermostat block. I then cleaned out the stepping idle motor and all the breather pipes( Stempy`s advice), and bingo. No more neck jerks and idles at around 900-1000 rpm, as shown by rev.counter. Well pleased
The breather pipes were full of carbon, so I will be keeping my eye on that, in future.
Regards
Greg [:)]
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Richard Gallagher
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